Miks15
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| posted on 15/12/09 at 05:26 PM |
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widening scuttle
I need to make my scuttle a fairbit wider. Whats the best way to go about doing it?
Its an MK indy scuttle.
My thought was cutting it down the middle, and screwing some ally strips into the sides of it to hold it together and then fill in with fiberglass.
Can anyone tell me the best way to do this? And how i would keep the shape of it aswell?
Thanks
Mikkel
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blakep82
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| posted on 15/12/09 at 05:29 PM |
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the way i was told to do things like this, was rivet aluminium sheet to the OUTSIDE of the piece so it makes the right shape, then fibreglass the
inside. the ali is then taken away to leave something almost the right shape for finishing, sanding and filling.
thats the theory anyway...
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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AdrianH
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| posted on 15/12/09 at 05:31 PM |
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Have a look here on this site, it may give clues.
http://www.kineticvehicles.com/superscuttle.html
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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Miks15
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| posted on 15/12/09 at 05:41 PM |
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My plan was to leave the strips of ally on the inside to add a bit of strength on the join. Whcih will mean that my fiberglassing wont be as
important.
I was thinking of doing the cereal box idea that i saw Mr Whippy do (i think it was him) when he widened his cycle wings, do you think this will
work?
Thanks
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Triton
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| posted on 15/12/09 at 06:28 PM |
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Easy...make a thin mould over the centre of the scuttle, once cured you can then pull it off and cut your scuttle in half. Fix the mould using double
sided tape and clamps to desired width and gel and lay up from inside......'tis a doddle really
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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Miks15
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| posted on 15/12/09 at 06:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Triton
Easy...make a thin mould over the centre of the scuttle, once cured you can then pull it off and cut your scuttle in half. Fix the mould using double
sided tape and clamps to desired width and gel and lay up from inside......'tis a doddle really
You make it sound so simple... its as if you done it before!
What do you recomend making the mold out of? And what wax will i need to ensure the mould pulls off?
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blakep82
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| posted on 15/12/09 at 06:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Miks15
What do you recomend making the mold out of? And what wax will i need to ensure the mould pulls off?
good question!
i want to make a mold of a diff cover for a later project.
can you make a list of all the ingredients i need to buy to make a mold too? 
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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twybrow
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| posted on 15/12/09 at 07:32 PM |
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CSM (Chopped strand mat) - comes in different areal weights (weight per unit area). 300, 450, 600gsm. I prefer working with 450, but you might not.
Resin - for tooling, go for an isophthalic polyester (lower shrinkage and higher heat distortion temperature). For general purpose orthophthalic
resin.
Catalyst - normally comes with resin. Summer and winter varieties available.
Gelcoat - lots of choices (tooling, flowcoat/topcoat, uv resistant etc). General purpose will be fine, or buy tooling gel if it is for a mould.
Wax - you should add a small amount to the first coat of gel (working from the inside), to stop the surface being tacky - makes sanding a lot
easier!
Mould release - at home, a tin of Mirrorglaze or similar beeswax is good. Alternatively, chemical semi-permanent relase agents (Freecote, Zyvax
etc).
Then for mould making, wooden battens to glass in to stiffen the mould. Mixing pots. Paint brushes. Paint rollers if doing a larger area.
Paddle/bristle roller for getting the bubbles out. Polishing rags. Acetone to clean up with.
I think that's about it.....!
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Triton
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| posted on 15/12/09 at 08:19 PM |
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Normal general purpose resin will do to make the mould, 3 or 4 layers of 450g matt.
Make the splash mould wide enough so you can use it as a clamp to allow the two sides to line up. Make sure it's as flat as possible to the old
scuttle as gel will bleed thru.
It is easy honest, just a tad smelly and messy
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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RK
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| posted on 16/12/09 at 02:00 AM |
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http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gphlyTQdcyqFp_CSUcmFzg?authkey=Gv1sRgCLfsoZrNyoKG4QE&feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LAos3MfSBs-NGyfliRy_Ew?authkey=Gv1sRgCLfsoZrNyoKG4QE&feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/u78wAEbHftDKmScGwaZF2A?authkey=Gv1sRgCLfsoZrNyoKG4QE&feat=directlink
As per Kinetic Vehicles instructions. I used cello tape over the gap and turned everything upside down, and glassed in the gap. Simple. I have screwed
up a lot of things on this build, but this was actually quite easy. I didn't use the part because I didn't like the bump where the
windscreen goes, but it may find its way to another build that my wife doesn't suspect yet.
[Edited on 16/12/09 by RK]
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