Valtra
|
 posted on 15/4/08 at 12:26 AM |
|
|
paint how much do I need and any tips
Getting to the point of paint preping and wondering how much I'll need to cover all the body except the wings on a 7 also I know about etch
primer for ally but if ( or rather where) I need to fill some "imperfections" do I fill before the primer or after . Also what paint type
is best for the home spray man . I'm assuming Cellulose rather than 2k or is there a half way house thats tough and easy/ safe to use.
Any contribution greatfully accepted.
Cheers
|
|
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 15/4/08 at 12:50 AM |
|
|
i'll tell you what i think, but they'll be soooooo many different responses and opinions to this question 
i'd fill before primer. depending on how bad these imperfections are. if they're more than a scratch which would show through the paint
the fill first. you can also get a high build (filler) primer which should be sprayed after the etch primer, but it will only really fill scratches
from sanding.
i'd prefer to use cellulose paints. this avoids the cyanide in 2k paint. cellulose is hard to get hold of though, but can be bought on line for
some reason. i went to my local paint supplier today. he said its illegal to sell. but halfords sell it...
bear in mind i've not properly sprayed anything yet though, except a quick shot of some cellulose paint i got in halfords. results were not bad,
and i know part of the reason for my crap finish.
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 15/4/08 at 08:18 AM |
|
|
One tip I definitely give is not to sand the body glass smooth before the primer, doing so will just make the paint more libel to fall off. Sand the
whole body with around 120 grit then prime, this will give the primer a better key and any sanding should be kept within the paint layer. Also let
each layer dry properly, I leave them over night to cure. Forget about shine till the last coat, just build up a good even layer then sand that down
with something like 1200 grit w&d – with a sanding block, push the car outside to look for any patches and then spray a thinned down final coat to
make it gloss.
Painting can not be rushed (especially DIY), do so and you'll be wasting your time and money.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
|
bassett
|
| posted on 15/4/08 at 09:58 AM |
|
|
Sevens bodies arent big so id go for 1-2 litres, probably 2 to be on the safe side. There should be places you can get cellulose paint done as a
professional paint suplly guy near me does them all, as a last resort halfords can mix it for £25 a litre but you might want to call in advance to
check they have enough stock. I think with glass fibre you need to use slightly less cellulose like 40% but check first.
Adam
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 15/4/08 at 08:35 PM |
|
|
Thanks guys all much apreciated
|
|
|
triumphdave
|
| posted on 15/4/08 at 08:50 PM |
|
|
I took the shine off my gel coat before spraying with scotchbright pads and soapy water rather than using wet&dry paper.As Mr Whippy sais let it
dry between coats .Mine has come out a nice shiny black.It was supposed to be flat black .This was due to Too many coats without leaving enough
time between them.I used a gallon of paint,and my side panels and bonnet are not painted
[Edited on 15/4/08 by triumphdave]
If you always do what you have always done you will always get what you have always got
|
|
|
AR-CoolC
|
| posted on 16/4/08 at 09:17 AM |
|
|
www.paints4u.com are very good.
[Edited on 16/4/08 by AR-CoolC]
[Edited on 16/4/08 by AR-CoolC]
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 17/4/08 at 12:42 AM |
|
|
Thanks
Ian
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 17/4/08 at 07:37 PM |
|
|
Flopping a 70% thinner based paint (cellulose) onto gel coat is not a good idea.
I would use a 2 part etch, followed by a polyester high build (no inter flatting), dry flat the HB with 360, followed by a polyester basecoat (1+2+a
drop if metallic) of your chosen colour and nicely topped with a 1k clearcoat. All the above are easily and legally available and not less healthy as
celly.
All painted surfaces to bekeyed with red scotchbrite and any stoppering to be done with plastic padding elastic prior to any painting and graded with
240g before etching.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 17/4/08 at 08:16 PM |
|
|
Thanks Mark
You are the man ! as they say.
Are you sugesting etch primer on the gel coat as well ? or just roughing it up and then HB primer ?
Not Metalic , I'm not that brave .
Have you a generous estimate of quantities of each needed ?
The wings are staying gel colour the flip front (nose/bonet) is gel coat also the scuttle, all the rest is ally
Thanks
Ian
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 17/4/08 at 09:57 PM |
|
|
The etch primer is a VERY thin coat and I would use it everywhere, with 2k iso you could get away with it, but then you would die and it
wouldn't matter.
Metallic is as easy as solid so don't cramp your style, yellow or any of the 'urine yellow pearls' are a real sod as they are
virtually transparent, and may take upto 10 coats to achieve opacity.
0.5l etch
1.0l High build
1.5l colour (3.0l of yellow)
1.5l 1k clear
10 x 340 discs
10 x 240 discs
1.0l spirit wipe
4 x tack rags
2 x 1000 WD Knibbing paper
0.5l Farecla G3
6 x 500ml Carlsberg Export
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 17/4/08 at 10:06 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
The etch primer is a VERY thin coat and I would use it everywhere, with 2k iso you could get away with it, but then you would die and it
wouldn't matter.
Metallic is as easy as solid so don't cramp your style, yellow or any of the 'urine yellow pearls' are a real sod as they are
virtually transparent, and may take upto 10 coats to achieve opacity.
0.5l etch
1.0l High build
1.5l colour (3.0l of yellow)
1.5l 1k clear
10 x 340 discs
10 x 240 discs
1.0l spirit wipe
4 x tack rags
2 x 1000 WD Knibbing paper
0.5l Farecla G3
6 x 500ml Carlsberg Export
is the Carlsberg for thinning purposes ?if not what quantities of what
and are the discs the "red scotchbrite" you mentioned and do they fit a drill , grinder or orbital sander.
Cheers
Ian
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 18/4/08 at 09:50 PM |
|
|
anything to add ?
|
|
|
