Chris Leonard
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posted on 12/10/03 at 11:46 AM |
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After spray painting
I finished spraying my fibreglass yesterday. Not too bad after three attempts. I have a couple of sags in it and a few specs of dust (I presume). Any
tricks on getting rid of the sags. Is it a matter of wet and dry and respray or could I use a fine cutting compound to get it out. Finally what now?
leave it for a month then polish, or t cut it then polish
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rell
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posted on 12/10/03 at 12:43 PM |
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sorry bad news mate you realy need to get rid of the sags and rippels in the panels before you spray it
you can get what you filler primer you spray it on (probably need a good few cotes) then spend the next century flating it back. hard work but needed
to get that quality finish.
if your spraying in a garage and you are geting bits in the paint you need to get as meny bit out of the garage as you can to start with even after
that you will still get bits in it if you are geting lots of bits in you need to put a good thick coting on it, Especially round the edger's
or you tend to polish throw to the primer.
I spry the edger's first then spray the rest of the panle so the edger's have a thicker coat.
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David Jenkins
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posted on 12/10/03 at 02:37 PM |
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rell,
I think Chris means the sags you get in the paint when you've put too much paint on one area.
I'd like to know how to fix that, as I've just spent the last couple of days painting my scuttle, and I have just one small sag to get rid
of (I certainly don't want to rub back & respray!).
Apart from 1 small sag and one dust speck, it's come out pretty well, so I'm feeling pretty smug!
Anyone know how long I should leave cellulose paint before I cut it back with rubbing compound?
cheers,
David
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rell
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posted on 12/10/03 at 03:34 PM |
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sorry my mistake.
flat off with some wet and dry 1000 grit i tend to do this all over the car gets rid of eney big bits then hit it with some compound
i would leave it for about a week befor compounding it.
but if thay are bad flat them back and respray.
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Markp
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posted on 12/10/03 at 04:14 PM |
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I used cellulose paint, after spraying I left it 2 weeks before touching it, I rubbed it down with 1200-1500 wet and dry until it was all one level, I
then used a hardish cutting compound and rubbed that on and off, then came the auto glym paint renovator and finally the auto glym polish.
Very good result, the longer you leave it the better, it helps the paint set which is a god send when it comes to rubbing down edges.
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Peteff
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posted on 12/10/03 at 05:07 PM |
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Sags or runs?
We in the U.K. call them runs, sags is the Merkin term for them. If there is a paint shop near you they may sell an item specially for the job,
something like a run razor or similar for cutting the tops off them and making it easier to rub them level with the rest of the finish. If you catch
them while not quite set and you have a steady hand you might be able to take them off freehand with a sharp edge.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 12/10/03 at 09:29 PM |
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Runs, sag, and curtains are varying degrees of the same thing. Petes gadget is a denibber, they cut down the run and usually everthing else as well!
Use 1500-2000 wet&dry, on a dead flat block until the run has disappeared, then restore the gloss with Farecla G3 cutting compound - easy. Do the
same with the dirt inclusion.
because you have runs I am sure you have enough paint on the panels to do this, however, if the run is in the primer, you will cut back into this then
you will have to do a local repair. Basically key the surrounding area with scotchbrite and put down some more paint, flat with 2000 and cut it
back.
Celly is so forgiving you can get away with murder, if you cock it up, just do it again
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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David Jenkins
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posted on 13/10/03 at 07:56 AM |
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Now that the paint's pretty much hardened off I'm please to say that the one paint sag is trivial and hardly noticeable, and the odd
specks in the paint came away with a careful thumbnail.
The sag/run is in the topcoat, not the primer, so it should be easy to fix (if I even bother).
I'm having trouble getting rubbing compound of a known grade - the only one I could find in ordinary shops is CarPlan's Green Line stuff -
anyone know what grade that is?
The good thing is that it's been a long time since I used cellulose in an aerosol can, and I'd forgotten how forgiving it is - easy to
apply a nice wet spray, knowing that it's going to flash off in seconds - the junk that's sold in Halford's cans these days is a
real pain to use. It was made extra-easy because I'd bought a specially made up can in a local paint factors, and the spray came out in a
really nice vertical fan instead of the usual 'broad brush' squirt. Paying a bit extra makes the difference!
cheers,
David
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stephen_gusterson
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posted on 13/10/03 at 08:38 AM |
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I think you will find that the stuff in car shop spray cans is usually acrylic and not cellulose at all
atb
steve
[Edited on 13/10/03 by stephen_gusterson]
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David Jenkins
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posted on 13/10/03 at 10:35 AM |
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...which was why I was glad I bought my can from a car paint factors - I saw the tin of paint used to fill my aerosol! Acrylic is fine in a paint
shop, but difficult to use from an aerosol in a cool garage.
I haven't seen cellulose aerosols in a general-purpose car parts shop for years... I guess it's the 'control of solvents'
legislation.
cheers,
David
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Chris Leonard
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posted on 14/10/03 at 10:02 AM |
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Thanks everyone, I shall wet and dry it and then use a cutting compound. (after leaving it a week
Cheers Chris
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macspeedy
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posted on 14/10/03 at 04:18 PM |
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two other tings i would like to mention, never hang a panel up to spray it you asking for runs, also buy tack cloth use it go out the room for 20 mins
then use it again, look for small particles in the air i sruggled for ages flating back and t-cutting back to gloss no need if you remove the dust, if
you have a percistant problem then wetting the floor with a spray bottle keeps the dust stuck to the floor added extra safety! hope that is of help.
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Peteff
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posted on 15/10/03 at 11:18 AM |
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I like to spray outside if at all possible and I find that if you leave it till it has hardened off a bit you can brush the flies off lightly with a
soft cloth and then T-Cut their feet out later. If you have a gazebo this will protect from pigeons as the chances of getting bombed before the paint
has gone off are, in my experience, rather higher than winning the lottery with a £10 stake.
yours, Pete.
P.S. I find that yellow or brighter oranges tend to attract more insects than darker colours, which may or may not affect your choice of car colour.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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David Jenkins
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posted on 15/10/03 at 11:30 AM |
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...guess who's just painted his scuttle in extremely bright yellow.
Got away with it, though - no winged blemishes!
David
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stephen_gusterson
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posted on 15/10/03 at 05:39 PM |
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yellow is an absolute bloody insect magnet.
my wife and son had yellow clothes on hol and got loadsa insects on them.
At one of the kit shows this year I observed a yellow / green seven with masses of flies on the yellow bits and nowt on the green bits.
I discounted yellow for my car at that point.!
atb
steve
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Browser
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posted on 15/10/03 at 10:57 PM |
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All I can say after reading the above is thank god for gelcoat!
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rell
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posted on 16/10/03 at 07:38 AM |
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The only thing with gel cote is that you can't get it perlesent
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Browser
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posted on 17/10/03 at 12:00 AM |
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Pearlescent shmearlescent, after reading about painting hassles I coudln't give a monkeys knackers! Besides, pearlescent paint looks good at a
standstill or when moving slowly, neither of which plan to have my car doing much of when it gets built! Also, flash paint doesn't make the car
go any faster which is where I intend the money to go!
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rell
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posted on 17/10/03 at 07:49 AM |
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painting is not as hard as every bodys making out take your time don't try to put to much on at once and you'll have a nice paint job. the
trick is to put it on even.
anyway will every body think im a poser is i have a perl paint job lol
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