Harquil1908
|
posted on 13/11/14 at 02:28 PM |
|
|
fitting wheel arches
Hi all, quick question about fitting wheel arches.
how has everyone fitted there's? the manual i have says to fit with 5 bolts around the wheel arch but missing the chassis. now obviously some of
the bolts will go into the back panel and wont be seen but some of the bolts will come through to the cockpit but will be behind the seats so wont be
seen that much. just checking this is right or if there are other/better ways.
thanks
|
|
|
Daf
|
posted on 13/11/14 at 03:43 PM |
|
|
That's the way I've done it, I used some 50mm nylon washers on the back panel and inside the arch to spread the load on the fibergash
though
|
|
Ben_Copeland
|
posted on 14/11/14 at 06:19 AM |
|
|
I'd use a few more than 5 tho.
I found if it's not well fixed then any stress put on the wing will rip the fixing out because theres a big gap till the next one. (Even with
penny washers)
Go for a 7 maybe 8. You can always drill and tap the chassis if you do hit it.
Ben
Locost Map on Google Maps
Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
Enter Your Details Here
http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
|
|
Slimy38
|
posted on 14/11/14 at 11:24 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Ben_Copeland
I'd use a few more than 5 tho.
I found if it's not well fixed then any stress put on the wing will rip the fixing out because theres a big gap till the next one. (Even with
penny washers)
Go for a 7 maybe 8. You can always drill and tap the chassis if you do hit it.
Could you use Sikaflex to help spread the stress? Although I guess it's more permanent than bolts?
|
|
steve m
|
posted on 14/11/14 at 12:05 PM |
|
|
Ive used 4 off 6mm pozi head screws, penny washers to spread the load and 6mm nylocs,
on the panel next to the seat, I glued some hardwood on the inside, and use large self tappers , plus penny washers
ive also made a connector just inside the boot for the lighting wiring, to be disconected
Never had a problem, in removing an arch or re attatching it, and also never had a problem with it moving
Steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
|
|
Ben_Copeland
|
posted on 14/11/14 at 12:58 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Slimy38
Could you use Sikaflex to help spread the stress? Although I guess it's more permanent than bolts?
No don't stick them on, just incase you need to remove one in future.
Ben
Locost Map on Google Maps
Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
Enter Your Details Here
http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
|
|
Smoking Frog
|
posted on 14/11/14 at 01:19 PM |
|
|
Have them removable, gives better access for setting up suspension, bleeding rear brakes etc. For fixing I used the bolt equivalent of a rivnut
(rivbolt?) into the chassis members and bolted from the inside in the rear tub area. If you bolt from the arch side it is very difficult to line up
the holes. I have five fixings in mine, seem sturdy enough.
|
|
rodgling
|
posted on 14/11/14 at 03:23 PM |
|
|
Agree, I would rivnut the chassis / bodywork as it's a huge pain to reach round the arch and access both sides to do up a nut and bolt.
|
|
Harquil1908
|
posted on 14/11/14 at 05:35 PM |
|
|
Thanks for all the reply's guys. The rivnut into the chassis way does sound the best and neatest idea to me tbh. Know the bolts would be hidden
by the seats but still not great.
|
|