and none in this one....
mine is like the bottom one, i was going to put washers right up to the clevis and nuts after that with roll pins.
Or should i use tube or something so that the clevis can still rotate??
[Edited on 14/4/09 by Krismc]
Do i lock the Bias bar before or at the SVA??
Ive been told conflicting things, manual says you need to show a full range of movement.
How do you adjust the Bias Bar, and what bit do i lock, because if i add nuts and washers it doesnt move the same as with out the nuts and
washers?!!
Im totally confused and totally missing the point.
As far as I know, there is no requirement for it to be locked, but if it is not, then the brakes will be tested at both limits of the available adjustment - which of course means that they will fail.
Not strictly true I'm afraid. It's one of those that's open to interpretation. I had mine locked with a nut and rollpin through it but had allowed some movement to allow a small transfer of bias to the rears. The brakes were then tested at both extremes and both passed but I still failed as my bias bar was not considered to be locked.
2 ways to make life easy:
(expect that you will have to have it locked)
1) jack up 1 side of car and adjust until pedal pressure practically stops manula rotation of front but rear can still turn
2) buy a brake nipple pressure measure thungy - forget exact name - then put this on bleed nipples front and rear and keep adjusting til you get about
60/40 or 70/30 ish front/rear braking effect
then lock it off
have you got a dash adjuster knob?
No i just have the MNR bias bar fitted and 2 days to SVA!!
So, shall ill leave it as it is and take the locking bits with me??
how do you adjust the bar??
im still not sure i asked marc a while back and he said ah..you have fitted it wrong and he proceeded to fix my fault which took a while and i could
see what he did. that was 3 years back.
All i know at the moment is that if i take it down the street the fronts lock up if stick the pedal down to the floor.
you mean this ....
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3154A0A0.aspx
??
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=107315
The bias bar just alters the distance from the pivot point on the pedal to the master cylinder clevis pin. Turn the bar clockwise/anticlockwise until the front wheels are locked and you can just about turn the rear wheels with the brake pedal fully depressed. hope this helps Woz
How to set up here
Why is there washers in this one....
and none in this one....
mine is like the bottom one, i was going to put washers right up to the clevis and nuts after that with roll pins.
Or should i use tube or something so that the clevis can still rotate??
[Edited on 14/4/09 by Krismc]
there should be...............
Probabaly too short notice with your impending SVA, but I put a remote adjuster on mine, pre drilled for pinning at the test. He tested it through the full range of adjustment put it through the calculator and reported back that it was fine in all positions so didn't have to pin it - result !
cbs have a page with some advice page 9 of their catalogue. link
They also sell some bits for the job,
"BALANCE BAR SVA LOCKING KIT #BALLOC"link
If it locks at the rear after the front, and it doesn't bind then that is a good start. Spilt pins are inadequate, roll pins are needed.
Matt
so you wouldnt have to lock the bar with a remote adjuster, just the adjsuter its self(its a bit late for me)
So i definatly need washers between clevis and the pedal??
how do i get the clevis off?? do i have to screw the master cylinder push rod out of the clevis and then spin the clevis off the bar.
Im worried cause ive another 12 hr shift 2mora then ive got to do that!! great.
All you have to do is stop the threaded bar from turning ie split pins or roll pins
Washers nuts roll pins, as tight as possible so the bar doesnt turn no matter what?!?
Once your happy with the bias setting fit roll or split pins either side of each clevis pin dont pack the gap with washers/tube or you loose the bias effect
quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
Why is there washers in this one....
and none in this one....
mine is like the bottom one, i was going to put washers right up to the clevis and nuts after that with roll pins.
Or should i use tube or something so that the clevis can still rotate??
[Edited on 14/4/09 by Krismc]
On the top picture the bias bar is having no effect ie same bias front /rear to alter the bias there must be a difference between the pedal pivot point and each clevis pin centre line
quote:
Originally posted by wozsher
On the top picture the bias bar is having no effect ie same bias front /rear to alter the bias there must be a difference between the pedal pivot point and each clevis pin centre line
Ok now thats clearer on the picture couldnt see the gap between the washers and clevis pins. Cheers Woz
Ok, ill give that a go!