smart51
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 12:09 PM |
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How to apply body filler nicely
I've tried filling painting one of my nice new GRP panels and it has taken a lot of work. I sanded the filler till it looked lovely, then
painted it with filler primer and it looked like someone had fired rocks into it. After lots of sanding, adding more filler into low spots, filling
in pin holes, more sanding, more filler primer, it hardly looked any better. It took loads of attempts to finally get a decent appearance.
Some of the problems are the filler breaking up when pulling the plastic "scraper" thing over the surface plus not getting smooth sweeps
over tightly curved surfaces.
How do I apply body filler in a way that gives me a half decent finish so I only have to spend weeks sanding it rather than months?
[Edited on 25-3-2009 by smart51]
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Benzine
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 12:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Some of the problems are the filler breaking up when pulling the plastic thing over the surface plus not getting smooth sweeps over tightly curved
surfaces.
I'd like to know, I have that problem too, like little craters appear instead of a nice even finish 
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BenB
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 12:22 PM |
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I wouldn't use plastic to cover it. Just wipe it on. Also if you attack it with a sander before it's gone fully off it's easier to
sand (though if you do it too soon you'll rip big chunks out of it).
It's also worth only using fresh filler. the solvent evaporates with time and the filler then loses some of its fluidity. Apply it in one nice
sweep (too much mucking around just adds pin holes and air bubbles).
I'm not filling expert but after doing both sides of my tintop post sill welding (in 4 seperate areas) I've got a fair bit of practice...
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 12:24 PM |
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Try making sure the consisency of the filler isn't too dry. Also, don't try and fill too much too quickly as it will
'drag'.
I find that wetting the scraper can help too.
It's a well known fact that the prep takes 90% of the time but it's well worth it.
Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge will be along soon 
HTH
JB
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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owelly
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 12:30 PM |
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I'd say use a good quality filler and not some old stuff that has been sitting on a shelf since 1982.
Take care to add just enough catalyst and avoid over mixing.
If the filler feels as though it's going off, stop and chuck it in the bin. Any more working will result in you pulling it out!
Enjoy.........
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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chrisg
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 12:41 PM |
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Firstly always mix any resin that has settled out back into the body of the filler.
Mix the filler with the catylist by scooping it up and pressing it down - not by winding round and round, as this introuduces air bubbles. Ensure
that the filler and catylist are fully mixed to an even colour.
Always apply filler in thin layers (3 to 4mm max)and build up the surface gradually until it's above the surface of the surrounding bodywork. If
the filler starts to drag STOP - it's started to go off.
Roughly level the surface and apply a final"skim" over the entire repair, this ensures that the final finish is in the same density of
filler, each time you mix some filler the mix is slightly different (harder/softer) when you're sanding your final finish the softer filler will
sand quicker than the hard.
Finish the shape with 80 grit paper and then work down to 400 grit wet and dry used wet. Use a rubber sanding block so that you don't sand the
tracks of your fingers in to make troughs in the surface.
When you think you're about done, throughly dry the repair and spray three coats of filler and allow to dry. Take a dark aerosol (not red -
it's rubbish!)and spray a very light coat over the primer. Use 600 grit used wet and go over the entire repair. If there are any low spots
they will show up clearly in the dark colour. Feel the surface, if the low spots are deep (They shouldn't be) sand off the primer and re fill.
If the low spots are small use stopping paste on them and then re sand.
Prime and paint et voila!
Cheers
Chris 
[Edited on 25/3/09 by chrisg]
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
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RichardK
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 12:49 PM |
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Nice guide Chris, well and truly copied and pasted!
Cheers
Rich
[Edited on 25/3/09 by RichardK]
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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loggyboy
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 12:52 PM |
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I found that applying more (not alot but more) filler, making it quite thick, ignoring the fact it was undeven and lumpy, then i'd spend more
time sanding it using course paper to get it closer to the correct level, then reduced down the courseness till i was 'nearly'
wet-n-drying the filler. I then went on to primer a few layers, wet n dry, refillered to get a better finish, back to primer and wet n dry and
eventually paint!
I HATE bodywork!
Mistral Motorsport
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smart51
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 12:59 PM |
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What is stopping paste? Google isn't being at all helpful and eBay doesn't seem to have any either. Is it also known by another name?
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 01:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by smart51
What is stopping paste? Google isn't being at all helpful and eBay doesn't seem to have any either. Is it also known by another name?
Try this
JB
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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chrisg
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 02:04 PM |
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Yup that's the stuff 
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
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martin1973
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| posted on 25/3/09 at 02:37 PM |
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NEVER USE WATER ON BEAR FILLER!
its like a sponge. then when you have spent ages filling and painting you get little droplets of water under the paint.
finsihing filler is also known as knifing filler.
I use a paint brush wrapped in clingfilm to get a smooth finish on rounded panels like arches.
martin
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