Craigorypeck
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| posted on 22/3/13 at 09:04 PM |
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wiring in a hidden kill switch
Hi can i just put a 2 way latching switch on the power out to coil wire from a megajolt with rev limiter built in to stop the car being started or
will it still start and operate in limp home mode?
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GreigM
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| posted on 22/3/13 at 11:16 PM |
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does the megajolt need a perm live? if not then could you not just put the switch in its ground wire to interrupt its circuit and disable it
completely?
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Craigorypeck
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 12:10 AM |
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afaia the engine will still run if the megajolt is not powered, and the edis 4 will run on limp home mode as long as the MJ unit is connected up, so
thinking the power to coil wire would be a good choice to switch off to render it a non starter??
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blakep82
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 12:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Craigorypeck
afaia the engine will still run if the megajolt is not powered, and the edis 4 will run on limp home mode as long as the MJ unit is connected up, so
thinking the power to coil wire would be a good choice to switch off to render it a non starter??
Switch the power to the edis, its the edis unit that powers the coil. The megajolt just alters the timing of the edis.edis will happily run without an
mj even fitted to the car
Switch the live to the edid and megajolt, and you're sorted
[Edited on 23/3/13 by blakep82]
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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steve m
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 08:33 AM |
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Why not put a switch in to stop the fuel pump?
no fuel means no go
Steve
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Craigorypeck
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 01:58 PM |
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By the time the carbs empty it could be long gone!
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snowy2
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| posted on 24/3/13 at 08:19 AM |
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I have given this topic lots of thought over the years, and my first cars all had hidden kill switches......but the fact remains that one of the
reasons our cars are so cheap to insure is that they dont get stolen. whilst your building it and your so wrapped up in it, it is very valuable to
you. But to joe public its just another one of them kit cars......
So these days i dont bother with kill switches.
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
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dave_424
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| posted on 25/3/13 at 01:10 PM |
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Like said before, switch the EDIS power wire. No spark no go. Would take minutes to wire up, you could just leave it in the run position most of the
time but if you are parking in a dodgy area, it would be worth having there for peace of mind.
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Craigorypeck
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| posted on 25/3/13 at 05:08 PM |
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From the autosports lab page (below) This confirms what I thought in the first post, cutting the power to coil wire at the megajolt will stop the coil
getting power and not start, this will only work on a MJ that has the hard rev limiter installed, I understand switching the edis live but that will
require a bit more wiring and splitting up the loom in the engine bay and the ease of switching the coil power is very simple as the MJ is under the
dash.
"Since the Ford EDIS module offers no direct rev-limit capability, hard rev limiting is accomplished through a separate circuit which disables
power to the ignition coil(s) upon command. The Rev Limit output of the MJLJ is triggered while running when the engine RPM reaches the configured Rev
Limit.
We offer a separate Hard Rev Limiter board which can be installed inside the MJLJ enclosure, or mounted externally depending on the user's
preference.
Soft Rev Limit
At 100 RPMs before the configured Rev Limit the soft rev limiter is engaged, which significantly reduces engine power by retarding ignition advance to
zero. This is confirmed in the Configuration Software where the displayed Ignition Advance goes to zero upon approaching the configured rev limit.
The combination of hard and soft rev limiting should provide effective rev limit protection for most engine configurations. It's worth noting
that this system cannot compensate for mechanical over-rev conditions"
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Not Anumber
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| posted on 19/4/13 at 11:52 AM |
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I am fitting the megajolt i bought last year on my pinto and am planning the inputs and cable runs.
Have people found the hard rev limiter and the various assorted user defineable outputs are worth using ?
Mine is running vacum rather than TPS, does anyone know if i can get away with using the existing dizzy vacuum take off point from the standard
downdraught Webber &l manifold (staying in place for a while til i save up for bike carbs) or will i need to get the manifold drilled and tapped
?
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Craigorypeck
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| posted on 19/4/13 at 12:20 PM |
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Your dissy vac should work ok as ifs a combination of all cylinders. Bike carbs will need all runners tapped into and run to a reservoir... rev limit
works very well. Other outlets can control shift lights. Fan etc. If you wanted a tps version id swsp mine as I need a map version as running boost
now.
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Not Anumber
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| posted on 20/4/13 at 01:08 PM |
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Ive just ordered a set of ignition leads with mark 1 coilpack ends from Trigger Wheels so am getting gradually closer.
There are 3 connections on the coilpack, two must be connections 'A' and 'B' to the Edis and one is a +12volt feed. Does
anyone happen to know which one is which ?
What is the view on locating the Edis ? Should it go under the bonnet (where my old single HT coli is now) or would it be an idea to put it behind
the dash right next to the Megajolt so i can be sure it will stay dry and would simplify the wiring ? Does it need cooling ?
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dave_424
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| posted on 20/4/13 at 01:30 PM |
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Centre is 12v, the left and right pins correspond to the left and right side of the coilpack, which is labelled 1&4 and 2&3.
Dave
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Not Anumber
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| posted on 20/4/13 at 02:50 PM |
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Many thanks, so that would give:
Pin 10 from the Edis (marked on instructions diagram as Coil A) goes to the 1 & 4 side of the coil [Black/ orange on the Ford loom] and
Pin 12 from the Edis (marked on instructions diagram as Coil B) goes to the 2 & 3 side of the coil [Black/green on the Ford loom]
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owelly
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| posted on 20/4/13 at 03:07 PM |
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Not an answer to the o/p question but:
A few years ago I bought a proximity kit from Farnel/RS/Maplins (I can't remember!) that was on offer for £20 with three proxy cards. I wired it
to a relay that switched the earth on the ECU which was also the earth for the fuel pump. The relay was tucked up behind the dash and the proxy unit
was behind the seat. I had a card in my wallet so as I climbed out of the car, the engine died. For playing with the car at home, I had another card
Velcro'd to the back of the seat.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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