Right i finally got the chance to remove the tub, fit and fit the clutch pedal!

Thing is the clutch and brake pedal dont sit the same distance from the foot well back wall - is this correct??,

If so which pedal should i line my accelerator up with!

If not then I think the brake pedal sticks out too way far but the only way to move it back is to cut the Cylinders threaded rods!

pic below


[Edited on 16/4/06 by Krismc]

Not sure about how they're supposed to be, but personally I'd prefer the brake pedal to stick forward most as it's the pedal you'll want to hit first in an emergency! Don't want to be aiming for the brakes and boot the go pedal instead.

Mine is similar bud, but by screwing in the master cylinders more you can pull the pedal back a bit.

I am currently looking at the throttle pedal positioning but without brake pressure, you can't really tell where you want to line the throttle pedal up for best heel and toe placement.

I think I may wait until I have the rolling chassis built up and bled brakes. Then I suppose it'll be easier to work this out?

quote:

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Mine is similar bud, but by screwing in the master cylinders more you can pull the pedal back a bit.

I am currently looking at the throttle pedal positioning but without brake pressure, you can't really tell where you want to line the throttle pedal up for best heel and toe placement.

I think I may wait until I have the rolling chassis built up and bled brakes. Then I suppose it'll be easier to work this out?

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Mine are all level but the 38 inside leg and the size 13's, means that I need all the space i can get after ensuring i had enough travel to activate front and rear braking systems fully.

Then re aligned my pedals which meant removing some of the tread bar on the master cylender push rods ( about 5 to 10mm possibly a bit more as i removed it in several attempts ) if you do this pop a nut on before cutting so when you wind the nut off it will clean the threads up.

regards

Agriv8

quote:

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Then re aligned my pedals which meant removing some of the tread bar on the master cylender push rods ( about 5 to 10mm possibly a bit more as i removed it in several attempts ) if you do this pop a nut on before cutting so when you wind the nut off it will clean the threads up.

regards

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Sounds like a good solution but by the looks of the picture you'd have to cut off a fair bit to make all the pedals level?

Any chance Marc has a take on this Ian?

My pedals will probably sit with the brake a little forward from the other two. Any problems with that?

A couple of pictures just uploaded to my archive. a little large but too piddled to start editing at this time of night ( ps no coments on the state of the garage as i have been gardening and visiting mother in law all BH).

Hard to tell from the photo's but clutch and accelerator probably 85 deg brake at 80 deg.

Ps i am running my accelerator at an angle following the angle of the interiaor pannel for foot space.

Sure marc will pass coment but I think he is having tomorow off by order of Mrs MNR.

Regards

Agriv8

i was going to post same question tonight
there is quite a lot of thread on slave cylinders spare to make pedals more level if its not possible to do it like this my knee will be very sore from bouncing of steering wheel every time i wanted to brake

Ta for that Ian. Much appreciated.

How much did you pay for the Super Quadro? I'm going to get that wheel... Looks so good and more leg space!

Chris.

P.S. What do you use the push buttons for on the wheel Ian? Indicators?

Chris.

Agriv8:

Is your left MC for rears?

Thanks,
Joao

yea ill wait to see what Marc reccomends! before i start hacking away!

An alternative to shortening the master cylinder push rods is to fit spacers/washers between the bulkhead and the master cylinders.

Mick

the ali bulk head and the pedal box are ressesed and fit snugly so i dont want to do that!

sorry for the delay chaps been hacking a hole in spare bedroom ceilling and fitting loft ladders all day .

left MC is front but brakes not fully bedded in jet ( cant get enoungh heat in the fronts to heat cycle them !! ). so dont referance bias bar settings

The steering wheel was bought as a package with quick release boss from MNR not sure of a price ( chris N will know ) ps if you go down the route your colum will have to come out to enable the shaft part to be tigged on ( marc did mine we trned down a peice of bar to fit in the center ).

RE The two buttons - one is horn ( post sva as it went to SVA with the sierra item on for horn and stering lock ).

The other is for the NOZ ( i wish - aint got the money at the moment ) likley to plumb the other button to high beam flash. both buttons are conect by a quick relaese connector for when the steering wheel is released.


regards Agriv8

Nice steering wheel iain...

Looks familiar