redeye
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 07:04 AM |
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alu side panels
im thinking of getting the alu for the sides of my book chassis soon and was wondering what experiance others have had?
would i be better asking the suppliers to cut the alu for me if i give them the dimensions?
also i would like to have the side panels as one piece like the fibreglass ones
how do get the alu to fold around the curve at the back where the rear wheel arches sit?
an help appreciated
cheers
[Edited on 14/8/03 by redeye]
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 07:49 AM |
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I made patterns for both the side panels and the rear panel. Cutting the ali is relatively easy if done slowly and with some lubrication for the
cutting blade. Try and clamp the panel to a firm base with a raised straight edge for the jig saw to follow.
As for the back panel, there is much advice on this list and the yahoo list regarding annealing the ali, which makes it softer and easy to bend. I
tried all sorts of methods to try and anneal the ali and it made no difference. In the end, I cut the rear panel, and then bent it to shape using
rope. Once the panel was in position, I gently heated it several times and the bends became permanent.
Good Luck!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 07:53 AM |
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The only advice I can offer is to make card patterns as Ian suggested. This reduces the risk of wasting alu.
Also, use offcuts to try out annealing, bending, and fastening BEFORE you try it out on the car. I didn't, and regretted it.
Apart from that, just go ahead and try it - it's the best (and only) way to learn!
cheers,
David
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Stu16v
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 09:13 AM |
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I must of been lucky, I had no trouble at all doing the back panel (or my scuttle, which is in a similar vein). As the others have said, cut out
cardboard templates as accurately as possible, and then transfer it to the aluminium. I then affixed the panels over a period of two nights. On night
one, the panel was aligned centrally on the car, and the flat portion sikaflexed and clamped into position, and the upper and lower edges of the panel
'rolled over' (p.s. its handy to have an extra pair of hands, plenty of clamps and lengths of wood to avoid damage to the ali). I then
went home and drunk some Stella (optional). The next night I removed all of the clamps etc, and easily bent the corner sections round by hand, again
Sikaflexing the panel to chassis and folding edges round.
It was the one job I wasnt looking forward to, but it really was quite simple.
P.s. if using a jigsaw to cut, use a couple of layers of masking tape to draw your patterns out onto the aluminium, and to cut through, which will
prevent the jigsaw marking the ali, especially if you want to polish up after.
HTH Stu.
Dont just build it.....make it!
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redeye
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 09:33 AM |
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cheers guy
i think ill make a template and give it to the suppliers
dont have anything to cut it myself with
sorry was a unclear about one of my questions
i already have the back panel from mk (fibreglass)
the reason for the alu sides is that i have had to modify the top rails for the engine bay to fit the pinto in
the curve i was talkin about is the one on the side of the cockpit that come from below the rollbar to the cockpit sides
cheers
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 09:34 AM |
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the soap and blowtorch method works great on 3003 grade alu - did you have the wrong grade?
I have managed to form flanged openings in flat sheet this way....a std body should be simple!
atb
steve
quote:
Originally posted by Ian Pearson
I made patterns for both the side panels and the rear panel. Cutting the ali is relatively easy if done slowly and with some lubrication for the
cutting blade. Try and clamp the panel to a firm base with a raised straight edge for the jig saw to follow.
As for the back panel, there is much advice on this list and the yahoo list regarding annealing the ali, which makes it softer and easy to bend. I
tried all sorts of methods to try and anneal the ali and it made no difference. In the end, I cut the rear panel, and then bent it to shape using
rope. Once the panel was in position, I gently heated it several times and the bends became permanent.
Good Luck!
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Peteff
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 10:22 AM |
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I used a drill powered nibbler for all my panel cutting. Keep the cut line oiled and they work really well, sweep the toenail clippings up after
though as they are sharp . I used a ratchet strap to bend the bonnet before the engine went in, a bit more controllable than rope. The bit you are
showing on the side I made the top arc with some 1" flat and welded 20g steel in to fill the hole as most of that will be under the rear wing
when you fit it.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 11:29 AM |
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I used a hand powered nibbler.
Some people are such wimps! 
Time consuming, but you can get a decent job, about 6mm cut length per operation.
Machine mart, about 7 quid.
There may be much better ways, but thats what I did.
A nibbler is great for cutting difficult large radius holes.
atb
steve
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JoelP
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 03:54 PM |
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Damn it! I was gonna get a nibbler but i thought it wouldnt work well! So i wasted about 550 bucks on a cursed plasma cutter that i havent made work
yet!
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 07:00 PM |
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a. im sure a plasma cutter would be better used correctly and
b. since when has leeds dealt in dollars?
atb
steve
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JoelP
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 08:09 PM |
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quote:
b. since when has leeds dealt in dollars?
British books.... a few of Ms. Blytons finest, straight from a library..!
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redeye
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| posted on 14/8/03 at 11:53 PM |
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cheers fellas
i see what you all mean now
the rear arches cover this area so there is no need to cover it with alu (duh)
i was thinkin along the lines of the mk fibre glass side panels as these cover the rear wing support.
i havent got any rear wing supports yet but im plannin on gettin them made tomorrow.
as foe the book showing the side panels being made in two parts (i dont like)
what are your viems on this?
two parts or one?
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Peteff
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| posted on 15/8/03 at 12:00 AM |
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Two piece side panels.
If it's a locost it has to have two piece side panels, otherwise you will have to buy two more sheets of aluminium, do the maths.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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redeye
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| posted on 15/8/03 at 11:47 AM |
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what makes u think that?
the area of alu will still be the same if it is on two parts or one
i just dont want a line of rivits down the side of my car
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Peteff
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| posted on 15/8/03 at 06:49 PM |
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you're right.
I've just measured and if you use 2440x1220 sheet you might get away with it. To go right up to the nose takes 2220mm, the sheet is 2440mm. My
boot is approx a 2metre length as well and the bonnet took most of a 2x1. My sheets were 2x1 metre as I don't mind the rivets, everybody knows
what holds it together anyway. I didn't panel all the way to the nosecone as it seems a waste to me, just went as far as the back of the top
wishbone, it lets the rad breathe better as well.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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redeye
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| posted on 15/8/03 at 10:45 PM |
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it is only the side panels i need anyway
i have a fibre glass rear panel and bonnet
cheers for the help guys
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Spyderman
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| posted on 18/8/03 at 11:03 PM |
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If you do the sides in one length of Ali, it will make it difficult when you need to cut the holes for the exhaust.
Spyderman
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