ned
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 01:06 PM |
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which rust preventative paint?
I'm hoping by the end of next week I'll be ready to paint my chassis.
I was going to buy the por15 rust preventative paint (£22 litre - see www.frost.co.uk)
I know that red oxide is good stuff and cheaper (from screwfix)
Are there any others I should be considering?
I'm basically after one that's easy to put on and looks smooth ie doesn't show brush marks as I'll proably be brush/painting
it on.
thanks,
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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Simon
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 01:44 PM |
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Ned,
I know others on here may not agree with my choice of paints (Hammerite Smooth), but the application method may be of interest.
I, like you, wanted no brush marks, so used a "brush on" first. When that had nearly dried, I went over with an aerosol to smooth it
over.
Seems to have worked a treat
HTH
ATB
Simon
PS - I have had it chipping, but only where I've banged the chassis top rails with an engine. Oops
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rell
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 01:55 PM |
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I have had my chassis shot blasted so it has a very good key for the paint it all so get rid of eney rust.
Then i used a two pack epoxy etching primer this is very very hard wearing (chip and scrach resistent) and will resist most chemicals eg petrol.
all so eney rivet i will de puting in will be diped in epoxy resin to seal the hole, messy i know but worth it i think?
I have use screwfix red oxide primer on a I beem it dose not go on well with a brush
I do not know how well epoxy primer will go on with a brush because i sprayed it on (i think it's worth it for the better finish)
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ned
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 02:26 PM |
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i'm cleaning the chassis up with 'the tool' (angle grinder wire cup) so that should give it a good key. i may well borrow my
dad's compressor and air gun and do it with that, will give a better finish? just haven't used it before....
any tips!
thanks,
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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sebastiaan
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 02:38 PM |
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If you are in a position where you have the choice between brushing and spray painting, I'd go (and did!) for the latter. Beeing a n00bie to
spray painting myself, the first components i did where the pedals / wishbones / etc. Figured out how to use the spray gun in about 15 mins. ( i know,
it's only base coat so getting a decent surface texture might be a lot harder but we have all got to start somewhere, don't we?)
BTW, i'm using a german product called "allgrund". Seems to work OK for now and is 18 euro's per 0,75 litre.
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 02:42 PM |
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POR 15 won't leave brush marks if you follow the directions.
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 02:44 PM |
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if you are panelling the inside of the car, very little of the space frame is on show.......
the household gloss I used (as have others) leaves no discernable marks on 1 inch tubes...
atb
steve
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timf
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 02:45 PM |
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but you must use the por metal prep stuff for it to work properly. ps it needs to be overpainted as well as its not uv stable
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timf
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 02:56 PM |
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alternativly try this stuff
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/t/TORARDBC/
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James
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 02:58 PM |
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Surrey Dave told me he very effectively prevented brush marks using a small roller!
I haven't got round to trying it yet but I have liberated a nice roller from my parents! 
James
[Edited on 17/9/03 by James]
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ned
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 02:59 PM |
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can i use the por15 chassis black on top of red oxide without problems? i was planning on using this stuff on the uprights etc
someone at the show was talking about using the rubbery stuff you get in tins as people put inside wheell arches etc. any comments on this? (not for
painting chassis, but for suspension components)
thanks again (and again)
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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Jon Bradbury
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 03:14 PM |
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I've used a spray primer from Halfords called plasi-kote (its acrylic I believe) which sticks like the proverbial and has a good mat finish.
Despite not putting more than a patchy coat on the mild steel parts of my car, none of it has rusted.
However, if I had a mild steel chassis like yours, I'd get it powder coated (costs about £80) or better still electroplated. Can't beat that
shiny gold finish - see picture below, these are my front wishbones, cost £25 to get done at my local friendly electoplating firm. The finish is tough
as old boots, much stronger than any paint coating.
 
Rescued attachment plated_wishbones.jpg
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 03:18 PM |
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If you use anything as a base coat, POR 15 will peel off. Go to their website and have a look at the FAQ section and it'll tell you how to use
it. I used the wheel arch wubbery stuff for the under side of the chassis.
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locoboy
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 03:57 PM |
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For tried and tested rust prevention you cant beat the stuff we sell at work.................marine paint!
We sell the complete range of Jotun Yachting paints for GRP, Steel, Wood and Ferrocement, along with all the varnishes and preservative oils.
The only thing i would say is that it is not really high on the chip resistance scale, its not low by any means. I have painted my front uprights and
steering arms with it and dont have any chips apart from dropping a spanner on it.
