Finally Chassis No 40 is legal and soon to be on the road, after buying in march 2006 and taking around a year to complete then after a new diff, new engine, new ecu, new throttle boddies several thousand pound worth of repairs from 3 unscrupulous garages MNR finally got it on the road for me (for a few more £££ than i really wanted but hey)

Got a few bits to finish of and tidy up, hopefully a '11' plate will be winging its way to me soon.

So any help appriciated with the following...

1) Willwood clutch cylinder isnt very fast when returning and when pedal is pressed in fully the clutch jams in, have i got too much travel and should i fit a stoper on pedal and the speed of return might this just be because its all new and being sitting around for 4 years?

2) My nose cone is fixed solid at a few points but still seems a little wobbly in up and down direction - should i worry too much about it ?? any one got pics of mountings?? im sure i made brackets up for the bottom, but they have gone AWOL might try this again.

3) I burnt my foot back in 2009 while sitting in the car with engine running, anyone else with a 2000cc zetec, do you have overheating issues and does anyone else have any ideas for further cooling while at lights or the car sitting on drive? should i try to cool front of engine, rear or the rad more?

4) Can i seperate and remove the colapsable boss section from the steering wheel so that the steering wheel is further away from me?? has anyone else done this?

5) ive got a pipercross panel filter sticking out the side off the bonnet now that MNR fitted, do i need a cover over this or is the filter element alright blowing round in the wind and getting hit with crap??


And the final question .....if you still reading ...

6) got several million scratches on the Gel coat, plastic and the powdercoat anyone know what polish is best for scratches and if i can use wet and dry for the big ones?? i have no test spot so a guess might be dangerous.

edited.... ive managed to polish with my porter cable rotary and some turtle wax, and although scratches are there still, the orange glow hides them.













[Edited on 26/2/11 by Krismc]

[Edited on 26/2/11 by Krismc]

Well done, bet you are glad been wondering what happend to the car.

Congratulations on getting it completed.

Only one of the above i can probably help with is the scratches. I dropped a jack on the rear wheel arch which left a fairly deep graze. I started with 1200 wet and dry to remove the scratch, 1500 to remove some of the sanding marks, cutting compound (Farecla G3) then a polishing compound (Farecla G6 then G10). Its quite intensive work but definitely works just be careful the gel coat isnt too thin as the depth varies all over the place.

Adam

Congratulations on passing the iva kris,its about time mate.

As far as the cooling goes,you shouldnt need anything extra to keep it cool.Its probably
the bypass hose fitted wrong causing the overheating.
Mine is plumbed up correctly and doesnt need anything more than the cooling fan
set to come on at 105deg's then go off at 90degs.

Andy

[Edited on 26/2/11 by lotusmadandy]

Nice one! I have to admit i wondered whether you'd ever get there.

Right, I polished and cleaned the car today- see pics above, ive sorted most the wiring but i need a exhaust bung and a steering wheel boss as the one ive got doesnt fit, fixed the wobbly nose cone and sprayed thoose horible pipes out the side of the car.

Crikey in all the time I spent at MNR, I remember seeing Marc working on Carb mods for you, then seeing the car at MNR, then I saw it when my car died at Daytuner, I feel like I know your car really well :-)

Well done, hope it treats you well, it looks fantastic, great colour, for me it had to be either Green or Orange.

[Edited on 27/2/11 by The Venom Project]

Well done mate, I know you've had a proper marathon getting it through iva but I'm sure it'll be all worth while when you get the reg plate made up.

Take it easy

Cheers

Rich

Those inlet runners look loooooooooooooong

quote:

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Originally posted by theduck
Those inlet runners look loooooooooooooong

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I reckon if you spoke to Carbon Mods, they could make you a funky Air Intake cover to bolt off the back of the air filter and sit snug onto the bonnet. I reckon I would go down that route,

You need something like this...

(The opening still image shows the scoop quite well)

It's a pretty famous Caterham that makes pretty good power too... (well it did!)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V70i2KJOtZ0

Very Nice but what sort of cost??

and are you saying i should reduve the inlet lenght, and will it effect the tuning??

SBD do a box here but as above, why are the tubes soooo long?

This is only a personal view but I'd have 4 of something similar to this just sticking out but staying parallel with the bonnet.



Pipercross C0640 universal cone filter on eBay (end time 04-Mar-11 11:33:37 GMT)

Cheers

Rich

[Edited on 27/2/11 by RichardK]

The pipercross is my second airbox so id like to keep that for cost, i can cut the pipes back i suppose.

Plus can i get a box that takes the pipercross clips as the back plate has some clips holes

Inlet runner length should be tuned, and different lengths will see different torque/power results.

I use this example, as its what I know best. A Clio 172 (2.0 NASP) that is upgrade to ITBs will produce about the same peak power and torque in both short and long runner lengths, so for road cars, most go for the short runners as it is the most OEM install. However, if you make the longer runners fit, which is a more involved process including removing the slam panel, then you can bring peak torque in around 2000rpm ealrier while keeping it all the way to the redline.

On the flipside, if your runners are too long, then you may bring peak torque in too soon. If you use te below formul, and tuned rpm is the rpm at which you will make peak torque.

84,000 / tuned rpm = runner length.

The runner length is measured from the back of the intake valve to the start of the radiused entry of the runner. Also, as a general rule of thumb, the port cross section area should be ~83% of the valve area in the intake port and taper out at a 3.5 degree angle as it goes toward the entry of the runner.There are more exact formulas that use the compression ratio, engine displacement, and cam timing, but this one is close.


Hope that helps.

quote:

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Originally posted by Steve Hignett

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Replied!!!