NS Dev
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 02:08 PM |
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Ally bonnet, 18swg or 20swg?
just wondering whether to do my bonnet in 18swg or 20swg NS4?
20swg will be easier to form and lighter but will it keep its shape ok?
Thinnest I have used before is 18swg so i have no idea!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Peteff
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 02:18 PM |
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Mines 16g half hard as per book.
I'm going for 18g next time. We did some side panels in 20g and they were fragile to say the least. I don't think they were up to road
use, you only had to look at them and they dented and rippled.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Liam
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 04:15 PM |
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NS4 is a 5xxx series alloy and quite bitchin to form. I've just attempted a bonnet in 18swg and it was a nightmare. Kinda turned out ok though
but needs tweaking. You'll need all your strength, plus all someone elses, and a convenient lamppost. Still at least when kids try and sit on
it they'll just bounce off!
I was advised to use 1050 half hard (which is pure ally) which is much much easier to form. I had a go with the 18swg NS4 just cos i had it. Might
re-do my formed panels at some stage in the future in 1050 and do a better job...
Liam
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Trev D
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 06:18 PM |
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20 swg ns3 thats what mine is. Regards Trev.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 20/9/06 at 12:10 AM |
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Thanks folks.
PS saw you and yr car at Donny Trev, rather nice!!!!, was going to stop for a chat but you looked a bit busy already!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/9/06 at 07:52 AM |
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My bonnet's 16swg - now that took some bending! Got the sides done on a mate's industrial bending machine.
Nice and strong though...
David
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procomp
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| posted on 20/9/06 at 08:10 AM |
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Hi i8g half hard cant remember the code either 1051 or 1052 i am shure you will know the correct code.
The only place the bonnet becomes a bit of a problem when done is where you will have to cut it arond the exhaust and remove the bottom return edge
but a couple of small vertical studs that stick up from the chassis through a hole in the retun edge either side of the cut out should do the
trick.
Also for the carbs cut as a hole rather than cutting down through the return edge.
Ps did that template fit any good.
cheers matt
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NS Dev
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| posted on 20/9/06 at 12:14 PM |
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as far as I can tell yep thanks Matt.
to check properly, I need to remove my temporary fuel press gauge which currently sticks up in the way of everything in its temporary position on the
end of the rail!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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