The undercoat (vinyl primer) is 4.50 for a 750ml tin, the topcoat is (Top One, single pack) is 8.70 for a 750ml tin.
It brushes on very smoothly indeed and has a high gloss finish. It can be sprayed with conventional or airless spray or brished or rollers on. Best
results are sprayed. ( i brushed mine on)
Let me know if you want any (those prices are cost) Carriage will be extra. I live in Telford if anyone wants to collect though.
Cheers
Colin
ATB
Locoboy
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JoelP
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 05:12 PM |
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cool, i'm building a boat soon so you may well get a call from me. Got to finish the car first or stick to a small boat.
Got ideas for a 16ft speeder...!
do u supply all the different layers including anti fouling and is there a company website for info?
Thanks. Joel
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 05:53 PM |
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What ever paint you use, you cannot beat a good 2K acid etch primer, it cab be sprayed or brushed or even wiped on with an absorbent cloth. It has
zero build, but eats into the steel and provides an excellent key for any subsequent primers or top coats. If you are brush painting, get some
synthetic and brush that. It is much higher quality than household gloss and has greater coverage. It dries with similar characteristics to normal
2K.
If your paint coverage is good, corrosion will not be a problem.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 08:27 PM |
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quote:
The only thing i would say is that it is not really high on the chip resistance scale, its not low by any means. I have painted my front uprights and
steering arms with it and dont have any chips apart from dropping a spanner on it.
I painted my uprights with POR 15 about 2 years ago. They've been bounced around several garages, had stuff dropped on them, been dropped and
not a chip in sight. However, I have had it peel off like orange peel, because I didn't prepare the surface properly.
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Sideways 2 Victory
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| posted on 18/9/03 at 08:00 AM |
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I vote Palstikote too -
Bought a luverly cylinder head from vulcan, asked what colour - I said blue and he said they used this stuff. Tuned up and had a really nice, tough
finish.
You can buy it in B&Q, Halfrauds etc
So I bought some more to do the ancilliaries/bits n bobs I wanted in body colour. It works well with properly clean metal.
ATB
Dave
www.nurburgring.org
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spy
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| posted on 18/9/03 at 01:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
What ever paint you use, you cannot beat a good 2K acid etch primer, it cab be sprayed or brushed or even wiped on with an absorbent cloth. It has
zero build, but eats into the steel and provides an excellent key for any subsequent primers or top coats. If you are brush painting, get some
synthetic and brush that. It is much higher quality than household gloss and has greater coverage. It dries with similar characteristics to normal
2K.
If your paint coverage is good, corrosion will not be a problem.
Mark, what would you recommend I can prime my roll bar with? (I want to avoid the 'dreaded' 2k paints). Can you get single pack etch
primers, is one brand better than another?
cheers
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 18/9/03 at 05:12 PM |
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I would use a 2K acid etch, you can quite safely brush it on as non of the product is then airborne. It is VERY thin and goes on like yellow milk, it
is virtually transparent and just seems to darken the surface of the metal, but it makes a hell of a difference to any subsequent paints that are
applied. (you can even wipe the stuff on with a J cloth!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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PaulBuz
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| posted on 18/9/03 at 05:43 PM |
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Hi Mark
Whilst shopping around for a suitable primer , I was offered 'Airo wash primer'
The chap assured me that it was etch primer.
Any thoughts
ATB
Paul
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Rorty
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| posted on 19/9/03 at 02:47 AM |
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Jon Bradbury:
quote:
Can't beat that shiny gold finish
That gold passivated zinc or cadmium finish on your wishbones etc is a sacrificial coating. It will therefore degrade over time.
The best finish of all, would be to plate the items first, and then paint or powder coat over the top.
Don't get your fasteners/critical parts plated this way, unless you have them post treated. Plated items can suffer failure due to hydrogen
embrittlement.
I only buy plated fasteners that are certified post treated.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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spy
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| posted on 19/9/03 at 01:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
I would use a 2K acid etch, you can quite safely brush it on as non of the product is then airborne. It is VERY thin and goes on like yellow milk, it
is virtually transparent and just seems to darken the surface of the metal, but it makes a hell of a difference to any subsequent paints that are
applied. (you can even wipe the stuff on with a J cloth!
cheers, I'll qive it a go.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 19/9/03 at 05:54 PM |
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yes airo wash primer is a chromate etch primer - it is one of the cheaper ones but is OK
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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