Has anyone bought the GRP bodywork set from 'Locost Limited'?? Just wanted any relevent comments/feedback on the product.

I spoke to Mark Benton of Locost Ltd and he put me in touch with there supplier as he was local to me. They are Custom Moldings on 0116 2751437. I was very pleased with the quality of there GRP. (Possible cheaper if you go direct!!!!). Rob of Custom Moulding is very helpfull and tells me they are producing all GRP Pannels in Carbon Fibre from next week. (Wish i had known this before ordering with Locost Ltd). Worth a phone call and could save you pounds.

Thanks for that Daz - will remember it when I'm ordering.

Carbon fibre?? mmmmmm!

Chris

I'm really surpised no-one has come up with the idea of producing molds off their own fibreglass parts. At the very least it would be recommended in case it got damaged, it would be easy to make more for only a few quid, and since you'd already have molds it would be easy to knock up some on the cheap for other locosters. So come on, I'm sure someone would want to capitalise on this, I would have but I'm making my own molds for my non standard, wide boy chassis.

Dunc

I'm contemplating making a full body tub, so far I'm just planning it. My intention is not to use a nose cone but a full length bonnet.

I'm planning that too, can't be bothered with all that having to take the bonnet off to check the oil. Plotted the sections on a large plotter and only have to cut the mdf and make the buck. All the stuff's bought, just need the time now.

Dunc.

Dunc What are you using to form the buck? I considered using sheets of polystyreen as used for floor insulation when building houses, they are wide and long enough to make a nose cone and bonnet. The only thing is I haven’t worked out how to get a good finish yet. I have visions of polystyreen flaking all over the place.

Buck aka plug making very interesting subject. Main problem with polystyrene is it is soluble in grp resin, also difficult to cut cleanly (hot wire is good). I would recommend mdf, comes in all thicknesses from 3mm to 25mm in 8ft by 4ft sheets. I've read 3 or 4 books about this and none of them have come up with a really good sugggestion. In any case lots of thick sealer, shaping, polishing will be needed before laying up with grp. One thing you have to watch out for is the plug flexing under the weight of the grp materials. I'm happy to swap ideas about this, I'm going to have to do some plug making myself soon
John

I'm designing my car on a 3D CAD system. I've already modelled the chassis donor parts and used the drawings to cut the tubes and plates. I've been trying to get the bonnet and nosecone to look just right and have been for the last 3 weeks. I'm using a Sierra DOHC and I'm having to fit the bonnet over the top. It just isn't looking quite right. I'm modelling the bonnet and scuttle in one go so it fits together, hopefully sweetly.

The method I'm using is to create full scale drawings of cross sections from an A0 plotter then paste them on to MDF sheet and cut using a jigsaw. Then slot the cut shapes into a lattice arrangement and using a mixture of fibreglass and expanding foam create the overall shape and finish it using body filler of sorts. Paint then polish then take a mold from this for the scuttle and bonnet/ nose.

I'm interested to hear about the 3d CAD, Dunc, and a bit impressed. I bought some CAD software but it just took too long for me to learn how to work it. The cross section technique (aka station lines) is as far as I know the only non mechanical way of transferring cad designs into 3d reality.
Does your design contain multi-plane curves?
I shall be sticking as far as possible to single plane curves, and using sheets of mdf bent over a suitable framework. This is because shaping and sanding materials such as polyurethane foam, plaster, polystyrene etc can be very difficult, especially where they vary in consistency/hardness
John

John, I'm using a CAD program called Pro Engineer 2001. It can be used to create complex assemblies and show motion of things like suspension and steering. Structures can also be analysed on Pro Mechanica. Anything can be modelled and any problems will show up on the screen before anything is cut. It also gives mass and centres of gravity. Have a look at www.ptc.com for an idea of the types of things that have been done. I like the Elise and hard to believe it's only a computer generated model it's so realistic.

My design does contain multi plane curves, but I'm still having problems getting it to look just right, I might have to just create a power bulge or air scoop to cover the top of the engine.

I'm just using the polyurethane foam to create the rough shape between the mdf, then with a sheet of fibreglass then tissue create a tougher base for the body filler. Hopefully then the shape will be better.

If any of you guys don't fancy the Jigsaw approach I can laser cut your MDF (up to 18mm thick) from your CAD files. If you're interrested drop me an email with drawings and I will give you a quote.

You know it makes sense!
merlin@locostbuilders.co.uk

Did think about getting my brother to laser cut the sections in 1mm steel but it took so bloody long to get him to cut the uprights I think I'll just have to do the mdf myself with the jigsaw. Cheers for the offer Merlin but I stay too far away from you for it to be cheap. 17 sections already drawn and ready to cut in 3 sheets of 2440x1220x6mm MDF. What would your best offer for that be? Just in case I feel like doing it again.

I need to see a drawing to quote as it is based on length/time of cut. If they are squares they are as 'cheap as chips' as Bob might say, but If they have loads of holes and shapes etc then they could get more expensive. Could cut templates form mild steel though at a fraction of the cost.

Lots of sexy curves, only square bits are to allow the sections to slot together. Plus I've no way of picking them up.