StrikerChris
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| posted on 7/12/10 at 01:58 AM |
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Looks great,and I wouldn't worry about the gearing at all,mines probably similarly geared and I can't change gear quick enough in mine
with about 100 less bhp than that thing,and it still has the ability to plod under the radar on the tickover in 5th through curtain twitching
villages.looks to be a serious weapon that!
Hmmm,time to twiddle the boost.....
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ashg
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| posted on 7/12/10 at 09:19 AM |
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looks great but its gonna bite you if your not careful 
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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Lightning
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| posted on 7/12/10 at 12:33 PM |
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That is absolutely fantastic.........Superb job. Just shows what can be done 
Steve
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Irony
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| posted on 7/12/10 at 12:53 PM |
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That looks superb mate and I can't believe how you've cracked on with it. Wish I could get on with mine so fast. I seem to spend 70%
time researching how stuff works, 20% buying and 10% actual build.
Couple of questions. The red switches on the dash. Where did they come from, they look like CBS and are they IVA proof with the guards?
The rubber grommets are a great touch going through the scuttle, Where from?
What battery are you using?
Cheers
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franky
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| posted on 7/12/10 at 01:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Irony
That looks superb mate and I can't believe how you've cracked on with it. Wish I could get on with mine so fast. I seem to spend 70%
time researching how stuff works, 20% buying and 10% actual build.
Couple of questions. The red switches on the dash. Where did they come from, they look like CBS and are they IVA proof with the guards?
The rubber grommets are a great touch going through the scuttle, Where from?
What battery are you using?
Cheers
The switch's on the dash were from ebay, LED's in the end of the switch, £13 for the 4 including coveres. About 1/4 of the price of
CBS. Not sure about IVA thats why i've fitted the U-bolts, CBS sell these for £6+vat each, these were £1.70ish each off ebay.
If you can't find them drop me a U2U and i'll dig out the links for them.
Rubber grommets are from a hardware store and cost about 10p each. Screwfix do them as do B+Q.
Battery is a PC680 and it copes more than fine with the engine.
[Edited on 7/12/10 by franky]
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franky
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| posted on 7/12/10 at 01:44 PM |
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switch
Heavy Duty 20Amp LED Toggle Switch with Red Flip Cover on eBay (end time 12-Dec-10 20:10:57 GMT)
ubolts for guards
5mm x 80mm U BOLT & PLATE STAINLESS STEEL 316 on eBay (end time 04-Jan-11 13:32:43 GMT)
hope this helps.
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franky
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| posted on 22/12/10 at 10:54 PM |
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A little milestone reached ;D
My propshaft arrived from dunning and fairbank a few days ago.....
Adapter to replace the rubber ring
Today I was brave enough to go into the frozen depths of the garage and fitted it. Once I had double checked all the bolts were tight about 5 times I
drove it up through the gears on axle stands  Zero strange noises, hardly any vibration(Straight six smoothness!). All leeks/weeps are sorted,
handbrake setup and zero brake drag at the rear. It also allowed me to test the speed sensor for the stack dash, it seems to work perfectly off the
rear diff flange bolts.
I've now got to make a bracket to hold the sensor in place however it shouldn't be too bad as there's plenty of places to mount a
bracket.
The replacement rear lights arrived too, i'm glad that the old ones wouldn't fit(they protruded too far and hit the tank) as the
replacements look a lot better, they're led and a little smaller than usual in carbon mounts but keep the original look of a '7'.
I've only loosely put one in place. Oh the other rear wing has been fitted too.
Its now sat back on its wheels so I can drive in and out of the garage 100000 times when the snow clears! I'll have to get plenty of fuel in
it.
All being well it might be finished next year :
Still A huge list of things to do but it is getting smaller....
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franky
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| posted on 21/1/11 at 03:50 PM |
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Bit more of an update.
Main things done are all lights and ABS sensors wired in properly. Speed sensor bracket sorted, Brake M/C heatshield made and mounted(I covered this
in a heat reflective matting).
I had a right faf with the Lambda sensors, I extended the wires then realised that they weren't working, after much head scratching I had
pulled a wire out of the heater circuit on both : So yes I am an idiot. Luckily I had some spare and fitted these, readings were then spot on
after I cleared the fault codes. I've still not decided where to route the wires, they're cable tied to the cage at the moment.
