r1_pete
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 05:25 PM |
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Bodywork advice, Lead or Metallik Filler
I've just about got my jags front wings sorted, they had about 10mm filler on them, and after removal, and welding in a few sections I'm
ready for final prep, I'm toying with using lead. Flexing a steel rule over the panels the max deviation from smooth is less than 1mm, and would
value opinions on whether lead is really necessary or if a quality metallic filler would be as good?
The headlamp recess flanges are welded on about 25mm from the edge, and you can see another welded in section at the front of the arches, my real
worry is pinholes in the welds, lead would seal, but would moisture getting in ruin modern fillers?
 
DescriptionRight wing
 
Description Left wing
What I started with
 
Front2
 
Front1
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 06:13 PM |
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Lead solder is difficult to use and often ends up an expensive mess on the floor, the metalwork also has to be extremely clean or it won't
stick. Unless you are a dab hand with a torch you may actually make things worse by over heating the panel and causing more distortion.
Like many things in expert hands it's the biz but not good to do for the first time. If moisture getting in is a worry then you should be using
a good quality seam sealant on the back of the panel over all the welds like gray stripe. They use lead solder on rolls royces and it was notorious
for cracking and letting in moisture, ironically it is usually replaced with body filler even in repairshops.
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jacko
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 06:24 PM |
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Its nice to see leading my Dad was brilliant at doing it but its the old way and now there is new ways. unless you can do it use madden
methods a good make of body filler
Jacko
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doobrychat
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 07:10 PM |
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try using a a filler that doesn't absorb moisture and definitely etch prime it after..I think chemical metal is ok but lead loading for a 1mm
thickness means probably a cart load of distortion plus at the end of any moisture will mean corrosion will creep round the lead eventually...
good luck whatever you decide..
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 07:20 PM |
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If you have any pin holes, then any filler will bubble up withing weeks or months if you are lucky. leading is easy if you know how and will seal out
corrosion for decades as like electrical soldering, it chemically attaches itself to the substrate.
The ideal route is to make sure you have no pin holes, either by welding or a thin wipe of lead, and then use a quality stopper like stoptop gold or
plastic padding.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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doobrychat
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 07:38 PM |
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topstop gold is good but not sure if it doesn't absorb water..
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 07:59 PM |
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Lead loading isn't too difficult just practice on an old panel before trying it on something valuable. My first lead loading job was on the
leading edge of my old Midget, just do some research and take your time. Like anything , the more you do the easier it gets
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 08:30 PM |
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You'll need to find a dead mole to wipe the lead with 
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benchmark51
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 08:59 PM |
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I have replaced both rear wings on an E type and there was plenty of lead there!
I used a modern welder to fit the wings and modern lightweight filler and after shaping was done, polyester
stopper. Sprayed with 2k primer and colour.
Modern materials were developed for a reason convenience, cost and performance - use them.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 22/7/13 at 09:30 PM |
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Thanks for all the responses chaps.
I think I'm favouring a thorough check for pin holes, weld them up, and then use a decent modern aluminium flake based filler.
I don't think I have much in the way of pinholes, a bright light behind has shown up 5 or 6.
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