That rings a bell actually from when I visited MNR. So how does being rosejointed affect things? It's my understanding that it's better for track stuff but not so good on the road? I'm not really sure, can you explain in more layman's terms?
Cheers
I'm sure this has probably been asked before but I've done a search and I can't really find the answer.
What's the difference between the RT Inboard and the RT+ kits? There appears to be a difference of around £500. I've had a look at the kit
contents but I'm struggling to work it out.
Thanks
I don't know for certain but I think it is the fact that the + is fully Rosejointed...
Steve
Cheers Steve, I might have known you'd be able to help
That rings a bell actually from when I visited MNR. So how does being rosejointed affect things? It's my understanding that it's better
for track stuff but not so good on the road? I'm not really sure, can you explain in more layman's terms?
Cheers
Hi Magic Trevor,
Yep, Rosejointed suspension is probably too hard for road use (especially on UK roads!), I think the IB is probably a good compromise (can't tell
you how it drives yet tho...)
If you want to come over and take a look sometime, we're only up the road in Swindon - we're building an IB as well, with a Pinto
engine....
Cheers
Vince
doesn't the + use cortina fronts and the RT sierra?
RT inboard also uses front cortina uprights, its light(raceleda) and a lovely looking bit of kit.
Adam
I'm not sure if it's changed but the RT+ also had T45 instead of CDS for certain parts of the chassis.
I've got to be honest though, the rosejointed suspension isn't too hard. Do you honestly think those solid bits of rubber bush are going to
give that much?
RT+ has inboard suspension and rosejointed, and it does use the cortina uprights.
The IS is definately worth having, but the rose joints depend if you plan to drive it on the road or track.
RT Outboard suspension is sierra.
RT inboard & RT+ are cortina (=better geometry).
RT has polybushes (better on uk roads)
RT+ has rosejoints
RT+ has CDS rollbar (lighter & stronger)
mine is RT inboard but has CDS rollbar upgrade
I could change wishbones to rosejoints & it would be the same as RT+
quote:
Originally posted by GeorgeM
RT Outboard suspension is sierra.
RT inboard & RT+ are cortina (=better geometry).
RT has polybushes (better on uk roads)
RT+ has rosejoints
RT+ has CDS rollbar (lighter & stronger)
mine is RT inboard but has CDS rollbar upgrade
I could change wishbones to rosejoints & it would be the same as RT+
Nice one, cheers guys.
The car (when I eventually get round to getting one!!!) will be, at first, mainly on the road. I'd like to think that it will be half and half
but that might just be a pipe dream (T45 or CDS )... pun intended... I'll get my coat
Think the web site will show this ( or may be a sugeation to marc a comparison table )
Anyway just thougt I would add that.
Regards
Agriv8
Who told you that Cortina Uprights had better Geometry???
Steve
quote:
Originally posted by GeorgeM
RT Outboard suspension is sierra.
RT inboard & RT+ are cortina (=better geometry).
RT has polybushes (better on uk roads)
RT+ has rosejoints
RT+ has CDS rollbar (lighter & stronger)
mine is RT inboard but has CDS rollbar upgrade
I could change wishbones to rosejoints & it would be the same as RT+
Hi Mate!
If I were you I wouldn't go for the Rosejointed suspension package, but I would go for the Inboard and be confident that you were buying a good
all round car!
If it were me I would try and get an "in between scenario"!
I don't think there is a need for the entire package to be Rosejointed. It would be very simple to have 50% or maybe less that would achieve the
same results. I think this would benefit in two ways, one would be cost and the second would be longevity of components...
Steve
quote:
Originally posted by Mag1caltrev0r
Nice one, cheers guys.
The car (when I eventually get round to getting one!!!) will be, at first, mainly on the road. I'd like to think that it will be half and half but that might just be a pipe dream (T45 or CDS
Yes I did mean T45 Rollbar, just tired! - old age
inboard doesn't have to have raceleda uprights, cortina
ones or MNR's own can also be used, with or without the
raceleda hubs, discs & calipers.
George
quote:
Originally posted by GeorgeM
Yes I did mean T45 Rollbar, just tired! - old age
inboard doesn't have to have raceleda uprights, cortina
ones or MNR's own can also be used, with or without the
raceleda hubs, discs & calipers.
George
I agree, i've got mnr uprights, but otherwise
all raceleda. If I did it again i'd have the
raceleda uprights as well
George
quote:
Originally posted by GeorgeM
I agree, i've got mnr uprights, but otherwise all raceleda.
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
quote:
Originally posted by GeorgeM
I agree, i've got mnr uprights, but otherwise all raceleda.
Except one idiot who had Cortina... i.e. me.
What's wrong with cortina uprights? I have a pair all cleaned up and painted waiting for the big day.
nothing at all - not as light as the raceleda ones I belive, the raceleda uprights have a geomitry flaw removed ( a very very minor one)
regards agriv8
nothing wrong with std cortina uprights, just hard to get hold of , we used to stock pins off the shelf to adapt to our wishbones but now they are
made individually as we dont see many usable cortina uprights these days,
we tend to use either our own version or the raceleda ones as we can use different hubs and steering arms to alter scrub and ackerman
cheers
marc
Thanks, everyone for your help, I guess I'm probably right to go for the RT Inboard.
Marc/Chris, as Agriv8 has suggested, maybe a comparison chart would be a useful addition to the website? Or you could have like many car
manufacturers have and list what the kit has 'in addition' to the cheaper kit?