nick-york
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posted on 1/11/13 at 10:27 PM |
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sealant ???
Hi ! Is sikaflex the best sealant for putting between aluminium and the chassis before i put the rivets in ?cheers. Hope I've spelt it right !
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big-vee-twin
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posted on 1/11/13 at 10:53 PM |
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Yes or you can use tiger seal.
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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unijacko67
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posted on 1/11/13 at 10:57 PM |
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I used a good quality clear silicone and its worked great.
http://www.kittenkitcar.co.uk
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BenB
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posted on 2/11/13 at 06:51 AM |
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I think there are various types and grades of sikaflex but yes, it's good stuff.
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FuryRebuild
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posted on 2/11/13 at 09:19 AM |
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I'd steer away from the adhesive side of sikaflex. It's tougher than no more nails. There may be a time when you need to remount your
body. It will come off in pieces if you've used adhesive.
Clear silicone as mentioned above is a good plan.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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onenastyviper
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posted on 2/11/13 at 10:07 AM |
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aren't the panels bonded to provide more structural strength?
"If I knew what I was doing then it wouldn't be called research would it?...duh!"
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adithorp
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posted on 2/11/13 at 10:24 AM |
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If you want the sealant to be structural then use a PU (polyurethane) sealant, Sykaflex, Tigerseal, etc. Remember though, if it's sticking
panels to chassis, it's only as strong as the bond between your paint/powder-coat and the steel. It will make removal very difficult though.
If you just want it to seal the panel to keep moisture out then use a silicone sealant.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 2/11/13 at 10:52 AM |
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DON'T use silicone, it's solvent is acetic acid which will eat your ally and rust your chassis in very short order
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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iank
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posted on 2/11/13 at 10:57 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mark Allanson
DON'T use silicone, it's solvent is acetic acid which will eat your ally and rust your chassis in very short order
+1 use builders sealant if you don't want adhesive not sanitary. The neutral cure is also stronger than acetoxy cure iirc.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-builders-silicone-clear-310ml/83710
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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40inches
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posted on 2/11/13 at 10:58 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mark Allanson
DON'T use silicone, it's solvent is acetic acid which will eat your ally and rust your chassis in very short order
The best Silicon for just sealing is Silicon P, this is an inert sealer used for Polycarbonate roofing panels.
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adithorp
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posted on 2/11/13 at 11:30 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mark Allanson
DON'T use silicone, it's solvent is acetic acid which will eat your ally and rust your chassis in very short order
What do you call "short order"? I've just had a removable ally panel off that I'd sealed with silicone 6-7 years ago. When I
peeled the sealant off it was still shiney underneath.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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