I've got some of the Lockwood stainless mesh to fit to various orifices and I'm trying to figure out the best way to fit the stuff.



The problem is that is has horrendous sharp edges so I think it needs an edging strip of some sort to cover them before screwing it to the bodywork - has anyone found the trick of using this stuff?

[Edited on 22-10-06 by RazMan]

most people bond it in from the inside

Stick it on from the back of the panel using P45 filler or glass matt and resin. Probably the neastest way to do it.

David

I could attach it permanently using resin & matting but I will need to be to remove it when the front splitter gets damaged (as it inevitably will at some point) so I was hoping to use self tappers into ally angle around each hole. This leaves a razor sharp edge which needs a kind of U section to cover it. Does lightweight stainless U section exist?

Not necessarily stainless, but if you look in the motorcycle section of Halford, they do an edging for screens that comes in various metallic colours.

I think it's foil backed plastic, but should do the job and look good too.

Linky

What bout rivetting on some tyrap sticky pad peices to the inside of the panel and then ty rap the mesh in place.

Excellent ideas guys!
The edging looks like it should do the job nicely and will look very bling too
The cable tie anchors would be a good removable system, although I have found the self adhesive variety invariably fall off when stuck on exterior bodywork. I might try some PU adhesive instead of the sticky pads - that should hold them.

the problem I found with the stainless mesh is it starts to fall apart if all the edges are not welded.

The stuff I've got seems to stay together really well unless you try and make some weird and wonderful shapes to get around pipes etc.

I've just made an experimental mesh panel using some edge trim I had spare - works a treat
Rescued attachment Mesh Panel.jpg

I used stainless mesh for my nose grill. I think as long as you don't make the pieces too small they should hold together. My solution to fixing was to glass some bolts on the inside of the nose hole, then bolt through the mesh and do them up with nylocs.

Also, I put trim on the edge of the hole, rather than on the mesh, as the mesh was overlapping the edges on the inside of the hole. I guess it depends on the shape/angle of the holes you need to fiull with mesh.

FYI, here are some pics of:

1. one of the bolts... you can also see the edge trim (the cut edge of the nose faces inwards in my case)

[img]http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=2006-02-17%201%20ST%20bolt%20glassed%20inside%20nose%20cone%20closeup.jpg[/ img]

2. the grill fitted



Bum! pics don't seem to be working, but you can see them in my archive

Cheers

[Edited on 22.10.2006 by Humbug]

Looks good, but maybe a smaller profile edge trim?

quote:

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Originally posted by Humbug
I put trim on the edge of the hole, rather than on the mesh, as the mesh was overlapping the edges on the inside of the hole.

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An admirable piece of work though - I was pondering the grille for my MK (I have an MK grille, but it's no good for SVA and everyone's got one - too common!).

Now I know the way forward!

I had thought of using this type of mesh, but figured it would come apart when cut due to being intertwined, rather than expanded metal

[Edited on 22/10/06 by StevieB]

quote:

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Originally posted by StevieB
An admirable piece of work though - I was pondering the grille for my MK (I have an MK grille, but it's no good for SVA and everyone's got one - too common!).

Now I know the way forward!

I had thought of using this type of mesh, but figured it would come apart when cut due to being intertwined, rather than expanded metal

[Edited on 22/10/06 by StevieB]

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If I stand on the other side of the room I can just about see it !!

Nice job ...... just a bit erm .... big

just a thought would the mesh hold behind the gap on an MK bonnet with a bulge with windscreen adhesive as i may have some left over from sticking the wings on or does it need to be a more secure fixing and this is a daft question!!!, Cheers

Should be ok - it's not under any stress. Sikaflex might be better - you can get it fairly cheap on ebay (just got my new tube in the post this morning in fact)

Definitely go with Sikaflex (or any other PU adhesive) Silicone sealant is not as strong - plus you can't paint it. PU can be 'sculpted' to a degree too, to make spacers and fill-in strips.

dont be cheeky ha ha
how do you make them smaller

quote:

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Originally posted by ian furness
dont be cheeky ha ha
how do you make them smaller

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Much better

Hi Raz

Looking at that pic reminded me that someone on here (hellfire?) posted a detail a while ago where they made a stepped wood former the same shape as the hole in the panel, and then embossed a joggle on the edge of the mesh so that when fitted into the hole cut in the panel the outside face of the mesh sat flush with the top surface of the panel, if you can see what I mean

the difference in the visual result was amazing.

Regards

Fred W B

[Edited on 24/10/06 by Fred W B]

Yes I remember the thread, but iirc he used expanded alloy mesh which is fairly easy to form into shapes. The stainless stuff broke my wire cutters so I've got no hope of joggling it!