carnut
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| posted on 22/4/03 at 12:22 PM |
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Bottom of dash
Am i correct in thinking that sva requires there to be a radius at the bottom of the dash panel?
If so what is this radius?
Also those who have made the dash from ali how have they bent a radius on the bottom of the dash?
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Viper
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| posted on 22/4/03 at 12:25 PM |
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if the dash is made from a hard materiel (ie not padded) then it must have a radius of at least 19mm
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eddymcclements
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| posted on 22/4/03 at 01:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by carnut
Also those who have made the dash from ali how have they bent a radius on the bottom of the dash?
I cut my ali dash with extra material at the bottom, clamped it to some round tube (tube one side; length of wood the other) and formed it around the
tube with a soft hammer to give me the radius I wanted. I then covered the whole thing with aerosol adhesive and vinyl sheet.
You can see the dash in progress here and
here.
Cheers,
Eddy
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 22/4/03 at 01:36 PM |
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Eddy,
Changing the subject a bit...
That big red cut-off switch on your dash is likely to be a problem in the SVA, IMHO.
It's all sticky-out bits and sharp edges, and it's not likely to collapse if hit by a passenger in an accident.
...but don't do anything based on my opinion - take advice!
cheers,
David
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Spyderman
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 posted on 24/4/03 at 11:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Eddy,
Changing the subject a bit...
That big red cut-off switch on your dash is likely to be a problem in the SVA, IMHO.
It's all sticky-out bits and sharp edges, and it's not likely to collapse if hit by a passenger in an accident.
...but don't do anything based on my opinion - take advice!
cheers,
David
Must admit I thought the same thing about the switch.
Will those clocks be ok as well?
Just thinking about the raised edges, as most dash's I have seen are padded out more.
Terry
Spyderman
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eddymcclements
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| posted on 24/4/03 at 12:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
That big red cut-off switch on your dash is likely to be a problem in the SVA, IMHO.
It's all sticky-out bits and sharp edges, and it's not likely to collapse if hit by a passenger in an accident.
Yes - I realised that and have already removed it. The round hole where it sat will be converted into a rectangular hole for the heated screen switch.
Battery cut-off switch will be re-located somewhere else.
As for the clocks - I know I've read somewhere about min. radii and so on, but I've just checked in the SVA manual and the only thing I
can find refers to items on the dash that project by more than 9.5mm and the need for them to detach under a 40kg force.
Does anyone have any more details regarding radii of clock bezels, and what para it is in the manual?
Eddy
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GO
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| posted on 24/4/03 at 02:00 PM |
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If you want to keep the batt-cut switch where it was then you'll prob be ok to take it out and put a rubber grommet in its place for SVA.
Save's you messing about with your original design.
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eddymcclements
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| posted on 24/4/03 at 03:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by GO
If you want to keep the batt-cut switch where it was then you'll prob be ok to take it out and put a rubber grommet in its place for SVA.
Save's you messing about with your original design.
Yeah - it doesn't really matter as it's only dashboard mark 1. I will probably re-visit the dash layout and instrumentation later.
As you suggested, I plan to go for SVA without the screen, wipers and washers, so no need for heated screen switch as this point in time and will fit
a plain blanking grommet.
Cheers,
Eddy
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