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Bonnet Catches
907 - 25/2/07 at 01:19 PM

Hi All. May I pick your brains please?

What's the options for side bonnet catches? What have you used? (And where did you get them)

I would appreciate your ideas as the next job is the engine side panels, and I'd quite like to sort out the catches before I make them.

They would need to be SVAable.

Many thanks,

Paul G Rescued attachment IMGP1663-crop.jpg
Rescued attachment IMGP1663-crop.jpg


flak monkey - 25/2/07 at 01:22 PM

If you want the neat solution you can use flush dzus fasteners, they are a pain to line up, but look the biz in my opinion.

Otherwise you can use the rubber over centre catches as supplied by most of the manufacturers. I got mine from RS...will look out the number for you.

RS stock number: 288-8464

David

[Edited on 25/2/07 by flak monkey]


Deckman001 - 25/2/07 at 01:25 PM

I think Dzus would suit best, would be a crime to spoil them lines !!!!!!!!!!

Jason


Ketchup - 25/2/07 at 01:26 PM

hi, i got these :-

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=12816

from rally design, really easy to fit, and def sva friendly


macnab - 25/2/07 at 01:33 PM

wow look at the panel gaps! incredible


worX - 25/2/07 at 02:03 PM

definitely Dzuz....
(sounds like an advert!)
but as above it would spoil your shut lines with the other ones...


rusty nuts - 25/2/07 at 02:33 PM

Shame to have to fit anything Paul. Dzuz or the Aero type fittings ? How about no visible securing device?


worX - 25/2/07 at 02:41 PM

You could try something really trick and invisible using two (normal) bonnet release fixings, one runnind down each side, that is some sort of slide release?
You could ensure it wouldn't fly off in the wind by doubling one back so the release cable itself is being operated the wrong way, thus opposing the other one???
just an idea for you (not sure it would work, but once again, the shut lines deserve something a bit special...

Steve.


RazMan - 25/2/07 at 03:11 PM

Aerocatches? Rescued attachment Aerocatch template.gif
Rescued attachment Aerocatch template.gif


stevebubs - 25/2/07 at 03:24 PM

Take a look at the westfield locking kit...should give you some ideas on how to do it without spoiling the lines....


907 - 25/2/07 at 05:45 PM

The bonnet has a double fold and this needs to be clamped to the chassis in the direction
of the green arrows, as my red G clamp does in my first post.
The scuttle & nose have a closed cell rubber strip that the bonnet needs to be pulled down onto.

Would the Aero or Dzus catches do this? (any pics?)

The rubber ones look good but a tad expensive at £28 + for 4.


Thanks very much for the replies so far.

Paul G

[Edited on 25/2/07 by 907] Rescued attachment B-to-SP-joint.jpg
Rescued attachment B-to-SP-joint.jpg


rusty nuts - 25/2/07 at 05:48 PM

The Dzuz catches won't pull the bonnet down to the chassis but the Aerocatches will . Also I think they are available in polished ally?


907 - 25/2/07 at 05:54 PM

I do have these but the Protex ones (No1) won't pass SVA, and 2 & 3 won't pull down.

I don't mind bits & bobs showing on the car because as it is it looks very plain.
A splash or two of colour (even black) takes the blandness away IMHO.

Cheers

Paul G Rescued attachment fasteners-003-s.jpg
Rescued attachment fasteners-003-s.jpg


rusty nuts - 25/2/07 at 06:00 PM

The Aerocatchs that Razman has shown look very neat . If I ever get around to making the new bonnet thats what I will use . They are also adjustable to some extent.


RazMan - 25/2/07 at 06:40 PM

I used them on my car and they are adjustable so you can compensate for wear later on. Although they are only available in black plastic they can be flush or surface mounted. I bonded them to the inside surface so that fasteners were not required (another option) They will not really pull a gap closed but will hold it firmly once closed - so you give a little hand pressure and then flip the catch closed.



[Edited on 25-2-07 by RazMan]


Gaz 1977 - 25/2/07 at 06:45 PM

you have been busy, Nice one


907 - 25/2/07 at 07:02 PM

quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
I used them on my car and they are adjustable so you can compensate for wear later on. Although they are only available in black plastic they can be flush or surface mounted. I bonded them to the inside surface so that fasteners were not required (another option) They will not really pull a gap closed but will hold it firmly once closed - so you give a little hand pressure and then flip the catch closed.



[Edited on 25-2-07 by RazMan]




They look very cool.

I imagine they have a "cool" price.


Cheers

Paul G


RazMan - 25/2/07 at 07:12 PM

Not cheap but well worth it imo
Tifosi sell them
Non-locking: £35.25 Locking £39.45

Oh and you can paint them body colour as I did and they blend in nicely. Maybe alluminium paint in your case Paul?

[Edited on 25-2-07 by RazMan] Rescued attachment Aerocatch.jpg
Rescued attachment Aerocatch.jpg


907 - 25/2/07 at 10:40 PM

Thanks very much for posting those Raz.

I take it that's a price for one, so I'll give them a miss if I may.

Looking forward to seeing your car one day. Perhaps at an E/A meet. Love it.
I tried to get the mag on Saturday morning but they had sold out.
You must be dead proud.

Cheers

Paul G


I did have a look on the Westfield site Steve.
Found them.
There was a price but no pic, so I did a Google image search and found Westies with all sorts fitted.

