RazMan
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| posted on 27/2/07 at 11:39 PM |
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Yep, that's why Dhuz fasteners were invented 
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Peteff
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| posted on 28/2/07 at 12:15 AM |
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The screws can be done up with a 10p piece once the c/s is formed.
Would a 2p piece do it, we don't want to go too mad do we ?
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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907
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| posted on 28/2/07 at 12:30 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Would a 2p piece do it, we don't want to go too mad do we ?
Tut tut. Don't you know anything Pete?
By using a 10p with it's aluminium/nickel content I will lower the electrolytic corrosion factor.
Just imagine the problems I'd have with copper on ally. I would age harden before reaching my prime.
Paul G
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Gaz 1977
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| posted on 28/2/07 at 09:02 AM |
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they look good, I cant see any problems with the addition of some PTFE tape
You do remember your engine is a LOTUS, getting to the engine quickly and often will be essential.
Is the ten pence to call the RAC.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 28/2/07 at 09:19 AM |
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You'll be OK with a 2p coin - most of them are made of steel these days, with a thin copper covering!
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Fred W B
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| posted on 28/2/07 at 11:19 AM |
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I like, except for the potential for losing the screws if you take them out at a filling station or whatever. Suppose you could keep some spares in
the car though.
cheers
Fred W B
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 28/2/07 at 05:52 PM |
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Would the screws have a big enough surface area to spread the load without pulling through the ally? Perhaps some button headed stainless screws might
be better and still be SVA friendly?
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 28/2/07 at 05:58 PM |
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This is an idea I had a while back for a "hidden" fixing (sorry for abusing your Paint creation!).
Essentialy you mount a couple of pins into the chassis rail, and a strip with keyhole cutouts is used to lock into a recess machined into the pins.
This can be moved by a lock mechanism from the outside. There are a some issues to solve, how do you retain the strip in place for starters (a couple
of slots cut in it and an a screw, washers and spring and nut to keep it under tension maybe).
By suitably forming the strip around the keyhole it could be made to pull the bonnet down as it engages with the pin.
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907
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| posted on 28/2/07 at 09:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Would the screws have a big enough surface area to spread the load without pulling through the ally? Perhaps some button headed stainless screws might
be better and still be SVA friendly?
Hi Rusty
The idea behind using counter sunk screws is that the c/s would be a positive location into the c/s of the lug.
On first assembly the bonnet would be clamped in position and the screws inserted and the ally c/s formed
when tightening the screws for the first time.
On refitting it must go back in the same place.
As for pulling through, when I did the test one it took a spanner on the hex shaft of the screwdriver to c/s the ally sheet.
The trouble with dome or pan heads (and Dzus) is you would need a clearance hole that would allow the bonnet to move
if the screws were not really tight.
I'm going to dismiss the vibrating loose issue.
Vibration???? From a Lotus engine/????
I like your idea Mike. Going to think about that one.
Atb
Paul G
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caber
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| posted on 28/2/07 at 11:15 PM |
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Great British sports Cars have SVA rubber pull down catches on Ebay at £10 a pair ATM, I went for this.
I do like the screw in solution, a bit of old inner tube rubber on the receiver surface may be enough to prevent them rattling loose.
You may be able to get an M5 star washer to go up the thread of the screw to save it falling out of the panel when you unscrew it, if not try some UNF
star washers about the same size.
I wish I had seen this or thought of the pull in countersink for my dashboard before I fitted it with cups!
well done!
Caber
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