Hi all.
sorry for the english...

I mounted my MNR pedal box but I don't understand how it works.
I understand that I can adjust brake front / rear bias by screwing more or less each of the threaded shafts to each m/c, but I don't understand the shaft that goes inside the pedal; why does it move?
If I apply the brake pedal both m/c aren't actuated at the same time...

Thanks,
Joao

The front/rear brake bias is'nt adjusted with screwing the 'threaded shafts' to each master cylinder - it's adjusted by turning the 'shaft that goes inside the pedal' thus offsetting the pressure applied to the 'threaded shafts' and altering the bias

BALANCE BAR ADJUSTING

HTH


Cheers

G

[Edited on 30/3/06 by Mr G]

try this thread to see how a bias box should be set up

Hi guys.
Thanks for the replies.

So If I read correctly, what makes the adjustment is the position of both clevis in relation to the centre of the shaft that goes inside the pedal, right?

So does the centre of the shaft has to be centred within the pedal?

Because mine (due, I suspect, to weld trespassing to the inside of the brake pedal tube for the balance bar) is offside to the front M/C.
Because of that, the left clevis is screwed all the way...


What does this pics looks like?
Left - front M/C
Reight - rear M/C
Left clevis screwed all the way


Thanks for all your input,
Joao
Rescued attachment 06-03-31_20-01.jpg

another one...

When pressed the pedal pushes the front M/C further than the rear M/C.

Joao

[Edited on 06/4/1 by JoaoCaldeira]
Rescued attachment 06-03-31_20-05.jpg

hi Joao

the pivot bearing should slide side to side in the pedal tube,

best regards

marc

Hi Marc.

Many thanks for your reply.
Seems that I have to undo the brake pedal and file the inside of the tube where the balance bar goes...

Joao

Does the pivot bearing need to be completely slack inside the tube?

Am I right in thinking the rod needs to be drilled and pinned for SVA? Does anyone have a pic of this done?

Rgds

Richie

the rod screws through a metal fitting with a circle on the top, see pic above. Mr SVA dolt me to drill through that downwards and put a roll pin in it. this stops the adjuster bar from turning.

Does it matter if the shorter threaded part is biased to the left or right of the pedal box? ie the front or back cylinder.

Surely this is what governs how much bias is available in each direction? Im assuming youd want the most available to the front and therefore the longer threaded portion offset to the left??

Thank Rich

[Edited on 8/5/06 by RichieC]

quote:

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hi Joao

the pivot bearing should slide side to side in the pedal tube,

best regards

marc

---

Yeh as was mine. Just needed a little work with a file to remove the welding on the inside.

Rich

I used the Dremel with the small circular sandpaper and cleaned both welds and part of the powedercoating.

Joao

quote:

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Originally posted by RichieC
Does it matter if the shorter threaded part is biased to the left or right of the pedal box? ie the front or back cylinder.

Surely this is what governs how much bias is available in each direction? Im assuming youd want the most available to the front and therefore the longer threaded portion offset to the left??

Thank Rich

[Edited on 8/5/06 by RichieC]

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hi ritchie yep thats the correct way round

I don't know whats wrong with mine (or the M/Cs) 'cause pushing the bias bar to either side makes no difference in which pedal goes first (always the front one).

I don't have any oil in it, but pushing (by hand) both of the M/C, I need to do a lot more pressure on the rear one to have the same effect...

What do you think about it? When filled with brake fluid will it normalise?

Thanks,
Joao

yep with fluid in it will be fine, would recommend not pushing pedal too many times with dry seals as it could damage them

best regards

marc

Have you got the cylinder actuator rods srewed into the pedals the same amount?

Rgds

Rich