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Author: Subject: Spraying - advice please
Mark Allanson

posted on 26/12/05 at 07:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Triton
Spraying is a black art and best left to those who know what they are doing and have the right kit to do it with.


I have £500k of equipment and 15 years experience and it still makes my bum hole blink when I enter the booth is a spray suit





If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation

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Peteff

posted on 26/12/05 at 07:36 PM Reply With Quote
A friend of mine who is a couple of years older than me was a painter/bodywork man all his life. He wore his airfed mask for most jobs but would do a bit of blowing in without it as it was only a 2 minute job. It's now a 2 hour and 1 inhaler job for him to walk the 1/2 mile to the pub.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Triton

posted on 26/12/05 at 07:39 PM Reply With Quote
Evil stuff that 2 pack paint





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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Mark Allanson

posted on 26/12/05 at 08:16 PM Reply With Quote
Is ANYONE now in any doubt about the dangers of using 2K at home?





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big_wasa

posted on 26/12/05 at 08:16 PM Reply With Quote
So what are the real options for DIY is there anything elts other then cele or 2k?
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Mark Allanson

posted on 26/12/05 at 08:29 PM Reply With Quote
Celly is getting very hard to get hold of now as the VOC content is VERY high.

I would use a 2 part (thats PART not pack) etching high build, which is very easy to use and sticks to anything, put it down in moderate coats with 20 mins between coats, and gently flat (dry 400) to a smooth finish. Use standard polyester basecoat which is even easier to apply, you would have to really try to get a run in it, and give it a drop coat is using metallic. Followed by a 1K (ready to use out of the tin) clear coat, don't try to bury anything with this as it will crack if too thick, 2 coats will normally give you a good gloss straight from the gun, but I would give it 4 coats incase you have to nib any 'errors' out of the finish. 6 coats will probably craze in a few months so don't go mad.





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Avoneer

posted on 26/12/05 at 08:44 PM Reply With Quote
So Mark,

Is that the best way to do it as you last described as that sounded do-able for us home people.

Can't we just add a sprinkle of metal flake to the clear coat?

The other option would be for me to make moulds from my parts and make new parts in black gel coat or wet lay carbon! This would be a bit more expensive though.

Pat...





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stevebubs

posted on 26/12/05 at 09:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark
They lacquer that days work, then scotch it back and start again, I don't think the fancy art work tends to get the same day to day wear that the avaerage car gets



Ok...back to basics here (In other words, time to show my ignorance)

On American Hotrod and the like, they spray the car with colour then take it out and flat it back before applying clearcoat. This flatting takes more than 20 minutes....

Surely the cars they spray see the road and don't peel?

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k33ts

posted on 26/12/05 at 10:58 PM Reply With Quote
ive done a couple of spray jobs with no previous experience with really good results.
dont let them put you of to much the worst that will happen is youll have to rub it down and start again.
make sure your undercoat is as smooth as you would like the finished article to be i flat it with 800 wet and dry.
i used standard polyester base a couple of coats will do.

then 3 coats of non isocyanate 2k clear leaving at leats 30 mins between coats depending on room temp.

then leave for a day or two then wet flat with 1200 then 2000 them mop with g3 or similar then mop hand glaze.

the reason i decided to have a go myself is because of my budget local paint shops round here want from £500 upwards and im sure my work is be better than some of these outfits.

and when it does come right youll get a great deal of self satisfaction.

go to your local autopaint international dealer theyll be able to tell you about metal flake or recomend something similar its probably not as hard as you think.

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Triton

posted on 26/12/05 at 11:18 PM Reply With Quote
You could always go mad by adding stuff to the gel coat Pat...........





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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Avoneer

posted on 26/12/05 at 11:24 PM Reply With Quote
Allready got the parts though Mark.

Still pondering on taking moulds from everything and remaking them lighter, in plain black and throwing flake in the gell???

Too much bloody work though.

Maybe doing it with Halfords cans is now an option as a good 1st time spray job!

Might just spray the whole thing in grey bloody primer and leave it at that!





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Triton

posted on 26/12/05 at 11:32 PM Reply With Quote
Paint it white then plaster it in stickers





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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stevebubs

posted on 27/12/05 at 01:10 AM Reply With Quote
Pat,

The only warning I will give you is that dark colours (especially black) will show up all the imperfections in a paint job.

