splitrivet
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| posted on 5/12/03 at 02:42 PM |
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Ali for body ??
Hey up guys just about to do a deal on some Ali for me bodywork and dont have me book to hand. I was thinking of 1.2 mil half hard or does any one
have thoughts on this.
Any one who has done thier body how many 8 by 4 sheets will I need.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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kingr
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| posted on 5/12/03 at 02:51 PM |
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1.2 mm should be fine, half hard may be a little tricky to form around the boot area, but it has been used by other people with success.
3 sheets if you're not making a bonnet, 4 if you are.
Kingr
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nick205
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| posted on 5/12/03 at 03:02 PM |
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1.2mm should be right, I have used some 1.5mm and it can be a bit tricky to bend.
Nick
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 5/12/03 at 03:42 PM |
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half hard is i think the 'std' alu term used for the correct stuff.
i think its also called 3003 grade.
If you get the wrong type, like david jenkins did, it will be a bas%^ard to bend regardless of thickness.
As I like to make life as hard as poss, I bought 2mm for my car.
Its EASY to bend.
You just need to use the soap and blow torch annealing method.
Use the search tool on my postings for soap and blow torch, and it will come up. Im not typing all that in again!
atb
steve
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 5/12/03 at 03:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
If you get the wrong type, like david jenkins did, it will be a bas%^ard to bend regardless of thickness.
I think the grade I used was 3030 - excellent for the flat panels (but I did have access to an industrial sheet bender!) and it will be nice and
tough.
For the rear panel I eventually used 1.2mm general-purpose grade, which worked very well.
David
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splitrivet
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| posted on 5/12/03 at 05:07 PM |
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Thanks fellas, knowing my luck tho I'd better get 10 sheets as Im bound to balls up 6.
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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RoadkillUK
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| posted on 5/12/03 at 06:52 PM |
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I emailed this to Baco in Leeds ....
Hi, I'm looking for some aluminium sheet and am of limited (read none) knowledge of aluminium.
I need to panel the sides of my car and make a bonnet from aluminium but
firstly need to source a low-cost supplier. Also I need to know what sort
of aluminium I need, I have an idea of what I need but need confirmation
before buying.
The only information I have on the type of aluminium I need is as follows
... 1.2mm (18swg) grade 3003 'half hard' ... I hope that makes some sense to
you as it makes little to me 
Could you also let me know the cost of the aluminium?
And this is the reply I got ....
I think the aluminium sheet you are after is 3103 H14, (half hard).
We stock this at 1.2mm thick, sheet size 1805mm x 1350mm.
Price would be £35 a sheet, plus £13.50 carriage.
I've only had time to panel 1/2 of one side but it seems to be nice and easy to bend.
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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craig1410
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 12:21 AM |
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Guys,
I got a quote from Aalco (www.aalco.co.uk) for 5251-H22 of £24.78 per sheet for a 2500x1250x1.2mm sheet with Vinyl coating. This was based on an order
of three such sheets and I think this was pretty good.
Cheers,
Craig.
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Peteff
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 10:50 AM |
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I used 16g half hard in 2mtrx1mtr sheets. They were not coated and cost about £18 each. I did bonnet, sides and back panel with 3 sheets. If I had
used it for the panel behind the seats I would have needed another one. I had enough off cut to do the tunnel top.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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splitrivet
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| posted on 8/12/03 at 10:02 AM |
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Righto then, I'll get it ordered today this guy quoted me £25 per sheet 8x4,so the price seems right.its a sheet metal place who put a call into
us that his phone system went down, so it looks like a deals, on we forget his bill he forgets ours,plus maybe a bit of guilotining and bending.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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Spyderman
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| posted on 8/12/03 at 02:20 PM |
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splitrivet,
Better make it a round dozen!
That way I can come and borrow some of the leftovers!
Terry
Spyderman
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craigdiver
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| posted on 11/2/18 at 09:18 AM |
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is the half-hard stuff now called 1050 H14? (looking to order some 1.2mm for rear tub & sides)
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 11/2/18 at 01:50 PM |
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Back from the dead post new record??
If any....
This has to be....
This may help
http://www.aluminum.org/sites/default/files/TEAL_1_OL_2015.pdf
1050 is unalloyed aluminium... (see pages 7 and 33 (labeled 1 and 27 in PDF document)
Half hard is referred as the amount of hardening undergone trough forming.
You may revert this by annealing.
