locoboy
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 06:13 AM |
|
|
Waxoyl experiences wanted.
Im thinking about waxoyling the Pug 205, just because im probably going to keep it for a long time.
It has a tiny amount of rust in the rear quarter in front of the wheel arch down low.
As its stripped out inside i can see in the 'v' of the rear quarter where the water has been collecting and where it has started to rust a
bit from the inside out.
Has anyone used waxoyl on their car and how have you found its application and its performance.
does it stop existing rust getting any worse?
Or do you need to remove any exixsing rust then apply it?
Thanks
ATB
Locoboy
|
|
|
|
|
Davey D
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 07:04 AM |
|
|
The worst experience of Waxoyl i know of is one of my friends...
He was warming it up with a heat gun, so it was runny enough to spray.. he turned the canister over to check the consistency, then turned it back
over.. with that a big bubble of it exploded out of the top, and went all over him... It ended up burning all the skin on his face, burned most of his
hair off, and then as he went running inside to get cold water on his face the rest of the waxoyl caught fire from the heat gun, and burned out the
garage   he had to have a lot of skin grafts in the end... So be very carefull if your going this route.
I have always used the stuff that you paint on... but it never sets hard, and if you are working on that area again, it can get a bit messy, and rub
off onto your hands, and clothes
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 07:21 AM |
|
|
I think this is worth a read. Been posted several times but still funny...
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=95004
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
mr henderson
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 09:05 AM |
|
|
I think Waxoyl is the best rust preventer that I know of.
The function of any rust preventer is to form a vapour and waterproof skin over the metal being protected.
The whole point of the stuff is that it doesn't set hard. That's exactly what makes it ideal for the job. Coatings that set hard tend to
be brittle and will often crack and allow moisture inside, Waxoyl clings on and will even creep over scratches that happen after it's been
applied.
I don't have shares in the stuff, but do have a big tin of the clear and another of the black in my workshop.
John
|
|
|
motorcycle_mayhem
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 09:45 AM |
|
|
Used it on a Hillman Imp, many years back, certainly made the car outlast most of the others over the years.
I now regularly inject the chassis of the Land Rover I totally rebuilt 10 years back (wow, that long ago..) - it's still rust-free.
I wouldn't use it on anything that you intend welding, do all that sort of thing before you inject it. It makes welding repair difficult - and
you get the added bonus of a fire inside inner/outer panels...
I use a proper compressor-fed application device (basically a heavy duty pot and a flexible lance), bought at a kit car meeting for about 40 quid or
so. The DIY garden sprayer job isn't too good.
Thin with white spirit, do it on a hot, dry day. Take the Pug to a campsite in Spain?
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 10:06 AM |
|
|
I’ve been using it for ages. I applied over 20ltrs on the bluebird alone plus spray cans for the difficult to reach bits. Can’t beat the stuff but
would not recommend using it on bare steel or on rust, especially heavy rust that is not utterly dry, infact it can make matters worse by sealing in
the moisture and it goes on eating the car without you knowing about it.
I put the car in the garage for a while so that it is totally dry, even use a fan heater blowing onto the bottom of the car till the surface is hot to
the touch. This drys out the box sections so you can coat them inside. I also use a bit of white spirit mixed in to the underseal and heat sealed the
can up in a bucket of hot water, this makes it coat much better. In a few hours it will have hardened and a second or more coat can be applied.
The spray can stuff is superb for spraying up in to the strut area and coating the springs and it goes quite hard. Clear type never sets so is no use
underneath but is ok for in doors etc. Don’t put anything under the bonnet, it will only melt and may catch fire. I found the hand pump sprayers
rather rubbish tbo, a waste of money really as the spray pattern is hopeless and they just keep blocking. For the sill my strategy was to plug the
drainage hole with bluetac, then using a convenient hole empty 5ltrs of very hot underseal into each sill and then go for a blast round the
countryside! That way it sloshes around and coats the sill, when back just pull of the bluetac and drain the excess. Well worth it as if done properly
and regularly the car will simply not rust. If you intend on keeping the car then do it.
Only downside is my garage tends to look like a tar pit afterwards
[Edited on 9/9/08 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
|
MikeR
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 11:20 AM |
|
|
i'd second mr whippy's comments. Did a mini years ago.
Always used to do it on a sunday (only driven during the week) and when it was the middle of summer (when we had hot summers).
The car lasted for years.
Few years later did a skoda. Guess it wasn't completely dry as it rusted in strange ways. The suspicion was the rust continued under the waxoyl.
Issue with waxoyl i've read is that it does dry out, when its dry then its just a thick coating that can crack. The best solution is to find a
grease thats 'set' at up to 80 degrees. Heat it up, spray it on and it will set, but not dry, therefore won't crack. The smell you
get from waxoyl is the agent that makes it liquid evaporating slowly. Saw something on the web about a month ago about this where a german magazine
did a test over a year of different products, waxoyl did well, but no where near as well as what i've just suggested. Shame you can't get
it over here.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 01:24 PM |
|
|
Cavity spraying ----
(1) Get a 5 litre garden pump up sprayer --- remove the filter at the end of the dip tube.
(2) remove the complete sprayer assembly from the tube and connect the hose to suction tube on one of those engine cleaner/oil sprayer guns that
come as part of the accessory for hobby air compressors.
(3) Connect the compressor to the engine cleaner gun
(4) Thin waxoly with suitable thinners put in garden sprayer
(5) When ready to spary cavity pump up garden sprayer to give pressure feed to the engine cleaner spray gun.
[Edited on 9/9/08 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 9/9/08 by britishtrident]
 
Rescued attachment hozelock-4005-promo-5l-sprayer.jpg
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 01:29 PM |
|
|
Garden spray is connected to feed waxoyl under pressure to one of these
[Edited on 9/9/08 by britishtrident]
 
Rescued attachment spray-nozzle.jpg
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 02:39 PM |
|
|
Hmm interesting suggestions. Only issue is the thinning of the waxoil till it is suitable for spraying. I have experimented with white sprit, petrol
and cellulose thinners
The white sprit if use to that extent means it takes about 2 months to harden due to the very slow rate in which it evaporates, plus the coating
shrinks and cracks. Petrol is a bit better but the fumes and fire risk have to be experienced to be believed. Cellulose is much the same but cannot
possibly be done in a garage as you’d die and it damages most paint finishes. In the end I just tend to brush on 90% of it, oh and buy a BIG pack of
latex gloves as its nasty stuff to remove from your hands. Spraying the whole underside will coat the floor or ground very well and it’s a marine
poison so watch the drains.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
|
mr henderson
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 03:44 PM |
|
|
Don't be too sure about the trapped water causing further rust. To rust steel needs oxygen, and if the oxygen can't get through then it
won't rust
John
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 9/9/08 at 07:47 PM |
|
|
Waxoyl is good, but ideally you need a high pressure applicator gun.
If you want to stop existing rust in its tracks, try boiled old engine oil and this is then injected into any cavities when warm. Any old naval types
will confirm how effective it is in standing rigging and the like.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
|
|
|
