muzchap
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 posted on 20/2/08 at 12:42 PM |
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How to measure Driveshaft Requirements?
Hi guys,
Originally, I was going to get MAC#1 to supply these, but luckily, I've managed to locate a pair of driveshafts cheap and will now decide to cut
them down, with a bit of welding (by professionals) to mate the ford end. Therefore, I feel a bit cheeky asking MAC#1 now.
Situation
S2000 Driveshaft = Tripode
Ford = Lobro
Question
How do i accurately measure the length of driveshaft required?
Do I jack up and on full suspension travel measure the fully extended? then measure the car without jacking and ensure that it caters for both - with
the play in the Tripode/Lobro?
Some 'expert' advice appreciated 
Cheers,
M
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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RazMan
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| posted on 20/2/08 at 12:46 PM |
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I did exactly as you described and checked the length at both ends of the suspension travel. The tripod end is a bit forgiving anyway so you just need
to have enough for the splines to be fully engaged.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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muzchap
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| posted on 20/2/08 at 01:20 PM |
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Thanks RazMan
I'll give that a go tonight  - I suppose if I get it wrong, I can re-do it
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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MustangSix
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| posted on 20/2/08 at 03:04 PM |
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The way I've done it on several hot rods is to first verify that the transmission and pinion angles are correct, then put the car at ride
height, fully insert the trans yoke, then pull it out of the trans about 1" (25mm). Then measure the center to center distance between the
u-joints.
The only driveshafts I've ever seen that would require more than 1" of movement at the yoke are some high angle offroad setups and these
cars typically don't have that much fore and aft driveshaft movement.
I've cut and welded shafts successfully several times, but I've found that it's better to simply provide that dimension to the local
driveshaft shop and have them do the welding and balancing. They do a much nicer job on their lathe than I can do in my own shop.
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muzchap
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| posted on 20/2/08 at 04:13 PM |
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Thanks Mustang
I'll give that a go too
Cheers,
Muzchap
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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v8kid
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| posted on 20/2/08 at 05:21 PM |
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Beware of not leaving enough slack since if the driveshafts go solid at both sides, as in accelerating hard the resultantant crushing force will
knacker the CWP in your diff.
Measure the shortest distance and subtract 1/2". In all probability that will give you the same result as the advice above but better safe than
sorry......speaking from bitter experience.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 20/2/08 at 09:53 PM |
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MUZ!!!!
the way to do it is not quite like that!!
You measure it all with the driveshafts at their "shortest" point.
I.e. when they are dead level.
Spec the shaft length so the lobro and tripod are just short of bottoming with the shaft dead level between joints.
Anything else may or may not cause the shaft to bind when its level, you won't know.
The only measurement you need is the shortest shaft length at max plunge on the joints.
On the grassers we measure the distance between the "back" of the lobro cups at each end with shafts level, then subtract 8mm, and
that's the overall shaft length, nothing more needed.
edit PS v8kid is saying the same thing as well.
[Edited on 20/2/08 by NS Dev]
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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muzchap
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| posted on 21/2/08 at 02:51 PM |
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cheers guys - I'm now more worried than ever! LOL
Oh well measure, measure, measure
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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