coozer
|
| posted on 21/3/09 at 09:20 PM |
|
|
Half Doors
Asked about this before but I need either a good guide to making them (Smart51?) or some one who can make a decent go of it.
Any ideas/places/people?
Locost being the theme
Fluke do some cool ones for Westies, any moulders up to it??
Steve
[Edited on 21/3/09 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
|
|
Guinness
|
| posted on 21/3/09 at 09:26 PM |
|
|
If we can convince Triton to make a batch, I'll have a pair in black please. 
Cheers
Mike
|
|
|
omega0684
|
| posted on 21/3/09 at 09:35 PM |
|
|
i want some as well, like these
 
|
|
|
Pdlewis
|
| posted on 21/3/09 at 09:46 PM |
|
|
Id be up for some if we could get triton to make them 
Build Photo Album
Updated 05/02/2009
|
|
|
goaty
|
| posted on 21/3/09 at 09:54 PM |
|
|
same,would love some
|
|
|
dhutch
|
| posted on 21/3/09 at 10:23 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by goaty
same,would love some
Also mildy insterested at the right price.
|
|
|
Humbug
|
| posted on 21/3/09 at 10:49 PM |
|
|
They would have to be model-specific, because every type of car has slightly different scuttle shape/angle, sill length, etc.
|
|
|
caber
|
| posted on 21/3/09 at 10:57 PM |
|
|
I got my tonneau made with 2 zips so I can leave the sides on as half doors. this works really well and cost nothing!
Caber
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 21/3/09 at 10:57 PM |
|
|
I haven't done a guide but here's how I did mine. I bought a few lengths of 10mm x 1mm wall steel tube, a bit of 20mm x 2mm flat bar. and
some 6mm dia solid bar. The steel tube was bent by hand and over my knee to the desired shape. The top bar is parallel to the side from the top of
the arch and bends near the front to be parallel to the scuttle / bonnet. The bottom bar follows the line of the rear arch and runs just below the
top of the side panel. These are welded to the strip at the front which follows the angle of the dash. A short piece of the strip is welded to the
rear ends of the tubes, spacing them apart.
The thick wire is bent into half elipse shapes to form the elbow room. The ends are welded to the tubes top and bottom with the apexes welded
together. I spray painted them with zinc primer and black top coat.
The shells were made from two pieces of 2mm thick mounting card from a stationary shop. Tape them on with masking tape to hold it. The join of the
2 pieces follows the rear ellipse. I found that flat pieces bent to shape nicely.
I covered the outside with seating vinyl which had enough stretch to cover in 1 piece without any joins. Contact adhesive over most of the area has
been fine for over a year. Something with a bit more hold for the seams might be a good idea.
I covered the inside with what ebay told me was fake suede. It was a bit thin but looked nice. You need some thin foam for padding if you
don't want the folded over edges of the vinyl to show through.
Plenty of places sell lift off hinges. Reinforce the scuttle if bolting direct to the GRP with a steel plate at the back.
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 22/3/09 at 09:42 AM |
|
|
Spent yesterday pm shaping and bending a piece of ally sheet to make a half door for the drivers side . Doesn't look too bad although not as
good as Paul (907) would have made . Need to make some hinges to suit as I haven't seen any I like. Going to use a sheet of Vybak for the
sidescreens although I'm not sure if it's legal ?
|
|
|
Miks15
|
| posted on 22/3/09 at 10:15 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Humbug
They would have to be model-specific, because every type of car has slightly different scuttle shape/angle, sill length, etc.
Surely they sould be made with extra at the bottom and end and trimmed to your requriement?
|
|
|
dhutch
|
| posted on 22/3/09 at 10:37 PM |
|
|
quote:
Surely they sould be made with extra at the bottom and end and trimmed to your requriement?
Yeah, thats what i was thinking.
- Have the same fixed shape in the middle, with plenty of material around, trim to suit.
Daniel
|
|
|
jabbahutt
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 07:58 AM |
|
|
Fantastic idea, I'd be up for a set specially if in a similar style to the ones in omega0684's post further up.
Agree the the view above that one style with enough material to trim to specific model would be the sensible way to go but then I know nothing about
molding in fibreglass.
|
|
|
Triton
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 11:12 AM |
|
|
Anyone fancy making the pattern then as they vary a bit...bloke/woman who maketh thine pattern gets a set buckshee.....
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 11:18 AM |
|
|
A pattern eh? Will do but what about the curve over the scuttle?
Excited
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
Triton
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 11:28 AM |
|
|
That's the only snag as 7's vary a bit there and not all have the same radius side to side but I suppose if made using woven cloth they
could be persuaded to fit as it makes for a more flexible part...
My woven cloth cycle wings all but twist right round with no cracking of the gel coat where the standard ones would give up the ghost.
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 11:30 AM |
|
|
What about a pattern of the side with a bit of bar bent to match the scuttle rad??
More excited
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
Triton
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 11:37 AM |
|
|
I have an Indy scuttle somewhere so know I can match to that so if you did one to suit the MNR that makes two if the distance from scuttle to wing is
more or less the same.?
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 11:45 AM |
|
|
I'll take some pics and do some measuring when I get home tonight.
I reckon the scuttle to back wing is a fair bit longer on the MNR just going of sitting in them like...
Thank you,
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
DarrenW
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 12:20 PM |
|
|
By pattern are we talking just like sticking a piece of paper over where the doors would sit and drawing the shape between scuttle, rear rad and top
of chassis? I could possibly do a Mac#1 so that you have another marque to try.
|
|
|
Marcus
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 12:23 PM |
|
|
You could do this :
 
Description
Took 10 mins with a needle and thread
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
|
|
|
Triton
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 12:26 PM |
|
|
I should Know the distance on the Mac1 but duffer getting old and can't remember....but yes and some idea on how deep the elbow bit wants to be
because being a shortarse I would make it too small for everyone else..
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
|
|
|
YQUSTA
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 03:18 PM |
|
|
I have a full size MK door if you want me to get some dims from that?
YQUSTA
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 23/3/09 at 08:39 PM |
|
|
FAO: Mr. Triton and his exceedingly good seats.
Here we go..
front of scuttle to rear arch for the bottom bar is 660 (690 overlapping?)
Height up the scuttle about 260. From this point back to the roll bar at the top point of the body is 1100 (1130 overlapping)
So front height without overlap is 260, going back to the roll bar level measuring back 520 from the bottom of the scuttle the height is 280
The scuttle is quite flat up to the 260 point but here would need to be a curve in the top to clear the steering wheel.
The height of the bodywork at the back is 50mm form the top of the arch to the top of the bodywork
Hows that? Is it all a bit too complicated without the car??
Steve
[Edited on 24/3/09 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
M15ley
|
| posted on 28/7/09 at 05:47 PM |
|
|
It appeas as though this project has died a death? Did anything come of the door manufacturing idea?
|
|
|
.jpg)
