Morning All.

Excited but sadened all at the same time! Last night I filled the cooling system with the recommend coolant as Malc's instruction. I changed the oil filter and refilled the oil with the approved oil. I removed all the spark plugs and cleaned them as they are almost new by the look of them. I then turned the engine manually to distribute the oil around the cylinders etc. Now the moment of truth. I have joined the sidestand switch and the clutch swith. I have twisted the imobilizer together and joined the run switch together. I turned the key (ignition switch) and then shorted the start button wire and........ Nothing not even the fuel pump or starter. I will of cause being entering the garage again tonight however before I do is there anything obvious that I should be checking?

Cheers fellas

when the igintion comes on (before pressing start) you should here the fuel pump prime itself, it whirrs, then clicks a few times as it gets up to operating pressure.

Do you have your dash in? Do any lights come on?

Is the engine in gear? Some bike engines need the bike in neutral.

Some have a clutch switch too, has that been wired in?

The engine was in neutral. I am going to install the R1 clocks but have not extened this wiring yet so it is just plugged in on the loom resting on the tyre.

I have shorted the clutch switch anyway (providing I have correctly identified the wires!)

Knowing the fuel pump clicks in first is a help though. Do any lights on the dash come on?

If any of these switches are not shorted will the engine be 'dead' or will I still get the fuel pump etc?

which model r1 do you have?

The dash will give you error codes on the injection models which will reveal all.

If the dash isn't working you've probably not joined the ignition wires.

You can test it by unplugging the power and plugging back in. It should do a self test on power up, the reve counter should go up and back down again.

[Edited on 13/11/08 by ko_racer]

What have you done with the exup valve, on the bike it cycles when you first switch on to clean itself, there is a bypass which someone on here should be able to help with.....

If it doesn't turn over then you have a wiring problem. I have posted a 98 R1 wiring diagram on here if you do a search. What year of R1 engine do you have?

I have a 2006 R1. The Exup valve is still connected (leaving getting rid until I know it all works!)

Are the ignition wires the two larger red ones in the main switch 1 (on wiring diagram)?

I will try all tonight, just wanted to know the common faults that people have to give me a clue as to what to look for. It also helps know what should fire up and at what point! The info on the dash should help I will check that tonight as well. I will let you know.

Thanks again

Right, so you have the 5VY.

If you got the engine from Malc at yorkshire engines, he would have supplied the US loom and ecu which gets around the immobilisor problem.

Make sure you have the following connected:

Thick White Connector:
Brown/Blue
Solid Red (Ignition - On/Off )

Red Connector
Blue/Yellow
Blue/Black Join

Blue 6 Pin Connector
Red/White (Run Switch)
Red/Black Join

Black (Starter Switch)
Black/White Momentary Join

Blue Connector
Blue Black (Side Stand Switch)
Black Join

White 10 Pin Connector
Black/Yellow Join
Blue/Yellow (Clutch Switch)

Make sure the big Red Main fuse is OK (50A from memory)

Make sure the other fuses in the fuse box are ok.

Make sure the Crank Position Sensor on the right hand side of the engine below oil pump cover housing is ok and wiring is undamaged. The wiring for this is easily damaged if a bike is dropped and the motor won't run without this. The dash will tell you if any sensors have broken wires. The workshop manual gives you what all the codes mean. Let me know if you need a copy.

Make sure the tilt switch is the right way up if you've not glued it or replaced it with a resistor (470 ohm) (Blue to yellow/green) The switch is latching so once you've activated it it's on until you turn the ign off.

If you aren't using the fuel level sensor use a 470 ohm resistor on the Black to Green/White wires on the fuel pump connector. This will turn the light off on the dash.

The start inhibitor relay should click when you turn on the ignition and the fuel pump should prime for a few seconds.
The start inhibitor actually has two relays inside so both should click if all is ok.

As you have the dash it should be easy to track down what's stopping it from starting. I spent ages tracking mine down to a snapped wire on the crank pos sensor when I first started mine. Was obvious once I saw it though.

If you need any guidance drop me a mail at keith@koracing.co.uk, I'll give you my mobile no and talk you though it.

Keith you are a star!

I will try and get the checks sorted tonight before I give you an e-mail.

I thought the loom must be the US version as some of the coloured wires were confusing me!

I am by no means an expert on wiring so all this is good stuff.

Thanks again.

All the info you should need to get the engine running if that ^^^ doesn't help is here...

http://www.robcollingridge.com/kitcar/design/engine/electrics.html

adrian

malcs your man, very helpfull and he knows his beans

i am still trying to workout why its in the mnr section when you say your building an mk r on your profile

best regards

marc