Might be better if you dont do that, as the purpose of the forum is to help not only you, but others with the same problems..
thought there was a section about problems splitting the prop but cant find it now ????
basically undo the 17mm bolts 5 / 6 turns then use a lever to prise in between the bolt head and the uj ( being carefull not to damage the uj ) and
the prop will come in two
best regards
marc
Hi mark
YES IT WAS ME
STILL TRYING TO SPLIT IT.
Robert, I think you are deleting threads once you have your answer..
Might be better if you dont do that, as the purpose of the forum is to help not only you, but others with the same problems..
Sorry: I get the idea now.
How long do I leave it on or does it get deleted auto.
no need, old threads get archived eternally 
see how old this one is! 
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=53
[Edited on 4/4/06 by JoelP]
Finaly I split the prop. Well, thanks to a friend Alan. I can now finish the final stage of the kit.
mmmm, Lots of wires how do I join them together.
quote:
Originally posted by Robert Ryan
Finaly I split the prop. Well, thanks to a friend Alan. I can now finish the final stage of the kit.
mmmm, Lots of wires how do I join them together.
Just to bring this one back up. Ive slackened the 17mm head bolt in the centre of the prop but its not budging. Its bending a 12" tyre lever at
the moment.
Any more info about how to?
Thanks
Rich
cant say i have had a problem with these before from personal experiance but a couple of you have seemed to have difficulties, im assured by the propshaft company they are all assembled the same so not sure why some are hard to split ??? , could try packing behind the bolt so when you are undoing it forces the two apart ?? or some gentle heat to free it all up ( obviously being carefull not to scorch the bearing )
I've cheated. I've asked for mine to be supplied split
Definately the better option. Spent a good hour and a half trying to split it with various (undersized!) tools. Ended up at the garage with a larger
lever.
Unfortunately, its popped one of the balance weights off where the spot weld hadnt really penetrated the prop, so its currently in the workshop being
welded back on.
Having it supplied already split is by far and away the better option I think, just make sure the yokes all line up when you re assemble it.
Rgds
Rich
[Edited on 6/6/06 by RichieC]
The only thing I'd be worried about with the prop being sent split would be in which orientation they balanced it in.
Not to say that by them marking it to allow reassembly in the correct position would be a problem, but just open to error? Maybe I'm just
paranoid!
I'm getting mine sent whole and then I'll have a go at splitting it.
All you have to do now is wait for the 'help I can't split my prop' thread!
Chris.
Having got the prop back with the weights now fixed, I cant see how the prop goes into the tunnel.
The front section is dead easy but the longer rear section doesnt want to go in at all.
From the passenger side, Ive tried from the back but theres not enough room from diff flange to front hoop to get it turned and likewise from the
front, the prop rear flange cannot go through the chassis hoop.
Anyone found an easy way cos the way it seems at the moment it isnt going to go with the rear flange fitted.
Thanks
Rich
I had problems splitting at the centre. Best option was to split the rear UJ (using my trusty 1968 Escort Haynes Manual, it's a proper car
manual).
Steve.
Ah man youre kidding. Its split at the centre - splitting it again is going to be a total pain, already had problems with the weights.
Out of interest how do the UJs come apart? I assume you remove the circlips and knock the pivot through? I had a look at that option but it didnt
look like it wanted to come apart.
This is becoming a right PITA
Rich
you can split it at the uj end , but as per manual best to have prop in before diff
best regards
marc
quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
Ah man youre kidding. Its split at the centre - splitting it again is going to be a total pain, already had problems with the weights.
Out of interest how do the UJs come apart? I assume you remove the circlips and knock the pivot through? I had a look at that option but it didnt look like it wanted to come apart.
This is becoming a right PITA
Rich
quote:
Originally posted by marc n
you can split it at the uj end , but as per manual best to have prop in before diff
best regards
marc
Thanks Steve - Looks like Ill have to split it again so that will be handy. Is it just a case of removing the circlips and knocking the pivot from
the yokes? The pivot didnt look like it wanted to come out but it had been painted over so it might just need some percussion.
Can I ask Marc, how do you fit the prop into the tunnel after youve split it in the middle as described in the first post in this topic? Have the
chassis hoops changed?
I was following your suggestion to begin with.
