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Bottom of dash
carnut - 22/4/03 at 12:22 PM

Am i correct in thinking that sva requires there to be a radius at the bottom of the dash panel?

If so what is this radius?

Also those who have made the dash from ali how have they bent a radius on the bottom of the dash?

Viper - 22/4/03 at 12:25 PM

if the dash is made from a hard materiel (ie not padded) then it must have a radius of at least 19mm

eddymcclements - 22/4/03 at 01:26 PM

quote:
Originally posted by carnut
Also those who have made the dash from ali how have they bent a radius on the bottom of the dash?


I cut my ali dash with extra material at the bottom, clamped it to some round tube (tube one side; length of wood the other) and formed it around the tube with a soft hammer to give me the radius I wanted. I then covered the whole thing with aerosol adhesive and vinyl sheet.

You can see the dash in progress here and here.

Cheers,

Eddy

David Jenkins - 22/4/03 at 01:36 PM

Eddy,

Changing the subject a bit...

That big red cut-off switch on your dash is likely to be a problem in the SVA, IMHO.

It's all sticky-out bits and sharp edges, and it's not likely to collapse if hit by a passenger in an accident.

...but don't do anything based on my opinion - take advice!

cheers,

David

Spyderman - 24/4/03 at 11:19 AM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Eddy,

Changing the subject a bit...

That big red cut-off switch on your dash is likely to be a problem in the SVA, IMHO.

It's all sticky-out bits and sharp edges, and it's not likely to collapse if hit by a passenger in an accident.

...but don't do anything based on my opinion - take advice!

cheers,

David


Must admit I thought the same thing about the switch.

Will those clocks be ok as well?
Just thinking about the raised edges, as most dash's I have seen are padded out more.

Terry

eddymcclements - 24/4/03 at 12:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
That big red cut-off switch on your dash is likely to be a problem in the SVA, IMHO.

It's all sticky-out bits and sharp edges, and it's not likely to collapse if hit by a passenger in an accident.


Yes - I realised that and have already removed it. The round hole where it sat will be converted into a rectangular hole for the heated screen switch. Battery cut-off switch will be re-located somewhere else.

As for the clocks - I know I've read somewhere about min. radii and so on, but I've just checked in the SVA manual and the only thing I can find refers to items on the dash that project by more than 9.5mm and the need for them to detach under a 40kg force.

Does anyone have any more details regarding radii of clock bezels, and what para it is in the manual?

Eddy

GO - 24/4/03 at 02:00 PM

If you want to keep the batt-cut switch where it was then you'll prob be ok to take it out and put a rubber grommet in its place for SVA. Save's you messing about with your original design.

eddymcclements - 24/4/03 at 03:38 PM

quote:
Originally posted by GO
If you want to keep the batt-cut switch where it was then you'll prob be ok to take it out and put a rubber grommet in its place for SVA. Save's you messing about with your original design.


Yeah - it doesn't really matter as it's only dashboard mark 1. I will probably re-visit the dash layout and instrumentation later.

As you suggested, I plan to go for SVA without the screen, wipers and washers, so no need for heated screen switch as this point in time and will fit a plain blanking grommet.

Cheers,

Eddy