carpmart
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 09:40 AM |
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Aerodynamic aid for front?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330165857105&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=014
Guys
My Fisher Fury gets a bit 'light' at the front at 'cough' high speed and I was looking for an aerodynamic solution to provide
a bit more downforce at the front. I would like peoples views/experience as to whether thy think this will have a positive effect?
Thanks
Harvey
Any other 'elegant' solution?
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack 
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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hobbsy
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 09:42 AM |
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Mine feels a bit light as well but I'm mostly used to it now.
I have seen people fit front splitters to them that goes the length of the car.
Let me know if you find anything suitable.
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twybrow
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 09:47 AM |
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I would think it would be difficult to get any bolt on parts that make a significant difference without a lot of wind tunnel/setup costs. Those
canards look pretty small - would they really make an appreciable difference? Why not make some MDF wings etc and try them?
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carpmart
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 09:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by hobbsy
Mine feels a bit light as well but I'm mostly used to it now.
I have seen people fit front splitters to them that goes the length of the car.
Let me know if you find anything suitable.
Agreed in so much as I am used to it as well but would like it to feel a bit more planted.
The RGB boys have a lot of different splitters that they use but I still have the tilt on my bonnet so am restricted by the ground clearance when I
raise the bonnet. Have you seen any suitable splitter which can be fitted and still raise the bonnet?
Will let you know how I get on!
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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carpmart
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 10:03 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
I would think it would be difficult to get any bolt on parts that make a significant difference without a lot of wind tunnel/setup costs. Those
canards look pretty small - would they really make an appreciable difference? Why not make some MDF wings etc and try them?
Good shout re the MDF! I am re-working the bonnet at the moment so would be happy with some fiberglass work to incorporate an 'off the
shelf' splitter. Any ideas regarding this?
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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Vindi_andy
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 10:03 AM |
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try having a word with furoserie on pistonheads head may be able to design something for you that you can then build
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nib1980
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 10:12 AM |
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how about a 30 kg mass mounted on the front? stop it being light  
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carpmart
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 10:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Vindi_andy
try having a word with furoserie on pistonheads head may be able to design something for you that you can then build
Who is furoserie? Do you have an email address or something you can U2U me?
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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carpmart
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 10:20 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nib1980
how about a 30 kg mass mounted on the front? stop it being light
Already have a pinto up front so don't want to add anymore weight! 
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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RazMan
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 10:53 AM |
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I can't really see those canards giving much downforce really ...... except on your bank balance More of a fashion accessory imo
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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twybrow
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 11:27 AM |
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How about using MDF + car body filler. Cut, fill, smooth etc, then bolt/rivet in place. Make a series of different sizes/shapes and see how they feel.
Once you have an idea as to what works, recrate it in GRP (or carbon if feeling flush). It will be a simple shape so should be able to blend it in
quite nicely with existing bodywork.
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twybrow
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 11:27 AM |
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How about using MDF + car body filler. Cut, fill, smooth etc, then bolt/rivet in place. Make a series of different sizes/shapes and see how they feel.
Once you have an idea as to what works, recreate it in GRP (or carbon if feeling flush). It will be a simple shape so should be able to blend it in
quite nicely with existing bodywork.
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Howlor
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 11:38 AM |
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They can also be C'anard to fit!
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caber
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 11:49 AM |
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How about the Lotus designed ones like my Avatar ? MDF ones will keep the front down with their weight!
Caber
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Rob Palin
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 12:13 PM |
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Please don't put those things on your car. Pretty please?
Whilst they might well actually solve your problem, the way they'll do it won't be very elegant at all.
The two main sources of front lift on a Fury are air rushing up the front face of the front wheels due to insufficient shielding of them by the
tapered bumper and insufficient ducting of cooling airflow from the nose intake to the radiator.
The first one is harder to fix and can be done by extending the lower outboard edges of the bumper outwards so that you can't see as much of the
tyres when viewed from the front. And/or you can fit little vertical fences in front of the wheelarches like you'll see on many road cars these
days - particularly the German ones. These also restrict the flow of air up the front of the wheels, and hence reduce both front lift and drag.
