Had my SVA test yesterday at beverley.

The tester was really nice and friendly, and was very helpful with whats what.

now ive got my list of things to fix it should be straight forward getting it all sorted. Heres the List:


1) o/s top suspension rod required locking ( forgot to tighten it up oops)

2) fuel neck restrictor required ( didnt fit one of those inserts)

3) Anti theft device ( distinct and separate) required ( i have an ignition key, and removable steering wheel, but he didnt accept that so need to fit a kill switch in the engine bay)

4) emissions outside required limits ( this was way out CO = 2.82 should be 0.3 or less , HC was 177, should be 200 or less , lambda was 0.923, should be between 0.97 and 1.03

5) Brake effort outside required limits ( rear brakes were a bit low. the fronts were fine, and handbrake was fine. he said the pedal felt good. the bias bar was giving as much rear bias as i could, but it still wasnt enough, so i think i need to re bleed the back brakes... they are a pain to bleed becuase they are upside down, so i have to remove them for bleeding)

6) brake bias bar not locked ( is is drilled ready for packing, and pinning, but didnt want to do this until the brakes measure up ok.

7) vehicle made no attempt to self centre 9 i pumped the tyres upto 30psi, but i will probarbly need to give it some toe out to fix this?)


everything else was fine
the calculation for the speedo was perfect. think i set it to -27 on the V4 healer. when my speedo was showing 35mph i was doing 33mph

the noise level recorded was 96db which i was very pleased with, so i shouldnt have any problems regarding track days

all in all i think it was a good pass, and i should be able to sort everything easy enough

Hi, with regards bleading the back brakes, I have seen for sale a large syringe with tube that you put on the bleed nipple and push the fluid through from the brake to resovoir.
I think this method might work for you without the need to remove the brakes.
You will need to watch the resovoir level as it will fill up, but less hassal than undoing the car I think.
Tony

quote:

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Originally posted by Davey D
Had my SVA test yesterday at beverley.

1) o/s top suspension rod required locking ( forgot to tighten it up oops)

- did they not let you tighten it at the centre?

3) Anti theft device ( distinct and separate) required ( i have an ignition key, and removable steering wheel, but he didnt accept that so need to fit a kill switch in the engine bay)

- what about your steering lock or did you not have one?

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quote:

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Originally posted by off-road-ham
Hi, with regards bleading the back brakes, I have seen for sale a large syringe with tube that you put on the bleed nipple and push the fluid through from the brake to resovoir.
I think this method might work for you without the need to remove the brakes.
You will need to watch the resovoir level as it will fill up, but less hassal than undoing the car I think.
Tony

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quote:

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Originally posted by omega0684

quote:

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Originally posted by Davey D
Had my SVA test yesterday at beverley.

1) o/s top suspension rod required locking ( forgot to tighten it up oops)

- did they not let you tighten it at the centre?

3) Anti theft device ( distinct and separate) required ( i have an ignition key, and removable steering wheel, but he didnt accept that so need to fit a kill switch in the engine bay)

- what about your steering lock or did you not have one?

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a good fail none the less, well done !!!!!!

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This tool sucks the fluid through the system

http://www.premiertools.co.uk/products/Mityvac_Automotive_Tune_Up_Kit_Cheaper_than_ebay_.htm

Bleeding the brakes won't help the brake balance -- something is wrong in the mechanical bits of the brake system.

(1) Check the balance bar has enough side to side clearance to pivot --- check the clearance between the yokes and the tube on the pedal -- it may need up to 1mm to work.
(2) Check you haven't wound the balance bar the wrong way !

(3) Check the handbrake cable isn't to tight -- as this stopd both the self adjusters and the hyraulic brake from working properly -- generally the hanbrake lever should move at least 40 to 60% of its travel before the brake bites hard.

(4) Do a visual check of the rear brakes and Clean the swept area of discs or drums with coarse abrasive paper.

Looks an easy enough list to fix well done

regards

Agriv8

Good luck with the re-test, definately looks the cat was not hot enough, I had to rev the nuts of it for a while and the co came right down (it was over 4 untill the cat warmed up) I'm back on Thursday with my car, I failed on brakes, as the pedal went spongy half way through the brake test, hopefully I'm sorted now with a rear dodgy master cylinder.

Andy

On my way home from the SVA test i went round a few local tuners for advise, including an approved power commander centre.

They told me what i needed to do to sort it. i then went to a local MOT centre with my laptop, and tweaked the fueling on the power commander lower, and the CO dropped to 0.25

after this the only reading that was a bit high was the Lambda, but we believe that is because the heat from my exhaust melted the probe, so we had to lash up a bit of pipe into the probe handle, but it wasnt a tight fit, so some air may have been getting in?

sorry about that dave.no real problems but it is still a bummer.the car looked good the other week.they may have to fail so many anyway..good luck with the retest..

Sorry to hear that it didnt pass Dave, all the best in getting it sorted. Got mine on Monday

sorry to dave. and the car did look great last weekend at mnr.good luck with the re test and any info would be great as mine is next thursday!