femster87
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| posted on 9/7/10 at 09:01 AM |
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painting chassis
I know there has been a lot of debate about how to go about this, but alot of varying opinions.
am i ok to use red oxide followed by chassis black.
if yes how many coats of each?
also is it on to bond ali body panels on then rivet in few areas?
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James
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| posted on 9/7/10 at 11:02 AM |
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I went for the cheap and cheerful option on mine.
2 coats of red oxide and then 2 coats of Homebase exterior black gloss. I figured you don't really see the chassis rails anyway so it
doesn't matter too much!
On exposed areas of the chassis I did *a lot* more than 2 coats of each though. Up to 5 in some of the worst areas IIRC.
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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skodaman
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| posted on 9/7/10 at 03:14 PM |
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You can still get Davids cellulose zinc based primer on ebay. That's what I've used and will finish it it satin black cellulose.
Don't leave it in bare metal for any longer than necessary as it'll go surprisingly rusty even in a dry garage. As James said it
doesn't really show so brush painting and lots of coats is the order of the day. I've done this with motorbike frames and at least one of
them still looks okay after 25 years and it was outside for a most of this time.
I didn't consider powder coating because apart from not being very locost it's not so easy to touch up and from what I've seen of
it it's not as rust resistant as a metal primer and a topcoat. Also you're bound to damage the coating while putting the car together.
Skodaman
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MikeR
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| posted on 9/7/10 at 03:24 PM |
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i spoke to a specialist powder coater in Coventry.
They don't recommend powder coat for outside use - its not designed for it.
They recommended shot blast, zinc prime and then a proper top coat or they would powder coat if i insisted.
Hopefully in a few weeks I'll ready to get the chassis painted. I'll go with blast and zinc prime. I'll then add another layer of my
own primer (probably some form of red oxide) and then a few coats of exterior black gloss.
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iank
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| posted on 9/7/10 at 03:55 PM |
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Gloss mini roller is much easier, quicker and a better finish than brush painting. The lots of thin coats is better than a thick one bit of wisdom
applies.
Powdercoat comes off in sheets if water gets under it via a scratch, crack or stonechip so a well applied set of paint layers is preferable IMO - and
easier to repair.
Getting it gently blasted and sprayed up with a good quality primer is a good start.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 9/7/10 at 09:17 PM |
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Having spent the winter stripping, shotblasting , repainting and rebuilding my car it's something I don't want to do again . I used POR15
from Frost's auto restoration followed by their Hardnose paint as recommended by a few people of here
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smart51
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| posted on 9/7/10 at 09:24 PM |
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I've used POR15 but found in places it has peeled off in sheets. They say that even a single drop of moisture can contaminate the metal. I
degreased the new metal and then primed with their metal ready. I'm told that a corroded finish gives better adhesion. It does seem tough
though if you can prep your chassis well enough.
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