andyw7de
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posted on 11/2/10 at 04:46 PM |
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Alloy Pedals
Ive been playing about with the waterjet trying to make a new pedal assembly for the car. I thought i would get some feedback as to whether Im
barking up the wrong tree.
Bearing in mind this is in development and will be fitted with twin brake cylinders and a bias bar.
So its not a finished artical.
I will be folding the back plate (rather than welded) after cutting all the holes for the brakes etc. back plate will then be powder coated and the
pedals will be silver annodised. the padal plates will have grip tape to finish
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Bluemoon
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posted on 11/2/10 at 04:51 PM |
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I would be worried about fatigue on the brake peddle, not sure how I would address this (FE analysis is not simple to do or interpret correctly so
this is not a good solution unless you are an expert) . You design looks much more substantial than some. Snag is if the peddle cracks you will know
only when you stamp on the peddle and it's all to late. Steel may be better from a DIY approach for the brake peddle, or copy an existing
design.
Dan
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TimC
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posted on 11/2/10 at 04:51 PM |
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Flash G*t!
Have you done some research on ratios?
Look superb though!
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flak monkey
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posted on 11/2/10 at 04:53 PM |
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Looks good to me Pedal ratio might be a bit high though looking at the brake pedal?
Fatigue may be a problem, but it usually takes 100,000s of cycles, depeding on the loads and alloy you are using.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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andyw7de
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posted on 11/2/10 at 04:55 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by TimC
Flash G*t!
Have you done some research on ratios?
Look superb though!
The Ratio's are the same as the standard haynes pedals so Im hoping should be OK
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StevieB
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posted on 11/2/10 at 04:56 PM |
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As someone who had been looking for a twin m/c replacement solution for my Indy, that would be something I'd go for (price dependent of
course).
Even more so if you have a neat solution for clutch and throttle cables...
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blakep82
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posted on 11/2/10 at 04:58 PM |
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Wow!
as a complete non expert, with alloy that thickness, i wouldn't think fatigue would be an issue for a very long time
________________________
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Dan.
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posted on 11/2/10 at 04:59 PM |
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I like them
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andyw7de
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posted on 11/2/10 at 05:07 PM |
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Pedals are cut fro 25mm thick 6082 T6 grade alloy so should be pretty strong and durable.
Anyway brakes are over rated as stopping equipment, i should know Ive seen enough gravel traps
[Edited on 11/2/10 by andyw7de]
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Mike S
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posted on 11/2/10 at 05:24 PM |
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They look nice.
Made my own alloy clutch pedel as it was for a bike engine, so very light.
Mike
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=Clutch (800 x 600).jpg
[Edited on 11/2/10 by Mike S]
[Edited on 11/2/10 by Mike S]
There are more horses' asses in this world than there are horses
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steve m
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posted on 11/2/10 at 07:11 PM |
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Must agree, they do look very nice
And light
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SPYDER
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posted on 11/2/10 at 09:12 PM |
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Well done sir!!
The brake pedal looks perfectly strong enough to me and as already suggested, fatigue should not be an issue for a long, long time, given the material
spec.
We opted for a "hatch" design on our CNC produced alloy pedals rather than grip tape.
Our pedal ratio looks weird too, but it's standard geometry for a Phoenix.
Do you have to finish machine the balance bar bore or is water jet accurate enough on its own?
Ours have press fit steel bushes for the bias bar bore and the pivots.
I would leave the throttle pedal smooth, no tape, and maybe make it a little narrower.
We are often asked if we could supply a set of pedals like ours, but we made them as one-offs and I deleted the programmes as I went along..
If you could produce sets to sell, I think you may well find a few customers.
Alloy pedals, don't ya just love 'em?
Geoff.
[img][/img]
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andyw7de
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posted on 11/2/10 at 11:36 PM |
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Hi Spyder,
I will be fitting a steel insert for the balance bar when it arrives. The pivot points will have sleeved Nylon inserts.
I have fitted M6 male rose joints into the bottom of the clutch and accel pedals to allow secure fixing of cables. Not difficult to make a hydraulic
clutch pedal either.
These pedals have been designed so that they can be fitted to a virtually standard haynes pedal box.
I will make a narrower accelerator and polish it up before annodising.
Happy to make as many sets as can be sold, so when completely developed i will cost up self assembly kits.
If I only supply the pedals and support frame then I cant see it being that expensive ,
Ill keep updating with development progress
Thanks for all the comments they are much appreciated
cheers
Andy
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