The cooling thing is easier to fix. Just make sure that any and all air entering the bumper aperture has absolutely no choice but to go through the
radiator matrix. If it is given any opportunity to do otherwise it will do, since the journey through the radiator is deeply unpleasant for it.
Since this air will be at a relatively very high pressure, allowing any of it to bleed into the engine bay area will cause a change in the pressure
difference between the upper & lower surfaces of the bonnet. Being a chuffing great big surface area it doesn't take much of a perssure
difference to generate a big force and there you have your extra lift. Alternatively, if you want/need to use some 'blow-by' to provide
direct cooling of the engine/alternator/whatever, then put some louvres in the bonnet surface to allow any pressure build-up to be released.
Hope this helps.
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hobbsy
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 12:26 PM |
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I was planning to make a radiator duct out of some of that lightweight but strong corrugated plastic sheeting. Just got to make it butt up as close
as possible without fouling anything when opening closing bonnet.
Wheelarch mods sound interesting but like you say more fiddly to do.
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hobbsy
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 12:32 PM |
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I've also got small small cut outs on the rear edge of my bonnet bulge which I think help a little bit because they let the air out. I know a
lot of people don't bother cutting these out as its quite fiddly.
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carpmart
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 12:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rob Palin
Please don't put those things on your car. Pretty please?
Whilst they might well actually solve your problem, the way they'll do it won't be very elegant at all.
The two main sources of front lift on a Fury are air rushing up the front face of the front wheels due to insufficient shielding of them by the
tapered bumper and insufficient ducting of cooling airflow from the nose intake to the radiator.
The first one is harder to fix and can be done by extending the lower outboard edges of the bumper outwards so that you can't see as much of the
tyres when viewed from the front. And/or you can fit little vertical fences in front of the wheelarches like you'll see on many road cars these
days - particularly the German ones. These also restrict the flow of air up the front of the wheels, and hence reduce both front lift and drag.
The cooling thing is easier to fix. Just make sure that any and all air entering the bumper aperture has absolutely no choice but to go through the
radiator matrix. If it is given any opportunity to do otherwise it will do, since the journey through the radiator is deeply unpleasant for it.
Since this air will be at a relatively very high pressure, allowing any of it to bleed into the engine bay area will cause a change in the pressure
difference between the upper & lower surfaces of the bonnet. Being a chuffing great big surface area it doesn't take much of a perssure
difference to generate a big force and there you have your extra lift. Alternatively, if you want/need to use some 'blow-by' to provide
direct cooling of the engine/alternator/whatever, then put some louvres in the bonnet surface to allow any pressure build-up to be released.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for this great advice!
Harvey
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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martyn_16v
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 02:49 PM |
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Making little 'speedflaps' in front of the wheels shouldn't be all that difficult. I did it on my MR2
(like this), it's fairly effective
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chriscook
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 06:41 PM |
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I was just about to say wait until Rob Palin comes along for some professional advice - then I read his message
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adithorp
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 10:29 PM |
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I'd go with baffleing the rad intake, undertray/flat bottom the engine bay, vent air via the tunnel/bonnet vents/through side pods and if that
fails a front splitter.
http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/showProduct.asp?prodID=93
What ever you do let me know if it works because I'm going to have the same problem!
ps. did you get the u2u?
adrian
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Rob Palin
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 07:23 AM |
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I'd be a bit wary of fitting a big splitter like this. It would dramatically reduce front lift, sure, but since the original problem
isn't fixed you're generating downforce to counter-act lift and you have to pay a penalty in drag for both, not just one. It's
better to treat the origin of the lift problem than to try to overpower it.
Plus, Furys have a reasonable amount of rear lift too, but this is masked because the front is so high (imagine a see-saw tilted back). As you reduce
the front lift you allow the rear lift to become more prominent and so fitting something as powerful as that big splitter should really require some
attention to be paid to the rear too. That's a lot harder though, because of the open cockpit. It's probably best to just calm the front
down a bit, but not go over the top.
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adithorp
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 12:26 PM |
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yeah I can see that which is why it was the "...if all else fails" option...and the cost!
adrian
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