I've fitted the front cycle wings and the IVA requirement indicators, I think i've got them both level!! I decided to bolt these on
instead of using silkaflex as it makes them easy to remove.
With the nosecone I've added a NACA duct that feeds directly to the air filter and made it so that the nose can hinge forward, this makes it so
much easier to get in at the front and stops me damaging it moving it about all the time.
On the 'interior' i've mounted my Christmas present which should cover the rear view quite well and changed the rocker switch
location and mounted the traction control adjuster. I've also added a 12V socket so i've a charge point and a power point.
This coming monday its having an emissions check at my village garage to see how that side of things are, then sort out the side impact mounting to
clear the exhaust.
Today though i've noticed a lumpy idle that i'll have to sort before monday and a fluid leak on the brakes which will need some
attention.
Getting there though.
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franky
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| posted on 4/3/11 at 02:09 PM |
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Another little update. I've got the boot floor mounted in and all wires underneath. I decided on a slightly different arrangement for around
the filler neck. It just means it can all be removed(everything on rivnuts). Also added a L-shaped bar across the back to give it slightly more
ridged.
Headlight bars were cut and re-welded dropping them by a decent amount. I quite like the new look ;D
Side impact bars have been modified so this is the first time they've been on with the exhaust too.
Most obvious thing is that the bonnet is now bent/fitted. Not 100% happy with the fit yet but its looking more complete now.
Things you cant see is a 100% working traction and launch control system. A bracket made to stiffen the steering shaft. The lambda sensor wires now
go across the bulkhead, All the intake system is complete and the 'interior' is just about complete. I've also trimmed/fitted all
the rear/side panel joins, i'm now happyish with these.
Still lots of little bits to do and some bigger ones too! Looking like a car now too.
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richardh
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| posted on 4/3/11 at 04:47 PM |
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looking decent for sure
Time for a change!
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dlatch
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| posted on 4/3/11 at 05:42 PM |
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thats coming along great dying to see how it performs once completed
its going to be a animal when you want it to be i think
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beaver34
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| posted on 5/3/11 at 10:55 PM |
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Looks great, what traction control is it? Race logic?
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franky
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| posted on 5/3/11 at 11:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by beaver34
Looks great, what traction control is it? Race logic?
yep, its the racelogic system
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franky
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| posted on 9/7/11 at 05:18 AM |
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Well time for a bit of a running report, my plan is to get about 600ish miles on her then sort out a list of 'niggles'.
450+miles done now. High points are:
No breakdowns yet!
30+MPG, upto 35-7mpg on a run.
Great fun to drive, very very stable.
Gearing seems to really suit the car with the amount of power and revs you can use.
Grips like you wouldn't believe in the dry, good in the monsoon rain we've been having but it has let me know who's boss a couple
of times
Brakes are great(I fitted mintex m1144 pads in the front).
Ride quality is really good now i've turned it back from how hard I had it set.
Its a little on the quick side, had a couple of 0-60 runs with Peter in the car on a slightly damp road. Came up in 3.7seconds(IIRC). Should be
good for a 3.5 once I learn to launch it properly. Also that was pulling off in 1st. Pulling off in second would save a gear change at the expense
of abusing my clutch. Real world speed is fantastic, makes for safe overtaking at all speeds. The engine is very very smooth.
My list of niggles stands at this so far........
Slight exhaust blow causing one of the lambda sensors to show an error code, I need to remove and reseat the exhaust to sort this.
Small oil weap from one of my cooler unions, a bit of PTFE tape should help here.
Brakes need another bleed to try and remove a bit of softness at the start of the lever travel.
Seat runner needs to come out as I'd prefer to sit the 15/20mm lower without it.
I get terrible fuel surge below half a tank, I've a spare fuel pump i'm going to fit to see if that helps, I think it should stop till
there's about 7ltrs left. I'll use a t piece on feed and return to see. It doesn't help that the m3 evo engine runs at 5bar fuel
pressure. Hopefully the extra pump will work as its a cheap solution, failing that a swirl pot set-up might have to be fitted or i'll look at
the cost of a sumped+baffled tank. This might work out as the most cost effective solution as I can sell my pumps/tank. Fingers crossed the cheap
fix will do.
I'm going to fit the original under headlight indicators back on and bond my cycle wings to the wingstays as even using the bolt on and
threadlock method does not seem to work very well.
The last and most strange observation is my running temps....... unless 'going for it' the car seems to run a little cool, water temps at
about 78 deg on the open road, i've a 75mm core radiator fitted which might be causing this.
