stephen_gusterson
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posted on 15/1/03 at 10:23 PM |
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so, if cellulose inst good for alu or grp and 2k kills you, what are home painters using?
atb
steve
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Spyderman
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posted on 16/1/03 at 12:04 PM |
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Cellulose is perfectly good for ally and f/glass.
Reliant used cellulose for decades without any problems on their plastic pigs.
As long as you use a good etch primer and surfacer/primer it should be satifactory on aluminium.
Cellulose is a very versatile material to work with.
If you need High gloss then use a base clear laquer over it.
Terry
Spyderman
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 16/1/03 at 07:20 PM |
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Dont take my word for it, next time you see a pre 90 Reliant, just look !!
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stephen_gusterson
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posted on 16/1/03 at 09:55 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mark Allanson
Dont take my word for it, next time you see a pre 90 Reliant, just look !!
I would love to think im gonna keep my car for years and years when it built, but i doubt it - the longest i have had a car is 7 years - most of that
it was being rebuilt after a crash!
if it makes 10 years that would be great - bet the cars had a few owners by then and wont be my problem.
Anyone familiar with the Somebody Elses Problem syndrome in hitchhikers guide to the galaxy?
atb
steve
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 16/1/03 at 10:50 PM |
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I said pre '90 because thats when they started using 2K (I wonder why they did that?), if you saw a celly finished Reliant in 91 would see what I
mean
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Skirrow
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posted on 18/1/03 at 12:06 AM |
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I must say I've never heard of any problems with celly over aluminium or grp. Admittedly though that I have never sprayed anything other than steel.
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stephen_gusterson
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posted on 18/1/03 at 11:43 PM |
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from what I have read, anyone with pro facilites would use 2k every time cos it goes on with less coats and gives a higher gloss. Lots of reasons why
reliant might have done this i suppose. So would i if i had a paint shop! when i tried to get a quote on my metro turbo respray it was almost
impossible. Sprayers naturally want to do all the prep work, so it gets expensive. Unless you have a massive bank balance, I cant see any other way of
doing a home spray than with celly.
can anyone else?
Dont even think of suggesting acrylic cans from halfords!
Or dulux
atb
steve
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 19/1/03 at 08:21 PM |
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Steve, I am lucky having access to a large bodyshop to get my car painted, for those that dont, ask the paint supplier to advise which paints to use.
I would suggest that you pay for the best materials you can get, dont even think about the budget stuff which is about £15 a litre, and get etch
primers to match the material you are painting, one for ally and one for glass. Keep to one manufacturer as the products are more likely to be
compatable. Give loads of time to preparation and keep everything clean - use spirit wipe to remove all traces of grease. Vacuum you garage before you
start, including the ceiling!!
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stephen_gusterson
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posted on 20/1/03 at 12:29 AM |
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thats good advice.
I went a bit further when I sprayed my metro.
I bought damp proof course quality PVC sheet and lined the whole garage - roof, sides and floor - with it. Sort of a full body metro condom. I would
totally recommend this. By the time you have built your car there is gonna be so much crap in the air and its all gonna suck right on to the paint in
your car. Even seen dust in a shaft of sun light......its all gonna texture the car.
atb
steve
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Spyderman
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posted on 20/1/03 at 02:23 PM |
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I have done the same as Steve many times.
Making a plastic tent is probably the easiest method.
Another tip I would suggest is to damp the floor down first as well. It stops any dust from rising and also attracts some of the airborn dust that you
will create.
All you should have inside the tent is the car or object being sprayed. Keep compressor outside.
Also make sure the air temperature is high enough. Painting in the winter is a no-no, unless you have a good sized heated garage. Remember to switch
of heaters when painting.
Tac rags although expensive are a must for removing dust before spraying.
Terry
Spyderman
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