theconrodkid
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 11:23 AM |
|
|
sharpish edges
on my bodywork there are "sharp edges" where one piece of ally joins another,ie a step of less than 1mm.
ive tried metal mend and sillycone sealer,none work without leaving a mess.any one got any better ideas?
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
|
|
|
|
|
neilj37
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 11:37 AM |
|
|
Any chance of posting a picture of what you mean.
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 11:37 AM |
|
|
More seriously- are you sure they'll catch that? I would have thought it would be small enough to not count for the radius test...
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 11:41 AM |
|
|
If they're only 1mm proud then they just have to be blunted.
I thought my wiper arms were sharpish and worried about them. They were razor sharp before I took the dremel to them (I cut myself on them). When Mr
SVA looked at them I told him this and he said "Thats the diffinition of blunted. If it doesn't cut you its blunt."
adrian
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 11:57 AM |
|
|
mr sva wants them blunted,and i dont disagree with what he wants,gaffa tape would make it look like a bodge and you could still feel it
underneath,sorry,i,m a numptie and cant post pics
its where 2 panels join,one overlaps the other producing a "step" thats what needs sorting (last item on my sva fail list)
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
|
|
|
loggyboy
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 12:08 PM |
|
|
A jogler could make the panel join flush.
but without seeing exactly where you mean im not sure if it would suit your needs.
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 01:17 PM |
|
|
so one panel overlaps antoher?
is it not possible to cut so that they butt together?
I guess not as well as being painted ....
some sort of flattened aluminium D trim riveted over the top?
but if you can get help with posting a picture, that would help.
can you not get photo onto laptop then use the attachment below?
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 02:15 PM |
|
|
still cant work out how to upload,its the last one in my pic album if someone wants to help me
pic is side vent,other edges are the same
good grief life sized
[Edited on 10/6/08 by theconrodkid]
 
Rescued attachment 000_0160.JPG
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
|
|
|
bob
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 02:57 PM |
|
|
Cut out shape/hole same size as raised vent and fit from inside, raised edges would now be on inside the bonnet 
[Edited on 10/6/08 by bob]
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 04:37 PM |
|
|
phew,its a long walk to the "reply button".
dont really want to chop bonnet around now and some of the other edges cant be done by that method
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
|
|
|
neilj37
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 04:55 PM |
|
|
could you drill out the rivets and just fit some rubber U trim over the edge and re-rivet to get it through SVA
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 06:09 PM |
|
|
looks like last resort,just got to get some 4mm countersunk rivets now
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
|
|
|
Michael
|
| posted on 10/6/08 at 08:55 PM |
|
|
Or could drill out rivets and fit tadpole rubber (like normaly between rear wing and body.
OR even half moon ali strip over step, but mill a step in rear face of strip and bond over step on body.
[Edited on 10/6/08 by Michael]
|
|
|
Mix
|
| posted on 11/6/08 at 03:02 PM |
|
|
Hi
I can't see your pictures so excuse me if I'm talking cr*p.
Run a line of masking tape along the higher edge, run a line of masking tape about 3 or 4mm from the join along the lower surface. put a line of
silicon sealer of an apropriate colour along the join. Run your finger along the join to mould the silicone into a nice fillet, when satisfied with
the result remove the masking tape and hence excess silicone and allow to dry.
Regards Mick
|
|
|
