Krismc
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:02 PM |
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Brake Bias Bar and SVA
Do i lock the Bias bar before or at the SVA??
Ive been told conflicting things, manual says you need to show a full range of movement.
How do you adjust the Bias Bar, and what bit do i lock, because if i add nuts and washers it doesnt move the same as with out the nuts and
washers?!!
Im totally confused and totally missing the point.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:12 PM |
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As far as I know, there is no requirement for it to be locked, but if it is not, then the brakes will be tested at both limits of the available
adjustment - which of course means that they will fail.
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Richard Quinn
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:16 PM |
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Not strictly true I'm afraid. It's one of those that's open to interpretation. I had mine locked with a nut and rollpin through it
but had allowed some movement to allow a small transfer of bias to the rears. The brakes were then tested at both extremes and both passed but I still
failed as my bias bar was not considered to be locked.
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richardh
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:24 PM |
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2 ways to make life easy:
(expect that you will have to have it locked)
1) jack up 1 side of car and adjust until pedal pressure practically stops manula rotation of front but rear can still turn
2) buy a brake nipple pressure measure thungy - forget exact name - then put this on bleed nipples front and rear and keep adjusting til you get about
60/40 or 70/30 ish front/rear braking effect
then lock it off
have you got a dash adjuster knob?
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Krismc
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:41 PM |
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No i just have the MNR bias bar fitted and 2 days to SVA!!
So, shall ill leave it as it is and take the locking bits with me??
how do you adjust the bar??
im still not sure i asked marc a while back and he said ah..you have fitted it wrong and he proceeded to fix my fault which took a while and i could
see what he did. that was 3 years back.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:44 PM |
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All i know at the moment is that if i take it down the street the fronts lock up if stick the pedal down to the floor.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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MikeR
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:50 PM |
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you mean this ....
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3154A0A0.aspx
??
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richardh
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:57 PM |
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linky
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=107315
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wozsher
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 08:04 PM |
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The bias bar just alters the distance from the pivot point on the pedal to the master cylinder clevis pin. Turn the bar clockwise/anticlockwise until
the front wheels are locked and you can just about turn the rear wheels with the brake pedal fully depressed. hope this helps Woz
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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wicket
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 08:06 PM |
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How to set up here
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Krismc
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 08:15 PM |
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Why is there washers in this one....
and none in this one....
mine is like the bottom one, i was going to put washers right up to the clevis and nuts after that with roll pins.
Or should i use tube or something so that the clevis can still rotate??
[Edited on 14/4/09 by Krismc]
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richardh
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 08:21 PM |
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there should be...............
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Wheels244
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 08:27 PM |
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Probabaly too short notice with your impending SVA, but I put a remote adjuster on mine, pre drilled for pinning at the test. He tested it through the
full range of adjustment put it through the calculator and reported back that it was fine in all positions so didn't have to pin it - result !
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 08:36 PM |
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cbs have a page with some advice page 9 of their catalogue. link
They also sell some bits for the job,
"BALANCE BAR SVA LOCKING KIT #BALLOC"link
If it locks at the rear after the front, and it doesn't bind then that is a good start. Spilt pins are inadequate, roll pins are needed.
Matt
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Krismc
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 08:37 PM |
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so you wouldnt have to lock the bar with a remote adjuster, just the adjsuter its self(its a bit late for me)
So i definatly need washers between clevis and the pedal??
how do i get the clevis off?? do i have to screw the master cylinder push rod out of the clevis and then spin the clevis off the bar.
Im worried cause ive another 12 hr shift 2mora then ive got to do that!! great.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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wozsher
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 08:50 PM |
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All you have to do is stop the threaded bar from turning ie split pins or roll pins
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Krismc
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 09:07 PM |
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Washers nuts roll pins, as tight as possible so the bar doesnt turn no matter what?!?
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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wozsher
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 09:18 PM |
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Once your happy with the bias setting fit roll or split pins either side of each clevis pin dont pack the gap with washers/tube or you loose the bias
effect
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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stuart_g
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 09:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
Why is there washers in this one....
and none in this one....
mine is like the bottom one, i was going to put washers right up to the clevis and nuts after that with roll pins.
Or should i use tube or something so that the clevis can still rotate??
[Edited on 14/4/09 by Krismc]
The top picture is my pedal box.
There are washers either side to stop the clevis from binding on the pedal.
There is a setup guide on the rally design web site which explains how to set it up.
I didn't lock my bias bar before SVA I just took the nuts pre drilled then let them test the bias, once they said it was ok I put the nuts on
and drilled the bar itself through the pre drilled holes in the nuts then put in roll pins.
You have to get the clevis as close to the pedal as you will upset the bias when you press the pedal everything will move to one side which is not
right. The bias is done by the bearing inside the pedal being moved when you turn the threaded bar NOT sliding to one side when you press the
pedal.
I think you will find roll pins are the only method the SVA examiner will accept. split pins are not permanant in the eyes of the examiner.
[Edited on 14/4/09 by stuart_g]
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wozsher
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 09:44 PM |
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On the top picture the bias bar is having no effect ie same bias front /rear to alter the bias there must be a difference between the pedal pivot
point and each clevis pin centre line
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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stuart_g
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 10:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by wozsher
On the top picture the bias bar is having no effect ie same bias front /rear to alter the bias there must be a difference between the pedal pivot
point and each clevis pin centre line
I think you will find that the bias is adjusted by moving the spherical bearing to one side inside of the tube on the pedal by turning the threaded
bar, each clevis should be the same distance from the pedal tube. you can also adjust the length of the master cylinder pushrod as in the top picture
from the rallydesign web site. This is exactly how mine is setup. There is enough clearance between the washers and the clevis's to allow for
the pivot of the threaded rod and the washers also stop the corners of the clevis's from being able to get caught up on the pedal tube as you
have nothing stopping the whole bias bar from moving sideways.
The bottom picture again from the rallydesign web site clearly shows how not to have the clevis's or are rallydesign wrong aswell.
[Edited on 14/4/09 by stuart_g]
[Edited on 14/4/09 by stuart_g]
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wozsher
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| posted on 15/4/09 at 08:56 AM |
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Ok now thats clearer on the picture couldnt see the gap between the washers and clevis pins. Cheers Woz
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Krismc
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| posted on 16/4/09 at 06:40 AM |
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Ok, ill give that a go!
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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