disco_biscuit
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 07:36 AM |
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Vortx a few questions
Hi Guys, just bought myself a used Factory built R1 Vortx, its got a few things that need sorting maybe you can help.
1. The steering column has alot of end float and the steering wheel moves in and out and hits the paddles, so its difficult to engage gears
sometimes.
2. The brake lights only come on when you really press hard on the brakes, is this normal? or can i get a more sensitive pressure switch?
3. The diff oil seals are leaking, easy fix?
4. The exhaust can has cracked, and the mounts are pulling through the floor? is this also a design fault that i need to mod?
5. How do i check the oil level?
Thanks
Roy
[Edited on 1/5/09 by disco_biscuit]
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richardh
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 07:47 AM |
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hi Roy. good choice
1) i drilled and split pinned mine where it has the extender bit in the engine bay. stops it moving but the pin is thin enough to break under pressure
of accident
2) has yours got the 4 way split with the switch on top? it might be worth replacing
3) havent done it on my mnr but on my old robin hood it was easy
4) mine did that too and needed re-inforced a bit on both sides. my eghaust is a long one from mnr and is really heavy.
5) mine is a 2000 carb one and the oil level is a glass window toward the nose cone low down by the clutch arm
should be half way up glass window
others may have other ideas etc but these are mine
enjoy
Time for a change!
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nick205
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 07:51 AM |
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Welcome along to the forum 
No.2 will almost certainly be due to a hydraulic brake switch in the brake line rather than an electronic switch at the pedal - very common set-up on
these cars. Firstly make sure that the switch is bled of any air as this will make it slower to react. Also if it's fitted in the rear brake
lines you might benefit from moving it to the front brake lines where there is generally more pressure ealier in the pedal travel. Alternatively, fit
an electronic switch that works off the brake pedal and re-route the wiring accordingly (just leave the hydraulic switch in place).
No.3 Do you have push-in or bolt in driveshafts? If push-in you'll need to removed the driveshaft by undoing the rear hub carrier and sliding
it out (not sure on bolt in shafts). The seals themselves prise out relatively easily with a screwdriver and OEM replacements from Ford are about £12
a pair IIRC. The new ones need to be greased and then knocked gently and squarely into the diff body before refitting the driveshafts.
A Haynes manual for the Sierra donor car might be a useful purchase for some of the maintainance work required.
Can't help on the other bits though.
HTH
Nick
ETA...
Another thread on the diff oil seal replacement query which gives some part numbers and prices for ref.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=112366
[Edited on 1/5/09 by nick205]
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coozer
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 08:56 AM |
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3. If push in shafts (drum brakes?) they just pull out. Lobro bolt ons do as well, just need a bit more leverage.
4. Drilled the mounting hole nearest the exhaust through the chassis rail and made the inboard one with big spreaders.
Good choice and 
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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disco_biscuit
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 09:41 AM |
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Thanks for all the info guys 
You may know the car its orange with a screen used to belong to Chris Burgess.
I'll look at the exhaust tomorrow, as it keeps hanging very low.
The diff has push in driveshafts and rear disc's
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richardh
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 10:20 AM |
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oddly i spoke to chris about that screen yesterday..................................
Time for a change!
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