RK
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 02:48 AM |
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Wavy ally in bonnet
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ey6MBdrjmYlK17Mfo4OvGg?authkey=Gv1sRgCLfsoZrNyoKG4QE&feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6dhF6D_KJDlIvAiYbOZ7xg?authkey=Gv1sRgCLfsoZrNyoKG4QE&feat=directlink
Is it possible at all to get rid of these little waves on the edge of ally after you cut it?? Trying to hammer out one, produces another.
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nib1980
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 06:46 AM |
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Can't see the pictures but theres a man on here called TrevD and he is the master with ali, maybe send him a U2U and he can advise
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AdrianH
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 06:59 AM |
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I think very difficult to stop with hand cutters.
I had better results with air shears, even my cheep ones from Aldi. If you hammer it it will make it worse as you thin out the metal and it has to go
somewhere!
Are you putting edge bead on, as that may help hide the edge somewhat?
Notice you left enough to fold in the side which is what I forgot to do, DOH.
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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thunderace
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:37 AM |
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find a body shop guy he should be able to sort it for you.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 09:36 AM |
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them snips are useless,use the ones that look like scissors or make a template from lining paper,transfer that to the ally and score both sides with a
blade and bend/snap,easiest done when the sheet is still flat 
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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minitici
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 09:46 AM |
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As above - those snips aint good.
Best with a set of Gilbows.
Then when cutting do not cut right to the points of the snips, just part way then advance the snips.
That way you should not get the dents, nicks and ripples.
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Madinventions
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 10:12 AM |
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One trick I've used to get rid of wavy lines is to work your way along the cut edge with a good vice and clamp it as hard as possible. This
flattens out the ripples without the point impact of a hammer, but I realise that this will be a bit awkward with such a large part! You can then go
along each edge with some Scotchbrite (or a brillo pad etc) to remove the sharpp edges from the cut.
I use my el-cheapo air shears from Aldi to cut large parts as these don't ripple the edge. Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but not much use in
your case since you've already made the cut.
Try the vice trick, or use some edge beading to tidy it up.
Ed.
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 11:49 AM |
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you have to use monodex sheers or a just file the edge
http://www.skygeek.com/ats-js12.html
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/stylespilotshop_2067_1194313712
[Edited on 25-8-09 by mangogrooveworkshop]
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splitrivet
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 12:04 PM |
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Monodex are good but put a couple of layers of insulation tape on the foot otherwise you'll scratch the ally, plus you'll get the dreaded
w@nkers cramp.
If you've got a compressor air shears are bestest.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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RK
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 12:13 PM |
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The next time I'll see if I can find air shears. Thanks for the advice people!
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Humbug
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 02:15 PM |
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I used a jigsaw to make the cut, then folded the edge over in large bits of wood clamped tight in a workmate (=bench, not a bloke at the office  )
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RK
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| posted on 26/8/09 at 12:04 PM |
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My bottom is starting to hurt reading that. I suppose I can put some rubber trim on the edges to hide it a bit. Too late to fold anything over.
It's going to be either painted or vinyled white anyways, which should make it less visible as well.
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907
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| posted on 26/8/09 at 01:15 PM |
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I'm surprised it doesn't dress out.
With a flat plate held on the under side and a "flat" hammer and "light" taps 99% should come out.
The remainder cleans up with wet & dry on a block.
A normal ball pein (speeling) hammer is not flat and puts saucers in the surface and stretches it.
HTH
Paul G
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