auzziejim
|
| posted on 22/6/03 at 06:52 PM |
|
|
How many Rivets?
how often do i need to rivet my floor then guys? i bought a 2 handed riveter today and 600 rivets so thats now the first job
Cheers
James
|
|
|
|
|
Viper
|
| posted on 22/6/03 at 07:41 PM |
|
|
How often? only once i would hope....
or do you mean the spacing? i done mone every 2"
|
|
|
auzziejim
|
| posted on 22/6/03 at 10:29 PM |
|
|
so if i rivet ever 2 inches that will suffice? right lets get to work! now where did i leave my drill?, LOL
Cheers
James
|
|
|
marshall
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 07:30 AM |
|
|
have fun riviting hope you have got a lot of drill bits becouse they go blunt quick.
i when throught a lotso make shaw you have got a good stock
|
|
|
marshall
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 07:31 AM |
|
|
have fun riviting hope you have got a lot of drill bits becouse they go blunt quick.
i went throught a lot so make shaw you have got a good stock
|
|
|
MustangSix
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 02:28 PM |
|
|
I spaced my rivets every 2". I also used a urethane adhesive to bond the panel in place.
The adhesive not only helps hold the panel, but it really killed a lot of noise and the panels are now sealed as well.
Be sure to use gloves when working with the glue. It is sticky, nasty stuff that takes days to wear off.
|
|
|
auzziejim
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 03:06 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by MustangSix
Be sure to use gloves when working with the glue. It is sticky, nasty stuff that takes days to wear off.
The voice of experience then mustang? 
|
|
|
kingr
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 03:32 PM |
|
|
While we're on the subject, does anyone know a good (cheap) place to get stainless rivets?
Kingr
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 03:43 PM |
|
|
hope you have got a lot of drill bits because they go blunt quick
Sharpen them up on the bench grinder with a lesser angle and they last for ages. I think it's the ali that blunts them more than the steel. You
don't get as much of a burr on the back of the ali either. If you break one, use the broken bit and sharpen that up, I've got the one that
I did all the panels with and it's still usable.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 03:54 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Sharpen them up on the bench grinder with a lesser angle and they last for ages. I think it's the ali that blunts them more than the steel.
Ali doesn't directly blunt the drill bit (or any cutting tool) but builds up a deposit on the cutting edge that's very difficult to
remove. A good cutting fluid helps a lot by preventing the deposit settling, but choose one that's non-corrosive (some are). Failing anything
else, WD40 is fairly good, but only if you're not painting that area later. Plain old paraffin is also very good, but does attract water that
can/will cause rust later.
Try filing ali - you'll see what I'm on about! The file will clog up in seconds, but spraying it with some cutting fluid will stop it
almost completely. Now imagine that the drill bit is just 2 of the file's cutting edges...
Pete's right in what he says about drill cutting angles - when you buy the bits they're ground for steel. Ali likes a fine cutting edge
(to get the swarf away from the cutting edge) while brass likes a 90-degree edge (otherwise it digs in).
Trouble is, re-grinding a 1/8" drill bit accurately is an art...
cheers,
DJ
[Edited on 23/6/03 by David Jenkins]
|
|
|
MustangSix
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 04:53 PM |
|
|
I had black, glue covered fingers for four days until the underlying skin wore off!
I dunno about in the UK, but here they sell contractor packs of 1/8" bits very cheap. I bought 10-packs for about five dollars each.
Sharpening 1/8" bits isn't cost or time effective. As it was, they lasted a fair amount of time. I only used two or three to do a
hundred holes.
|
|
|
Stu16v
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 07:12 PM |
|
|
Another tip...Slide a piece of tight fittng flexible pipe over drill bit, allowing about 1/2 inch protrusion (or wind some tape aropund the drill bit
to do the same). This will prevent you 'bottoming out' on the other side of the RHS, which also causes the bit to blunt quickly.
HTH Stu.
Dont just build it.....make it!
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 23/6/03 at 07:16 PM |
|
|
I use a £5 drill sharpening jig that pushes them up to the side of the fine wheel on my bench grinder. 2 turns on the little thumbscrew and they are
good as new. The angle is altered by a wingnut(me)  .
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
GasGasGas
|
| posted on 5/7/03 at 07:10 PM |
|
|
Drilling Ali??
just grazed thru the thread and thought i'd put me pennworth in, Aluminium is very soft and sticky to hss blades , best thing is to use a
non-stick coating on your bits, best thing to date buy Titanium Nitride coated bits, best thing since teflon for turning hss non-stick 
Happy perforating!!
[Edited on 5/7/03 by GasGasGas]
|
|
|
eddie
|
| posted on 9/7/03 at 10:04 PM |
|
|
call me a crazy mad fool, but does no one use good old fashioned steel seam welded in as a floor?
Please feel free in advance to: correct, update, ridicule or laugh and point at any comments made by myself in this post....
|
|
|
paulbeyer
|
| posted on 9/7/03 at 11:26 PM |
|
|
My MK Indy chassis does. Bought it 10 months ago.
7 out of 10 people suffer with hemorrhoids. Does that mean the other 3 enjoy them?
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 10/7/03 at 10:02 AM |
|
|
Good old 16g steel floor. No need to seam weld, a 2 inch tack every 4 inch or so. Drop your chassis on 8x4 sheet and draw round it, cut out with angle
grinder, sit in it and weld round yourself .
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
Jasper
|
| posted on 10/7/03 at 03:26 PM |
|
|
Yup, that's what I did, very nice too.
And I also second the use of PU sealant on all panels too, will stop the rivets rattling loose.
|
|
|
fastavatar.jpg){kind=avatar}