See: https://www.advent-rm.com/information/glossary.aspx?definition=tempers
HTH
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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craigdiver
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| posted on 11/2/18 at 05:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Angel Acevedo
Back from the dead post new record??
If any....
This has to be....
This may help
http://www.aluminum.org/sites/default/files/TEAL_1_OL_2015.pdf
1050 is unalloyed aluminium... (see pages 7 and 33 (labeled 1 and 27 in PDF document)
Half hard is referred as the amount of hardening undergone trough forming.
You may revert this by annealing.
See: https://www.advent-rm.com/information/glossary.aspx?definition=tempers
HTH
Ah but I did do a search for the info before posting ;-)
Without me having to ‘revert this by annealing‘ (which sound like may add some time onto the job and not DIYable!) or going to metal university and
learning what annealing and common aluminium alloy composition is, what am I asking for when I order the 1.2mm for my rear end & sides?
Thanks :-) (and thank you for your help, much appreciated)
[Edited on 11/2/18 by craigdiver]
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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jps
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| posted on 11/2/18 at 07:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
[
Ah but I did do a search for the info before posting ;-)
[Edited on 11/2/18 by craigdiver]
If everyone did that there would be a lot less threads!
Basically you will not get a single 'right' answer to your question. My local supplier complicated things even more by using
'old' terminology so I bought a sheet of 'NS4' for my panels. It seems this is the same as 5251. And I got 1 mm not 1.2 which
bent easily but seems sturdy now it's bonded and riveted in place. This was their recommendation on the basis their main business was
fabrication, esp building trailers.
Some people have used 1###, some 3###, some 5### and some have randomly salvaged alu sheet from various places so probably don't know what
they've used. The final point applies to my floor panel, it's 3mm alu which was formerly a pub sign, I have no idea what grade or hardness
it is though!
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 12/2/18 at 03:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
quote:
Originally posted by Angel Acevedo
Back from the dead post new record??
If any....
This has to be....
This may help
http://www.aluminum.org/sites/default/files/TEAL_1_OL_2015.pdf
1050 is unalloyed aluminium... (see pages 7 and 33 (labeled 1 and 27 in PDF document)
Half hard is referred as the amount of hardening undergone trough forming.
You may revert this by annealing.
See: https://www.advent-rm.com/information/glossary.aspx?definition=tempers
HTH
Ah but I did do a search for the info before posting ;-)
Without me having to ‘revert this by annealing‘ (which sound like may add some time onto the job and not DIYable!) or going to metal university and
learning what annealing and common aluminium alloy composition is, what am I asking for when I order the 1.2mm for my rear end & sides?
Thanks :-) (and thank you for your help, much appreciated)
[Edited on 11/2/18 by craigdiver]
Not that reviving an old thread is bad, actually it helps as it keeps related information in easy to digest packets...
One of my favorite threads is Show me your panel (or something) because of this.
Well back to subject...
Reverting hardness may add a step but not necessarily time, as bending annealed sheet will be easier and results may be better...
Annealing is also DIYable, you just need a blowtorch and soap or a sharpie marker.
Most likely is that the material your stockist has will lead you to what can be done...
The series of the aluminium gets important when you have a set of specs to work to.
In most of our cars, alu sheet is mostly cosmetic and therefore grade and corrosion resistance and othter characteristics are not that important.
And last, but not least, my answer may not be useful for you, but it may help someone else come 2033 when this post comes to life again..
In my case, Back in the days I ordered ali sheet, I still don´t know grade or hardness.
The 1.6 mm sheet is fairly easy to bend so I´m ASSuming softo or half hard at most.
My floor is overkill at 2.4 or 3 mm, and I would think that it is hardened through the process of dimpling it -it is diamond plate.
Best regards-
AA
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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steve m
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| posted on 12/2/18 at 05:14 PM |
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Just to add another equation into the pot, when I built my locost in 1997-99, that does sound like a long time ago!
I went to my local metal supplier and ordered 1.2 mm sheets in 8x4 FEET (I like mixing up measurements
I was asked what type etc, and I just said medium, and that's what I got, it wasn't so soft it will dent with a finger pushing against it
or to hard to bend round the lamppost across the road
It works, no matter what it is,
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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MadMaxx
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| posted on 18/2/18 at 06:55 PM |
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Hi, I'm going to laser cut the panels for my Fury rebuilding project. Is it necessary to use anodized alu panels? And going for commercial
names: Peraluman or Anticorodal?
My re-building diary:
http://www.llcc.it/YetAnotherForum.NET/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13448
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