02GF74
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| posted on 11/12/06 at 02:14 PM |
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wing stays once more...
on my third iteration - the previous version was too wobbly.
the latest is using 4 x 20 mm bar; doubled up vertically and seems rigid enough.
The rear stay is fitted so it rests on the caliper - does not impede its operation so don't foresee any problems with that?
Aslo wondeirng whether I need a bar to join up the two stays - my plan is that the wing and the bolts will hold them together.
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pewe
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| posted on 11/12/06 at 02:34 PM |
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I've welded a 3mm thick plate between the two stays just above the hub carrier so the whole issue can still be dismantled without splitting
anything. Did see one that was plated off the third tapping on the carrier but thought that was excessive.
Cheers, Pewe 
PS did you sort out a louvered bonnet or are you still in the market for the one I've got?
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pewe
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| posted on 11/12/06 at 03:20 PM |
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PPS I also rammed some suitable size rod up the inside of the square section stay tube and then welded it and drilled through it to stop it crushing
when bolted up
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steve m
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| posted on 11/12/06 at 07:37 PM |
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Well,
My original , non patended, stays are still on my car, have never broken, and i stood on the mudgaurd earlier this evning to get somthing off the top
shelf, (im a short git) , and jumped down, and the mudgaurd bounced a couple of times and relaxed itself, all back to normal like me
so payments donated to my bank account will get the required drawings, and spec !!!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 11/12/06 at 09:20 PM |
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And I have the same design of stays (blatently copied from Steve) and they've lasted nearly 2000 miles with no
signs of distress (touch wood).
Not sure I'd want to stand on mine though - I'm just a wee bit larger than Steve! 
David
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C10CoryM
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| posted on 12/12/06 at 01:30 AM |
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Anyone ever tried a cable to take the up the slack? Connected at the top, and the inside of the stay and cinched up it would take the shock load of
the outside of the wing trying to dip. Thats probably the load that fatigues the stays I would guess? Could loosen/tighten it as required and if the
cable snapped you would at least get some warning before your wing came off. Also might be able to make them a little lighter  . Haven't
played with this idea much but I think it would work, or at least transfer the loads somewhere you can add some thickness to. Wouldn't want any
welds under the cable though.
Cheers.
 
Rescued attachment stays.JPG
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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02GF74
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| posted on 12/12/06 at 09:41 AM |
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ta for replies - the requirement for my stays is not very rigid (sic) - all they are required to do is survive the journey to SVA retest, 30 odd miles
and it would be nice if they remain intact for the return journey.
My design is like C10CoryM but without the triangulation at the bottom; the idea is that the wing will hold the top of the stays together and bolts at
the other end. Resting the rear stays against the caliper will stop any rotating movement.
I can't see that putting an extra bar near their top is going to add much other than more weight, which is a bad thing especially so far away
from the point of fixing.
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steve m
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| posted on 13/12/06 at 07:11 PM |
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"And I have the same design of stays (blatently copied from Steve) and they've lasted nearly 2000 miles with no
signs of distress (touch wood).
Not sure I'd want to stand on mine though - I'm just a wee bit larger than Steve!
David"
well another satisfied customer !!
and judging by the pics, and text, some if you guys, are over engineering the whole setup, i would bet that, both my wing stays will weigh less than
the "one" in the pic
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 14/12/06 at 04:49 PM |
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While Steve's photographing his, here's my version (pictured below) - this is the driver's side mudguard. This is made from 5mm steel
strip - the funny bend was made with a blowlamp, some brute force and a hammer. The key feature is that one of the stays has 2 holes, so it
isn't going to swivel back and forth. The cross-piece is only there to ensure that the other stay doesn't swivel (I'm not sure
it's needed though). Each fixing hole has a spacer about 15mm thick: mine were turned up on a lathe, but you could use a stack of thick washers.
I know Steve's is slightly different, but the basic principle is the same.
BTW: This is a very convenient arrangement, as you don't have to remove anything else to get the wing off - I took this wing off, took some
photos and put it back, all in less than 5 minutes.
David
 
Rescued attachment mudguard.JPG
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steve m
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| posted on 15/12/06 at 01:57 PM |
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No point in posting a pic. as Daves one is exactley the same as mine without the rear curved bar, both of mine are straight
rear stay has a hole drilled into one end, that goes to the upper caliper bolt, and the front goes to the hole that used to hold the disk splashgaurd
taped out to 10mm
a stay bar welded between them to add some strenght
and that is it, just bend the bars over the wheel, with a 10mm block of wood over the tyre to give clearance (I have only got 4-5 mm, and its not
enough !)
and then araldite the mudgaurd onto the top, wait to dry, then invert the setup
and fiberglass over the bars , thus trapping the bar within a fiberglass sandwich
and there we have a very slimline, areodynamic profile, wing stays, with no mounting holes /bolts, to upset the sva man
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