blakep82
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| posted on 10/6/07 at 09:46 PM |
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different car, same components, same idea. viewed from the front
 
wishbones
 
top view
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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dern
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| posted on 10/6/07 at 09:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
No bends in my top bones. These are GTS (Yes GTS and well made too ) items, but theres no rocket science in the design..........
The only
problem I can see is that the chassis ends of my brackets need to be perpendicular to the axis of movement so I can mount some inserts for the rod
ends.
Either I need a bend to get in to the balljoint mount, an angle welded in to the legs to achieve the same or weld the legs at an angle to the threaded
insert... if you see what I mean?
Regards,
Mark
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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nitram38
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| posted on 10/6/07 at 09:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dern
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
I wouldn't like to drive your car!
Very encouraging.
The 10mm rose joints were supplied with the wishbones. Apart from the fact that you use 1/2" and wouldn't personally feel happy with 10mm
rose joints is there any engineering reason why they aren't strong enough? If so I'm surprised that they were supplied but I can always
drill and tap the bones out to take bigger rose joints.
Is there any alternative to making up new top bones? I can do it but it seems a waste to chuck the ones I've bought. Can these be extended in
any way?
Thanks,
Mark
PS. The car will be predominantly for track use and some sprinting. I'm not that bothered about driving it on the road.
[Edited on 10/6/07 by dern]
What I mean is that I wouldn't like to be driving your car hard with 10mm rod ends that stuck out that far!
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dern
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| posted on 10/6/07 at 09:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nitram38 My other advice is that your camber should be about 0.5 to 1 degree.
It does make your tyres wear, but it also helps with grip in corners.
I was planning to run about one deg camber on road tyres but had been told no camber was required for slicks. This is only what I've read on the
internet so I'll get specific information for the tyres I eventually go for.
Thanks for all the other info. I don't intend on taking any passengers... I wasn't going to fit a second seat if I could get through sva
like that.
Regards,
Mark
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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dern
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| posted on 10/6/07 at 09:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nitram38What I mean is that I wouldn't like to be driving your car hard with 10mm rod ends that stuck out
that far!
I understand. I was just discouraged by the first reply after an afternoon's work 
Regards,
Mark
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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Avoneer
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| posted on 10/6/07 at 09:54 PM |
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You can use straight lengths and rose joints - just like MNR.
Pat...
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ReMan
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| posted on 10/6/07 at 09:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dern
quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
No bends in my top bones. These are GTS (Yes GTS and well made too ) items, but theres no rocket science in the design..........
The only
problem I can see is that the chassis ends of my brackets need to be perpendicular to the axis of movement so I can mount some inserts for the rod
ends.
Either I need a bend to get in to the balljoint mount, an angle welded in to the legs to achieve the same or weld the legs at an angle to the threaded
insert... if you see what I mean?
Regards,
Mark
Yes I understand.
Though there must be quite some angle available in the rod end itself, if they were to be made just out of tube like yor existing ones but
straight.
Or am making it too simple 
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dern
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| posted on 10/6/07 at 10:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Though there must be quite some angle available in the rod end itself, if they were to be made just out of tube like yor existing ones but
straight.
Or am making it too simple
No, that's a great idea. Should have thought of that
That's that then, I'll do that. Problem solved 
Thanks all,
Mark
[Edited on 10/6/07 by dern]
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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westcost1
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 10:00 AM |
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have u got the right castor angle ? worth checking before u weld them up i now from personal experience lol
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Avoneer
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 11:08 AM |
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That's the beauty of rose joints.
Loads of adjustable castor!
Pat...
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dern
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 11:45 AM |
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Had an idea (please excuse the picture, seem to have mislaid my scanner)...
The thing on the left is the end of the bone as it stands. There's a threaded insert welded in to the tube.
On the right I've got a bit of high tensile threaded rod (a bolt with the top cut off) and some threaded bar/stock. I've inserted the stud
in to the existing insert and held it there with thread lock to hold in place for the next bit. I've then wound on the threaded bar on to the
stud which then extends the bone.The stud winds in to the existing bone and the extension by 15mm giving me 25mm (40mm extension) in to which I can
fully wind the rod end with a lock nut in place. I then weld the extension on to the existing bone end and then wind in the rod end.
Firstly does this plan look any good?
Secondly where can I get some threaded round/hex bar like in the picture with an M10 1.5 thread? I'd need 4 of them each of which is roughly
40mm long (I'll measure more accurately if this is a goer.
