theconrodkid
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 posted on 31/12/06 at 02:12 PM |
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bondooks
just picked up my nose cone,tried to fit it and the engine is about 2" too high.
lowering the lump is out of the question so whats the best way to make a bulge in top of said nose cone,bonnet i dont have,lt,l prob be ally so not a
prob at the mo.
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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macnab
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| posted on 31/12/06 at 03:13 PM |
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get a block of polystyrene foam, the white stuff. Then carve the shape of the bulge. A hot knife can be used to smooth, but not to hot!
Once happy paint with white wood glue (the barrier), then melt some candle wax in a pot and give the mould a coat all over with a brush.
next get some glass cloth (halfords etc) and lay on one layer of that (do this in the house as its to cold outside). Once cured rub down smooth,
depending on how good you did, finish off the outside with some body filler. Finally pour hot water over it so the wax melts and the mould falls off.
trim & paint to suit...
[Edited on 31/12/06 by macnab]
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 31/12/06 at 03:59 PM |
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cheers dude
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Humbug
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| posted on 31/12/06 at 04:53 PM |
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Depending on the effect you are looking for and your confidence with making the bulge, you could avoid the bulge by raising the nose cone like I did:
pieces of 30mm x 30mm x3mm ali U channel at the sides and under the bottom of the nose
 
Rescued attachment nose cone infill piece.JPG
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 31/12/06 at 06:26 PM |
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well i never noticed that!!!!,looks like a better plan of attack
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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macnab
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 posted on 31/12/06 at 07:11 PM |
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ah very sneaky! just paint that wee bit blue and you'd never know. Bit of good lateral thinking there.
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paulf
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| posted on 31/12/06 at 09:05 PM |
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Sounds like exactly the same problem I have with the zetec i am trying to fit.Have you shortened the sump ? if so by how much?
I have decided that it is going to fit one way or another and am going to bolt it in and then make the body work fit afterwards. I was going to cut
the nosecone and make a bulge etc but may try this method also. post a few pics when it is fitted as im sure a lot of other people are having the same
problem.
Paul.
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GeoffT
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| posted on 1/1/07 at 12:37 AM |
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Can't you loose a bit of height on the engine - looks like 'forgetting' to fit the top cambelt cover might save you an inch...
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 1/1/07 at 06:15 AM |
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Paul,ive got an escort sump and about 4 inches ground clearance,sump guard is nearly done,Geoff,i could loose the top but all you need is a few stones
etc and you loose an engine
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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dnmalc
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| posted on 1/1/07 at 05:52 PM |
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If you raise the nose cone as humbug suggests surely you will expose the bottom tubes. Is this acceptable for the SVA or will it then fail on radii
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Humbug
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 10:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by GeoffT
Can't you loose a bit of height on the engine - looks like 'forgetting' to fit the top cambelt cover might save you an inch...
I did that as well (as you have seen, Geoff! - in fact it might have been you who suggested it to me).
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Humbug
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 10:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dnmalc
If you raise the nose cone as humbug suggests surely you will expose the bottom tubes. Is this acceptable for the SVA or will it then fail on radii
You're right - the bottom rail is exposed and you can see the bottom front wishbone bolts. I did this after SVA, so not a problem, but I have now
put nut covers on the bolt heads, and I don't think the bottom rail would be reachable by the SVA man's cone as the cone is too
upright.
 
Rescued attachment front.JPG
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Bob C
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 10:58 PM |
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SVA have a 30degree from vertical cone to say what's "under the car" & can be made out of razor blades - bottom tubes are
probably exempt.
Bob
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