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stevebubs

posted on 27/12/05 at 01:14 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Might just spray the whole thing in grey bloody primer and leave it at that!

That's not such a bad idea. Jim ran his pheonix for quite a while in primer and it actually looked pretty good...in fact, here's a pic of the man himself at Le Mans '03
Jim's Pheonix In Primer
Jim's Pheonix In Primer

Advantage of this is you can then save the pennies for the spray job next winter!


[Edited on 27/12/05 by stevebubs]

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cornishrob

posted on 27/12/05 at 11:29 AM Reply With Quote
I have done quite a bit of spraying, and its a pretty difficult thing to get right.


I haven't the time to read the last 4 pages so dont know the advice given.

But to emphaise on one point i was nearly taken ill after spraying with cans in the my garage with the doors open and a breath mask on. I now spray with 2 pack which contains more harmful stuff than the cellulose i was using at the time and to do that i have a sealed full body suit with a none too cheap gas mask.

personal safety is second to know and when dealing with this sort of things dont take the chance!

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Avoneer

posted on 27/12/05 at 11:55 AM Reply With Quote
I can see this doing the job for my level or expertise:

Pat... Rescued attachment earlex-spray-paint-system.jpg
Rescued attachment earlex-spray-paint-system.jpg






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froggy

posted on 27/12/05 at 11:59 AM Reply With Quote
a good all round mask is a 3m with the three filters in .two big cheek filters anda small rectangular one over the nose ,cant remember the name of it but it is a tight fit over the face and cuts any smells out when painting so its pretty good. sure i paid about £50 for the mask and a few filter packs. there is a small reservoir in the base of the mask which fills with water after wearing it for half an hour. when i did work in a bodyshop the airfed masks were ok but you could still smell the paint when wearing one .
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Avoneer

posted on 27/12/05 at 01:57 PM Reply With Quote
I've got one of the posh 3M ones, with three filters, but they aren't replaceable.

Supposed to stop near enough anything though and has a complicated strap system and sticks to your face and makes you look like a fighter pilot.

Any comments on the electric gun???

Pat...





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Peteff

posted on 27/12/05 at 02:19 PM Reply With Quote
Is that a HVLP set? They work well, the one I used a long time ago did anyway. I thought you meant an electric spraygun , they're alright for creosoting fences.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Avoneer

posted on 27/12/05 at 02:33 PM Reply With Quote
Yep, that's the one - HVLP.

£50 Argos.

For my skills, think it will do the job just fine.

I can get a nice finish from a spray can so this must be the next stage up.

Pat...





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Mark Allanson

posted on 27/12/05 at 08:06 PM Reply With Quote
Just to add to ther confusion! Rescued attachment SilverHoloflakes.JPG
Rescued attachment SilverHoloflakes.JPG






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Triton

posted on 27/12/05 at 08:10 PM Reply With Quote
Mark,
Have you got snow?

Cheers
Mark





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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Mark Allanson

posted on 27/12/05 at 08:29 PM Reply With Quote
Psychedelic dandruff





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Avoneer

posted on 27/12/05 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Mark.

Personally, I think it's gonna be easiest for me and my location and gun to use cellulose primer, cellulose black or gray base coat and then cellulose laquer with some of that metal flake in it.

How bad can it be if done carefully and in thin coats???

Worse than Tiger GRP ???

Pat...





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Mark Allanson

posted on 27/12/05 at 09:15 PM Reply With Quote
Pat, if you want to use holoflakes (they are on ebay right now), use the 2part etch hibuild, black polyester base, and then give 2 coats of flake RTU (ready to use) clear, and then 3 coats of pure clear on top. Mix the holoflakes as rich as you can as the coats want to be as much flake as you can lay down in the least amount of clear. If the mix is weak, you will shear the flake and it will look awful.

Use as much dry heat as you can between coats, I expect these new halogen heaters will be ideal (I havent used one yet).


The holoflakes are translucent and separate the light passing throuch them like a CD does - VERY EYE CATCHING! The black basecoat is invisible behind the flakes, I tried silver on my wheels and lost some of the effect. There a several colours available, and all look spectacular





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