Thanks,
Mark
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 11:55 AM |
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I'd only do that if I were to then sleeve and weld over the top of the joint as it is a recipe for disaster. At least sleeving it it will add
the strength and prevent the possibility of it unscrewing.
Steve
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dern
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 11:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Howlor
I'd only do that if I were to then sleeve and weld over the top of the joint as it is a recipe for disaster. At least sleeving it it will add
the strength and prevent the possibility of it unscrewing.
The extension will be welded to the existing bone after it's wound on to the
stud. This should be just as string as the original insert I would have thought.
Regards,
Mark
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 12:26 PM |
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It may well work fine, but it just has that 'feeling' of being not the right solution and with something as safety critical as a wishbone
I'd personally rather do it properly.
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 05:37 PM |
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Why not fix the probelm properly?
Set the car up on blocks to give the front ride height you are looking for. Then put the wheels on the hubs on the uprights......... attach the
bottom balljoint.....then set the wheels at the required camber......then put the drag link in the top hole of the upright........measure the length
that a new wishbone needs to be to do the job properly.............then make new top wishbones that fit properly and do the job safely.
Not difficult at all. And safe as well.
Cheers,
Syd.
You'll get more clearance for your coilovers with properly made wishbones, as well.
[Edited on 11/6/07 by Syd Bridge]
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dern
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 05:48 PM |
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You're right of course.
I just want to avoid the shag/cost of having to find/make the inserts for the rod ends and the transit drag link.
Cheers,
Mark
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 05:58 PM |
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Give (???) the present top w/bones back to who made them. With the distance that they are short, they'd never be any good, except for someone
wanting about 15 degrees negative camber!!
They're junk to start with.
Sorry.
Cheers,
Syd.
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dern
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 06:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Syd Bridge
Give (???) the present top w/bones back to who made them. With the distance that they are short, they'd never be any good, except for someone
wanting about 15 degrees negative camber!!
They're junk to start with.
Unfortunately I bought them quite a while ago and the guy's website has now gone....
:perk: I could cut the legs of them and with the aid of a grinder I could possibly reuse the draglink tube (relatively easy) and inserts (trickier)
and it would make me feel happier
Regards,
Mark
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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blakep82
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 08:21 PM |
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rose joint inserts can be bought from rally design for a few pounds each. drag link tube can be bought from lolocost
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 08:53 PM |
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And get some tube bent up.
A lot of the manafacturers will do it for you like MK, MK Engineering or any tube bending place.
Pat...
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 09:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dern
[Unfortunately I bought them quite a while ago and the guy's website has now gone....
Flog them to someone using Sierra uprights? I reckon that's what they muct have been made for.
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dern
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| posted on 12/6/07 at 06:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Flog them to someone using Sierra uprights? I reckon that's what they muct have been made for.
That's what it turns out they are.
Some kind soul (thanks Ronnie) emailed me some pictures of a sierra set up with ace sports cars bones and the top bone is identical to mine.
Regards,
Mark
PS. How much does a cheap sierra go for these days? I could convert to sierra stuff, get the rear calipers and handbrake I need, sell the tina stuff
(inlc calipers) and be quids in
[Edited on 12/6/07 by dern]
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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dern
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| posted on 12/6/07 at 07:06 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
rose joint inserts can be bought from rally design for a few pounds each. drag link tube can be bought from lolocost
Cheers. I phoned up RD
yesterday but he didn't know the dimensions of the insert so I didn't know what size tube it would slot in to. He said it slots in one
size of their tube (and did try it for me) but didn't know the dimensions of that tube either. Maybe the dimensions are in their catalogue...
pretty sure I have one around here somewhere. He did seem very very busy.
A mate with a lathe seems pretty confident of helping making them. I can get 25mm tube with a 2mm wall and get some 25mm bar and turn in down to 21mm
with a 'hat'. Even if we can't drill it with the lathe (and I'm pretty sure we can) I can always carefully use a pillar drill,
weld it then tap it.
I'll contact lolocost but recall someone posting that the bit was pretty crap and that he had to go and buy a tap anyway to clean up the
threads.
Thanks,
Mark
[Edited on 12/6/07 by dern]
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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Avoneer
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| posted on 12/6/07 at 11:09 AM |
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Nick Skidmore (on here) is good (and quick) at making inserts.
Pat...
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