Rgds
Richie
[Edited on 8/6/06 by RichieC]
Finally got the prop into the tunnel. I had to split the rear UJ. Not a particularly hard job but requires a bit of a hammer and caution.
Unfortunately, yet another prop weight has popped off. The spot welds havent penetrated the prop at all so they are just pulling off with your finger
nails behind them. Off back to the workshops unless I can trust some epoxy resin.
Also, I had difficulty drilling the holes down through the centre bearing plate and through the floor. Be careful if youve put your fuel/brake lines
underneath as its all very close. You cant really get in with a drill so the holes end up being slightly squint.
All in all a fairly dissapointing job. Would clearly be better fitting it from the rear with no diff in but Im not up for removing the diff at this
late stage. One to put down to experience but happy its behind me.
Richie
[Edited on 8/6/06 by RichieC]
quote:
Can I ask Marc, how do you fit the prop into the tunnel after youve split it in the middle as described in the first post in this topic? Have the chassis hoops changed?
erm, right so not like youd described in the first post of this thread?
In fact edited to add, I was trying it with the centre bearing removed however the longer rear section of the prop was too long to get turned between
the chassis hoops.
Only with the rear prop flange dismantled was there enough room to get it in and turned.
[Edited on 12/6/06 by RichieC]
it is supposed to come in from the back i.e no diff, bit rusty on exact specifics as we dont have many with no reverse
Hi Marc,
Yep understand that would be easier, however you require the measurement from engine to prop and from prop to diff before you supply a propshaft - I
assume this would neccesitate fitting the diff and engine then removing and refitting one or the other.
I would have been very happy to have fitted the prop before the diff but that wasnt an option.
Not being awkward - but surely something which could be looked at for future ?
Rich
[Edited on 12/6/06 by RichieC]
the only reason there is the need to do it is so that the tunnel has the one piece hoops for prop protection if it comes unattached ( and trust me they work at oulton prop bolts sheared on my car at 100 mph down the back stariaght ) only cauaulaty one flat brake pipe, so needfless to say i wont be changing the design, i would rather it was slightly more difficult to fit a propshaft than someone losing their legs
forgot to ask is the new clutch cable ok ??
best regards
marc
OK - Fair point, I never suggested putting safety second and the distance is only around 10mm too short which would have little or no effect on
safety.
The build manual should reflect it then if its now neccesary to fit the prop after the diff and the options open.
Or better still give the builder the option of having the prop supplied split. This however was of no benefit to me as it still didnt clear the hoop
in question.
Its just a nause to have to split it, split it again and run the risk of upsetting the balance.
To re emphasise the point, Im not being awkward but I do recall you saying youd be happy with any suggestions to help with future builds.
Surely fitting a prop from MNR to a chassis from MNR should be more straightforward?
[Edited on 12/6/06 by RichieC]
quote:
Originally posted by marc n
forgot to ask is the new clutch cable ok ??
best regards
marc
I can't remember very well that part of the build, but I followed the manual pretty close and I just split the prop in half and fed it from both
sides..., no problem at all...
Joao
I suppose my prop could just be a few mm longer and wont clear. Im pretty sure its the chassis hoop just in front of the handbrake which wouldnt
go.
It needed the rear prop flange dislocated to get it through as there was insufficient angle on the flanges to get through the bottom of the hoop.
Rich
Rich,
I'm with you, the prop was a B'std to fit.
As already said, I ended up splitting the rear UJ.
Is yours fitted now?
Steve.
Hiya mate, yeh its in now just need to re assemble the rear flange UJ in the tunnel - should be fun as it took some pretty heavy action to drive it
out.
I should have it bolted up and finished tonight so Ill report back later on.
Rgds
Richie
The prop is finally in.
One of the trickiest jobs of the build. The bolts which hold the sprocket adaptor on (R1) are very difficult to get to with the engine in so much
better to fit it prior to the engine.
Not had much of a chance to run it yet but it seems fine up on stands time will tell with regards to balance.
I had to cut a spanner down to tighten up the 17mm bolt as again, its incredibly tight to nip up once the prop is in place.
If anyone has any quieries with this one just shout cos I was somewhat in the dark with it.
Rgds
Rich
[Edited on 13/6/06 by RichieC]