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brushing pva??
Dale - 12/12/07 at 07:39 PM

After finally fixing my buck for my rear fender- it stuck very nastily to the glass last time( the part was salvaged though), I am ready to do the glass for the second fender. It is repaired and waxed now and I purchased a gallon of pva instead of just going with mulitple coats of wax.
Is just brushing it on ok, and the suggested coats to make it better??
Being that its just a buck to make the original part overtop of it does not have to be perfect but it would be nice for it to come off properly this time.
Thanks
Dale


Syd Bridge - 12/12/07 at 07:56 PM

YOU CAN NOT BE SERIOUS!!! As McEnro says!

After all the palaver, and you go and buy PVA.

Just put more wax on, and don't bugger up the surface with streaks and hollows, which WILL be the result of that horrible, rotten, spawn of the devil they call pva.

The only half useable pva worth considering is white, and is used as glue.

Cheers,
Syd.


prelude1980 - 12/12/07 at 07:59 PM

i used some blue PVA bought off ebay and had perfectly smooth finish, i did put 3 coats on as i've never used it before.


Syd Bridge - 12/12/07 at 08:24 PM

OK, use a sponge roller and go for the golf ball effect.

Cheers,
Syd.


prelude1980 - 12/12/07 at 08:31 PM

just a question, PVA is as thin as water isn't it?

i just wanna check before i make a t%t of myself


twybrow - 12/12/07 at 08:34 PM

Syd its not as bad as all that, but I would agree that for this project, it shouldn't be needed. What wax are you using and how many coats? Are you leaving it for at least a couple of hours before buffing each layer?

If in doubt, run a little experiment and see what works!


scotty g - 12/12/07 at 08:34 PM

you can put PVA on with soft cloth for a better finish than brushing but waxing will give a better finish.


balidey - 12/12/07 at 08:40 PM

I always use a small square of sponge and dab it on. If using it over large areas then we sometimes use an atomiser too, but still dab with the sponge, much easier to see where you've been than compaired to a brush.


Dale - 12/12/07 at 10:13 PM

I am using a honey wax for mold release. I have tried leaving it for a couple of hours or just letting it haze for 20 minutes . I have also considered using a spray gun to put it on (pva). Being that the buck side is going to be the inner fender the finish is no big deal- the outside will be typical bodyfill and sanding.
Dale


twybrow - 12/12/07 at 10:36 PM

How many coats and what is the surface made from you are trying to release from?


Dale - 12/12/07 at 11:20 PM

6 coats of wax over primer that was sanded to 320.
I just picked up an orbital polisher as I have been doing it by hand.
Will see how it works or if I will use pva.
Dale


twybrow - 13/12/07 at 12:05 AM

Put another 2-3 coats on using a sightly damp sponge. You should be able to test how well the surfcae is released using a strip of masking tape. I have seen tape peel off under its own weight, but not with wax! I would avoid using an orbital or polisher, as you can make the surface too hot, and remove too much wax from the surface - but others will much prefer to polish than hand apply. Let us know how it works out for you. Good luck.


Syd Bridge - 13/12/07 at 11:13 AM

If you are going to use the plug side as the inner, then just cover whole sodding thing in brown celluloid packing tape, Then a couiple of waxes. Save yourself a lot of work.

Poly resin will not stick to the packing tape normally, and definitely won't with a coat of wax. Geez, you don't even have to polish the wax, just wipe it on and let it dry. How simple can it be?? Same with epoxies.

As for the wax...put it on, let it dry, buff with a machine preferably( I've ALWAYS got better results that way), then allow a couple of hours to harden before more wax. Of course, you have to keep the polisher moving about. I've seen the results of bozos who can't understand simple directions!
The machine gives a better spread and helps to harden the wax.

I don't know where you are working Twybrow, but their methods could do with bringing up to date, from what you write on here.

My per diem is not too excessive, if they want someone with more than 35 years experience, and currently doing R&D with fibres you've not even dreamed about.

Cheers,
Syd.

[Edited on 13/12/07 by Syd Bridge]


Dale - 13/12/07 at 01:48 PM

Thanks for the help- I did the glassing enough to get it formed and removable last night- finished up around 1am est. Only issue was keeping the garage around 20 deg cel when its -5 to -10 outside.
I will try and pull it off later today.
Thanks
Dale


Dale - 13/12/07 at 07:59 PM

Pva certainly made it easier- but my buck work needs to be a bit more detailed. I had a couple of small parts come off the buck, where the last layers of plaster were very very thin and probably pinholed.
Maybe I just missed a couple of spots with the pva or wax. Either way no big deal as its easily fixed if I have to use the buck again.
I need to sort out the mounting and then make the inserts to fill the gap between the trunk and the inner fender. Once that is done I can reinforce it from the inside and put in the inner fender and tail light backing.
Thanks for the help
Dale Rescued attachment fender2.jpg
Rescued attachment fender2.jpg