Thanks everyone

Paul G

[Edited on 25/2/07 by 907]


RazMan - 25/2/07 at 11:04 PM

quote:
Originally posted by 907
I take it that's a price for one, so I'll give them a miss if I may.



That's for a pair!

quote:
Originally posted by 907

I tried to get the mag on Saturday morning but they had sold out.
You must be dead proud.



Don't panic, it appears in the April edition .......... and yes, I am


907 - 25/2/07 at 11:40 PM

quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
quote:
Originally posted by 907
I take it that's a price for one, so I'll give them a miss if I may.



That's for a pair!

quote:
Originally posted by 907

I tried to get the mag on Saturday morning but they had sold out.
You must be dead proud.



Don't panic, it appears in the April edition .......... and yes, I am




Sorry Raz (I'm going blind)

Thought that was pricey for one.

I miss read the post by mistergrumpy as well then. (What Kit Car thread)

Am I right in thinking April edition should be out in mid March?

I'll look out for it.

Atb

Paul G


RazMan - 26/2/07 at 12:13 AM

quote:
Originally posted by 907
I miss read the post by mistergrumpy as well then. (What Kit Car thread)

Am I right in thinking April edition should be out in mid March?




It's Which Kit Car? and will hit the shops in mid March ..... oh God I'm such a tart


907 - 26/2/07 at 12:22 AM




It's Which Kit Car? and will hit the shops in mid March ..... oh God I'm such a tart



In Clare, my local little town, the paper shop is right opposite the bakery.

Paul G


907 - 27/2/07 at 10:06 PM

Hi.

Been thinking. Oo er.


I'm trying to keep it simple (read cheap).

I had a play tonight with a c/s M8 screw.

If I make 4 lugs and weld them to the chassis, drill, tap M8, and countersink to 20mm dia,
then when the screws are tightened it pulls a c/s in the ally sheet.
This would act as a locating device when refitting the bonnet.
The screws can be done up with a 10p piece once the c/s is formed.

What do you think? It saves a shed load of beer tokens.

Cheers

Paul G Rescued attachment M8-Bonnet-fixing-s.jpg
Rescued attachment M8-Bonnet-fixing-s.jpg


Deckman001 - 27/2/07 at 11:12 PM

Nice and Locost, but could rattle loose me thinks ??

Jason


RazMan - 27/2/07 at 11:39 PM

Yep, that's why Dhuz fasteners were invented


Peteff - 28/2/07 at 12:15 AM

Would a 2p piece do it, we don't want to go too mad do we ?


907 - 28/2/07 at 12:30 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Would a 2p piece do it, we don't want to go too mad do we ?






Tut tut. Don't you know anything Pete?

By using a 10p with it's aluminium/nickel content I will lower the electrolytic corrosion factor.
Just imagine the problems I'd have with copper on ally. I would age harden before reaching my prime.



Paul G


Gaz 1977 - 28/2/07 at 09:02 AM

they look good, I cant see any problems with the addition of some PTFE tape

You do remember your engine is a LOTUS, getting to the engine quickly and often will be essential.

Is the ten pence to call the RAC.


David Jenkins - 28/2/07 at 09:19 AM

You'll be OK with a 2p coin - most of them are made of steel these days, with a thin copper covering!


Fred W B - 28/2/07 at 11:19 AM

I like, except for the potential for losing the screws if you take them out at a filling station or whatever. Suppose you could keep some spares in the car though.

cheers

Fred W B


rusty nuts - 28/2/07 at 05:52 PM

Would the screws have a big enough surface area to spread the load without pulling through the ally? Perhaps some button headed stainless screws might be better and still be SVA friendly?


MikeRJ - 28/2/07 at 05:58 PM

This is an idea I had a while back for a "hidden" fixing (sorry for abusing your Paint creation!).

Essentialy you mount a couple of pins into the chassis rail, and a strip with keyhole cutouts is used to lock into a recess machined into the pins. This can be moved by a lock mechanism from the outside. There are a some issues to solve, how do you retain the strip in place for starters (a couple of slots cut in it and an a screw, washers and spring and nut to keep it under tension maybe).

By suitably forming the strip around the keyhole it could be made to pull the bonnet down as it engages with the pin.


907 - 28/2/07 at 09:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Would the screws have a big enough surface area to spread the load without pulling through the ally? Perhaps some button headed stainless screws might be better and still be SVA friendly?



Hi Rusty

The idea behind using counter sunk screws is that the c/s would be a positive location into the c/s of the lug.

On first assembly the bonnet would be clamped in position and the screws inserted and the ally c/s formed
when tightening the screws for the first time.
On refitting it must go back in the same place.

As for pulling through, when I did the test one it took a spanner on the hex shaft of the screwdriver to c/s the ally sheet.

The trouble with dome or pan heads (and Dzus) is you would need a clearance hole that would allow the bonnet to move
if the screws were not really tight.




I'm going to dismiss the vibrating loose issue.

Vibration???? From a Lotus engine/????




I like your idea Mike. Going to think about that one.


Atb

Paul G


caber - 28/2/07 at 11:15 PM

Great British sports Cars have SVA rubber pull down catches on Ebay at £10 a pair ATM, I went for this.

I do like the screw in solution, a bit of old inner tube rubber on the receiver surface may be enough to prevent them rattling loose.
You may be able to get an M5 star washer to go up the thread of the screw to save it falling out of the panel when you unscrew it, if not try some UNF star washers about the same size.


I wish I had seen this or thought of the pull in countersink for my dashboard before I fitted it with cups!


well done!

Caber