Ian Pearson
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| posted on 12/9/03 at 09:31 AM |
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Flush Rivets
Anyone out there any experience flush rivets?
I want to use them on a couple of panels, and I'm not sure what sort of counter sink I need, and where to get the rivets from.
TIA, Ian.
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Mix
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| posted on 12/9/03 at 10:11 AM |
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Use them all the time in the aircraft industry, sorry I can't help with a supplier but can say that they come in a variety of countersink
angles, the most common being 90 degree and 120 degree so suggest you find your supplier and rivets before you source the countersink,(s). Desoutter
manufacture the countersinks, a search of the web should throw up a local supplier.
Mick
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 12/9/03 at 11:30 AM |
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just be careful when using them on thin panels. The obvious problem is that the panel must be thicker than the depth of the rivet head. Hence it is a
good idea to go for a more shallow angle. a lot of the rivets used in the aircraft industry are 100 degrees for just this reason.
Also because of the nature of the rivet it forms a far weaker joint.
[Edited on 12/9/03 by protofj]
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 12/9/03 at 03:51 PM |
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pop do a countersunk rivet, and you should be able to get hold of them from the usual sources, depending on how many you and what size you need I can
get some for you. There's no problem with weakness of the joint, if it can hold the skin of an aircraft together at mach 2 I think it should
hold on a car panel, the problem comes when people countersink the hole too much, if you can see a ring around the rivet head then you've gone
too deep. I know screwfix do the countersinks (got a couple myself) and you'llneed a 120 for the pop rivets.
All my external panels have been put on with countersunk cherrymax rivets. They ain't coming off.
Chris
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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thekafer
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| posted on 12/9/03 at 10:39 PM |
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counter sunk rivets
[quote][i]Originally posted by Ian Pearson[/i]
Anyone out there any experience flush rivets?
I want to use them on a couple of panels, and I'm not sure what sort of counter sink I need, and where to get the rivets from.
TIA, Ian. [/quote]
I do alot of riveting. I modify helicopters for a living(I'm hoping to become a prostitute to regain my self respect)and use cherry max rivets
quite a bit.
Heres some p/n's that may help:
#1. CR3212-4-5 This is a 100 degree counter sunk rivet with an aluminum shank and steel stem.the-4 refers to the diameter expressed in increments of
32ths of an inch.
The -5 is grip length (total thickness of materials)expressed in increments of 32ths of an inch.
Therefore the rivet above is 1/8" diameter with an 5/32" grip length.
so modify the number as required.
For thin skins .032" and below this p/n is what you want;
#2. CR3215-4-5
The head on this rivet is smaller for thin skins.
Cherrymax rivets are really strong particularly in shear but are alot more pricey than common automotive style rivets (P/N# ccpq-4-5).
Hope the info helps!!  Fetch
[Edited on 13/9/03 by thekafer]
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labotomy...
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Mix
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| posted on 13/9/03 at 07:38 AM |
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Just a word of warning!
If you think there is ever the chance you may wish to unrivet a panel don't use cherry max or cherry lock countersunk rivets. Yes they are very
strong in shear, mainly due to the mandrel, (the bit of metal that breaks when you 'pop' it) being made of steel harder than anything less
than cobalt drill bits. They also have a small collar around the mandrel which locks it in place preventing it being punched through.
Good rivets, (though you may need to get assistance from the Hulk to put them in using hand pliers), but almost impossible to remove without damage to
the surrounding structure.
Mick
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 13/9/03 at 08:26 AM |
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Thanks for your help guys.
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