plentywahalla
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 11:04 AM |
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Nev ... Enough said.
Rules are for the guidance of wise men ... and the obedience of fools. (anon)
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plentywahalla
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 11:04 AM |
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Nev ... Enough said.
Rules are for the guidance of wise men ... and the obedience of fools. (anon)
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Neville Jones
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 11:27 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RK
My issue with the poly resin is that it STINKS, whereas the epoxy doesn't. Enough for me to pay more for it, especially in winter.
And thanks, Ash, for that vid, for those of us who can't attend Dickens' events (but wish they could.) He really knows how to put it in
the normal person's language, as it were.
[Edited on 18/2/12 by RK]
Poly resin may stink, but there isn't much H&S documentation to adhere to. Pretty much, don't drink it, rub it in your eyes, or on
your skin.
Whereas, the epoxy hardeners are some of the most carcinogenic chemicals known to exist.
I work with epoxy often, and give it great respect. Always wear gloves and cover my arms, and wear a mask. Try not to get too close to the hardener,
or breathe the vapours from it.
I have a couple of large composites companies nearby, and the number of cases of strange cancers and dermatitus in employees is staggering.
Then again, there's a military/civil aviation radar company just down the road, and the number of weird cancers at that place makes you think.
Cheers,
Nev.
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RK
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 02:34 PM |
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Great. Thanks for the information. Back to the drawing board.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 02:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RK
Great. Thanks for the information. Back to the drawing board.
I'm pretty much living by that motto at the moment, the amount of 'not a clue' that I have is astounding!!
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RK
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 02:42 PM |
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If people are honest and open about things, most are totally baffled by half of what goes on around them. This car thing just puts a fine point on it,
I think.
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b14wrc
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| posted on 23/2/12 at 02:53 PM |
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Hi Slimy38,
Would you not want to consider laying the carbon on a flat piece of class and vacuum bagging it? I plan to make my side panels in this way.
I intend to lay up the carbon and possibly two layers of bi-ax glass, (all one hit) my preferred resin material will be Vinylester as you get improved
mechanical properties compared to PE but reduced cost over Epoxy. Plus, there is scope to use the resin infusion (RI) method…. Though East coast
composites are selling a PE RI resin at the moment… any one used this?
RI will help get that ‘naked’ look you’re after. Pin holes will be the biggest problem if you don’t vac it.
Nev is right though, I always thought the smell of Styrene was bad, but actually it is less harmful than what you can’t smell or see in Epoxy. I got
Ampreg 22 hardener on my face once and had to go home from work as I came out in red sores! Was painful.
I have to agree, rubbing things down never gets a perfect finish, I made a Carbon bonnet for my friend’s Evo 4 a few years ago and it went wrong, we
‘flow’ coated it with resin and flatted it back, which sort of fixed it, but you could tell where you sanded through the layers of resin, I learnt
that that wasn’t the best way, possible, but not the easiest and possibly won’t give that superior look your after.
I will post photos in the future of my panels, working on a plug at the moment for a component for the locost…….
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/2/12 at 04:19 PM |
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Unfortunately the plan I had wouldn't have worked with flat panels, there would have been a few curves in it so I couldn't use glass.
Having said that, I don't think the buck would have been that difficult to get flat.
Having looked further into it, I don't think my problem is going to be the 'upside down' method of working. Having seen a GTA body
in person (thanks Mac!) it did bring home the enormity of the task. I think making body panels just in fibreglass is going to be the first challenge,
given the physical size of a GTA or Fury type bonnet. Progressing from there to getting a carbon fibre skin to work on such a large area is going to
be virtually impossible regardless of the method I use.
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johnH20
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| posted on 5/3/12 at 07:35 PM |
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I am a novice in the car field but what the OP is trying to do sounds quite like building an old style custom surf board - and I've bult a few
of them ( not boats I admit ). SP systems made ( and I think still make ) an epoxy resin system for this purpose including an epoxy flow coat that
with the right skills ( sadly I don't have them ) could produce a truly perfect surface finish. Needs a lot of wet and dry to achieve but I have
seen the professional results. Resin is crystal clear too.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 30/4/12 at 04:05 PM |
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OK, I've made the base panel for this 'experiment', but I just wanted to ask the opinion of the more experienced fibreglassers. The
base panel was two layers of 300g csm, layered up with about 2.2 times it's weight in resin. It seemed to soak in very well, I didn't have
too much left over and I could see where it had dissolved the binder.
It's cured now, and the panel separated from the wood beautifully. But it seems awfully transparent? It's about the same as a frosted
glass window, if it's stood up you can't see through it but if you lie it on a newspaper you can pretty much read all the text.
Is it meant to be like that? Is this a sign of me doing the process wrong?
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Fred W B
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| posted on 30/4/12 at 07:04 PM |
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It will be translucent unless you used a gell coat with a pigment as a first layer.
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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iank
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| posted on 1/5/12 at 09:09 PM |
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As Fred says, that's what gel coat is for.
Here's what I'd expect - colour of yellow can vary depending on resin, level of translucency depends on how thick.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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Slimy38
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| posted on 2/5/12 at 05:28 AM |
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Yep, that's pretty much what I've got, nice one!
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