Hi, I am booked for a Power Commander tuning rolling road session with my R1 powered MNR next week.
What do I need to look out for? What do I need to keep an eye on when the guys are working on the car?

I am thinking about: Where should the car be strapped down? Chassis or wishbones? Front, rear? Anything required for the airbox / air filter? Should I wash it and re-spray new? etc...

Thanks for any suggestions, and sorry if it has been discussed before, or if these are questions from a numpty...

Cheers!
Gergely

wash an respray won't make it any faster
strapping points is up to them to sort out

er, just make sure its running well i guess.

when they are strapping it down, ask then why they use that point for strapping, if they can't answer your question then you know they are guessing!

Pump tyres. Check engine oil and diff oil. Check cooling system for leaks, working rad cap, overflow bottle and top up. Make sure engine breather works and catch tank is fitted. Fill up with fuel.
Dumping oil/water on the rolling road floor or having to rush out for a can of petrol are best avoided and make you look like a numpty.

What to look out for when going on a rolling road session?

A loud bang!

No but seriously, rolling roads push engines to their limits, so make sure of all the above checks

and check they dont alter the calibration of the machine for the final power run!
Amazing how many do that, after all its in their interest to show a nice power/torque gain.
And of course a pinch of salt! Remember tyre pressures can make a significant difference to readings (harder+higher IIRC) so use the correct ones and do a before and after standing 1/4 to see what difference has been made.
(me, cynical about RR figures. Surely not )

Make sure that the car is sitting on the rollers properly so that the tyre is not rubbing and digging a channel into your nice new toyos (guess how I know)

a new clutch and engine....rolling roads are hard on engines. I know of three blow ups........recently.

I had mine done recently and the results are like driving another car.

Cooling. Top of the list would be make sure you have enough cooling. They'll have a big fan or should have.

Strapping down. The guy who did mine only strapped down the front but locked it down very well with chocks and straps. He said he only strapped the back if he was getting wheel spin (checked for that on the first few runs). Without rear straps he said he got more reliable/repeatable readings. Given the race cars he tunes (inc PorscheCup cars) I was happy to take his word for it.

Make sure they spend time getting the power curve sorted and not just trying to get more HP. The R1 like most bike engines has a dip in the curve and getting rid of that has made a massive improvement to the drive. Her spent all day on mine patiently working through the whole map. We had to stop several times to let the car and the RR cool off.

The outputs vary from one RR to another and one day to another, so the numbers are just for boasting. You should get an improvement at the top end but the most noticable will be mid range. I'd have been happy with half as good a result as I got.
adrian

Besides the above checks on the general health of the car for the most important thing was the before and after driveability of the car.

My tuner was confident enough in his abilities to let me take the car out for a half hour drive after the session to test the results before taking my money.

He was paid in cash in full upon my return and I will use him again in the future.