RickRick
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posted on 9/10/13 at 10:48 AM |
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Looks quite close to what i've achived, maybe a little bit further from the back of the rad to the duct on the caterham one, and it's
enclosed at the top, but the rad in the mnr is up at the top of the nose already, leaving a nice space for airflow into the engine bay
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bi22le
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posted on 9/10/13 at 11:58 AM |
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I have just done some lunch time googling on this and have come across this interesting blog entry. Its about kit planes but the detail is
relivent.
http://silencetwisterbuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/radiator-theory.html
Have a read if your considering doing this.
It has made me think about leaning my radiator backwards \ forwards, doing this will allow me to reduce the sixe of the inlet \ exit duct and
therefore get better flow for the oil rad as it will have its own cold air.
The question is, do I have the space? Probably not!!
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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RickRick
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posted on 9/10/13 at 12:22 PM |
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Hmmm it would be really quite easy for me to lean the top of my rad forward, which would also mean air coming out the back would be at less of an
angle to the ducting, longer rubber hose, and some threaded bar are all i'd need i think, i could even lift the bottom up a little to leave
more space for cold air into the engine bay.
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40inches
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posted on 9/10/13 at 12:33 PM |
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Radiators can be angled very steeply, as long as the air is ducted through them. Ultima rad for example
http://www.macgracing.co.uk/ultima_build3.shtml
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loggyboy
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posted on 9/10/13 at 01:10 PM |
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The Elise's Rad is completely horizontal, but as said above you need to get the ducting right.
Mistral Motorsport
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bi22le
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posted on 9/10/13 at 06:01 PM |
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Going back to OP the issue is with inboard shocks.
I wonder if mounting the rad at an angle is even possible. The striker is small and has a diagonal brace bar which means its very difficult to get any
kind of angle.
Oh I wish I had time to go outside and spend the evening with a beer working this out on my car.
So much fun!!!
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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eddie99
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posted on 9/10/13 at 06:25 PM |
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Just to add into this convo.
The CSR supposedly reduced alot of lift adding in this mod.
We tried it on the Pulse and completely ducted out the back of the rad up top and found the car struggled too cool as well. Our theory is although the
radiator ducting was working well, it then meant that it restricted any air getting into the engine bay and in turn would do more harm to cooling than
good.
This might have affected us even more as we have no other ducts into engine bay (Flat floored etc..) But bear this in mind if you guys choose to do
the mod.
PS. We did it with inboard dampers and theres still a fair bit of room.
[Edited on 9/10/13 by eddie99]
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
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RickRick
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posted on 14/10/13 at 12:02 PM |
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i'd have to lean the top of the rad forwards, no room to lean it back
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Sierra
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posted on 7/1/14 at 12:48 AM |
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Can you not just cut a vent in the nose cone and leave the radiator without the ducting. Then hot air will escape out the vent and at the same time
air coming through the front of the nose can get to the engine through gaps between side of rad and nose.
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