rb968
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| posted on 16/2/13 at 09:03 PM |
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Removing rust spots from fibreglass bodywork
Spent an hour or two in the garage putting my Indy back together. The nose one has sat on top of the rollcage for most of the work I have done on the
car and now I have replaced and cleaned it its obvious it has suffered.
The surface is covered in small rust spots and black marks and its rough to the touch so has obviously picked up a lot of grinding dust and metal.
I have cleaned and decreased it with everything in the garage.
What's the best way to try and remove some if not all of the crap in the surface of the fibreglass.
Or have I ruined it?
Cheers,
Rich
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sdh2903
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| posted on 16/2/13 at 09:11 PM |
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You need a clay bar and lubricant, halfords do a meguiars kit. Spray the lube onto the surface then rub the clay over it. It will bring all the
contaminants off leaving a nice smooth surface.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 16/2/13 at 09:14 PM |
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this will be plenty for what you need:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&storeId=10001&productId=922503&categoryId=2552
33&langId=-1
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britishtrident
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| posted on 16/2/13 at 09:31 PM |
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Try vinegar or phosphoric acid (alloy wheel cleaner) first.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 16/2/13 at 10:32 PM |
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You need to dissolve and break down as much as possible, as BT says pickle in vinegar or use a proprietary bodywork cleaner like tardis in the first
instance, then pull out what's left with a clay bar.
If you start with clay it will pull out the bits and scratch the surface
[Edited on 16/2/13 by mark chandler]
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rb968
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| posted on 16/2/13 at 10:46 PM |
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll give them a go.
Rich
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sdh2903
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| posted on 17/2/13 at 09:04 AM |
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Tardis will not touch anything metallic. If you need to treat it first then this is the stuff you need, just don't smell it as it honks, you
just spray it on and it does its thing:
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine-and-exterior/carpro-iron-x-500ml/prod_726.html
It really depends on the size of the contamination, if it's grinding dust then clay with plenty of lube will not scratch. Anything bigger then
yes you need to treat it first.
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theduck
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| posted on 17/2/13 at 10:31 AM |
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As above, İron x followed by clay.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 17/2/13 at 11:16 AM |
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Autoglym sell oxalic acid for this job, it dissolves the minute metallic particles which are burned into the gelcoat. (Phosphoric acid will destroy
the gel instantly)
Finish off with a 1500g all over and a machine polish with Farecla G3
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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rb968
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 01:52 PM |
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Just to update this for anyone searching in future. I bought the T-Cut clay kit from Halfrauds and this lunchtime 20 minutes with the clay bar and
spray removed all but the rust spots. So all the rough particles in the surface that would not wash off came away with a couple of goes with the
clay.
A light polish then removed the rust spots as well so I now have at least one clean rear wing!
Thanks again for the advice.
Rich
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