I've a few other ideas though.... I take the water temp from a hose that comes off the water pump to the radiator. This will be about 5deg
cooler than the actual engine temp so it may be perfect. Also the fact when I'm making progress it gets a little warmer might been again that
its running spot on. I'm going to measure the engine temp/rad temp/hose temp to compare what they all say.
Feels strange to have it on the road and not to be 'building it' anymore :
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ashg
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| posted on 9/7/11 at 06:28 AM |
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well done. as for the water temp it will show quite a bit lower in the rad circuit. really you should be taking it off the head or at least the
thermostat housing before the thermostat. where you have it now is the coolest part of the system.
next time your down south you will have to stop by and come out for a run with the skcc lot. most of us are within 15-20min drive from gkd.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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franky
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| posted on 9/7/11 at 06:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ashg
well done. as for the water temp it will show quite a bit lower in the rad circuit. really you should be taking it off the head or at least the
thermostat housing before the thermostat. where you have it now is the coolest part of the system.
next time your down south you will have to stop by and come out for a run with the skcc lot. most of us are within 15-20min drive from gkd.
Cheers Would be cool to go for a run with the skcc too.
I've a nice blank next to the factory water temp sensor that I need to get an adapter for, either that or just work out how many Deg cooler my
temp sensor position reads. I'm pretty sure its about 5deg cooler.
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adithorp
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| posted on 9/7/11 at 08:36 AM |
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Agree you need to put your temp sensor on the engine rather than in the hose if you want accurate readings.
Not sure what you mean about the fuel pump. Are you planning to use 2? Fuel starvation is caused by surge of fuel in the tank meaning that the pick-up
isn't submerged. Only a baffled or sumped tank (or a swerl pot set-up) will help unless the pick-up is very badly placed (where moving it might
help). Is your pump below/level with your pick-up? They don't like sucking and prefer to be gravity fed. If not they can cavitate the fuel
causing air bubbles in the line which can feel similar to starvation.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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franky
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| posted on 9/7/11 at 08:46 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Agree you need to put your temp sensor on the engine rather than in the hose if you want accurate readings.
Not sure what you mean about the fuel pump. Are you planning to use 2? Fuel starvation is caused by surge of fuel in the tank meaning that the pick-up
isn't submerged. Only a baffled or sumped tank (or a swerl pot set-up) will help unless the pick-up is very badly placed (where moving it might
help). Is your pump below/level with your pick-up? They don't like sucking and prefer to be gravity fed. If not they can cavitate the fuel
causing air bubbles in the line which can feel similar to starvation.
The car runs a a tank designed on the standard set-up(OEM in tank pumps), when not cornering the the pump will train the tank dry, the pump mounts
in one side of the tank and a balance/return in the other side. Using 2 OEM pumps was a fix by the Americans on banked tracks so even under cornering
where the fuel can move away from a pickup on one side it'll get picked up by the other one. I know its not the best solution but it may be a
cheap one.
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adithorp
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| posted on 9/7/11 at 09:25 AM |
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Ahh! That should improve things then.
One problem you might have is the pumps don't like being run dry (but it should only be briefly dry) and they might not last long. I'd be
looking at a tank with a sump as a long term solution.
My new one picks up from the bottom of the 1/2lt sump and the return goes back into the sump. I get no starvation even when on hairpin bends running
almost empty. The tank itself isn't baffled, though I would have spec'ed it that way if it'd been made to measure (I bought second
hand), just the sump entry has a big lip and although the sensor varies wildly in corners indicating fuel surge, the pick-up isn't effected.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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franky
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| posted on 9/7/11 at 09:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Ahh! That should improve things then.
One problem you might have is the pumps don't like being run dry (but it should only be briefly dry) and they might not last long. I'd be
looking at a tank with a sump as a long term solution.
My new one picks up from the bottom of the 1/2lt sump and the return goes back into the sump. I get no starvation even when on hairpin bends running
almost empty. The tank itself isn't baffled, though I would have spec'ed it that way if it'd been made to measure (I bought second
hand), just the sump entry has a big lip and although the sensor varies wildly in corners indicating fuel surge, the pick-up isn't effected.
Don't suppose you've any pics do you?
The good thing about the OEM pumps is they both have level sensors, so when one goes up the other goes down, stops the gauge hardly moving at all
when cornering.
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