Markyb13
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| posted on 11/4/13 at 08:13 PM |
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IVA FAIL !!
BUT NOT A BAD ONE......................I think
I had my IVA today at Edmonton and to be fair our tester was very helpful and tried his best to help get through the test with a pass, unfortunately
one of the fails was the emissions, even though he gave us a couple of attempts we still couldn't get it through, the main fail points were:
Directions indicators - too many!, solution- disconnect the ones in the wing mirrors so they don't work. NOW DONE.
Fog Light switch - illuminates as do the other buttons when lights on but no tell tale to show when fog light has been left on, rewire switch so
only illuminates when switch is on. NOW DONE.
Rear Fog Light - On the wrong side, should be on the drivers side not the passengers (What a twat for getting that wrong!).
A few cables/hose need cable tying up to avoid potential future chaffing. NOW DONE.
Drivers side front brake - Locks up much sooner than the left front, this was out side the tolerances allowed - not sure on the reason for this, the
pads and discs are fairly unused only one track day last year, will check the Willwood callipers are working correctly if not maybe check the pads
& disc's ???? ANY IDEAS WOULD BE WELCOME !
Emissions - FAST IDLE Co 1.33, LAMDA 0.966 (needed to be 0.97-1.03!), HC 48, NATURAL IDLE 1.52 - Gutted about failing this bit as it was the bit
I've been dreading. I had taken the car to my local MOT test station and passed the MOT emissions test twice, the cat may have been a lot hotter
(after 2 hours of fiddling with the power commander) but the reading then were, FAST IDLE Co 0.01, HC 11, LAMBDA 1.02, NATURAL IDLE 0.00.
the other bits should be done this weekend (not sure about the brake thing) but I am concerned about the emissions, re test is booked for the 16th May
REALLY REALLY don't want to fail again...... need to get her out in the sun this year (if we have any). Looks like she's going to have to
be trailered to Stoneleigh instead of driven.
Overall I didn't think it was a bad fail but still frustrating.
I've put a couple of photos in my archive from today, not great taken on my phone in the rain! haven't worked out how to put them in this
bit yet.
[Edited on 11/4/13 by Markyb13]
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Mr C
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| posted on 11/4/13 at 08:30 PM |
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A good fail if there is such a thing, mine failed with a similar list on 19th March at Gillingham. but passed on the 5th April, all in all a stressful
event but the testers were fair and helpful as yours were. I know they do get a bit of a slating at times but I can only speak as I found.
Bandage the Cat if not already done and really heat it up prior to testing, I ran mine till the cooling fans kicked in a couple of times and held it
on a couple of thousand revs to really get hot. (car engine)
I had a problem with the rear caliper advised to remove reset the pistons and apply footbrake a few times to re-adjust.
All the best with the retest and happy motoring.
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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Markyb13
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| posted on 11/4/13 at 08:38 PM |
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Thanks
I,ll try as you have suggested with the brake caliper and hope that sorts it like it did for you.
Cheers
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Wheels244
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| posted on 11/4/13 at 09:20 PM |
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Have you got all of the air out of the offending caliper - might be worth bleeding again.
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DRC INDY 7
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| posted on 11/4/13 at 09:21 PM |
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Drivers side front brake - Locks up much sooner than the left front, this was out side the tolerances allowed - not sure on the reason for this, the
pads and discs are fairly unused only one track day last year, will check the Willwood callipers are working correctly if not maybe check the pads
& disc's ???? ANY IDEAS WOULD BE WELCOME !
Have you got the camber and the tracking set up reason for saying is my ns front used to lock due to the camber being out
But since i have set it up i have no problems
https://www.facebook.com/groups/462610273778799/
Puddle Dodgers Club
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britishtrident
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| posted on 11/4/13 at 09:27 PM |
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If one brakes locks up before the other and everything is in good order then the problem is corner weights.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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rodgling
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| posted on 11/4/13 at 10:03 PM |
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Brake issue could be camber - if one wheel is heavily cambered and one isn't, the cambered one will lock up first. I corrected this problem on
my car the other day and it made a big difference.
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Markyb13
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 posted on 12/4/13 at 06:27 AM |
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It could the camber, I had played around with camber settings when trying to get it to self centre, so it is definitely not set up how I would want it
when driving on the road at the moment, but now it's passed the self centring test I can adjust them back, I'll check this at the weekend
along with checking the calipers etc..
Thanks for the suggestions
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Slimy38
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 07:02 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Markyb13
It could the camber, I had played around with camber settings when trying to get it to self centre, so it is definitely not set up how I would want it
when driving on the road at the moment, but now it's passed the self centring test I can adjust them back, I'll check this at the weekend
along with checking the calipers etc..
Thanks for the suggestions
I take it they won't recheck the self centring when you take it back for the retest?
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40inches
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 07:13 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by Markyb13
It could the camber, I had played around with camber settings when trying to get it to self centre, so it is definitely not set up how I would want it
when driving on the road at the moment, but now it's passed the self centring test I can adjust them back, I'll check this at the weekend
along with checking the calipers etc..
Thanks for the suggestions
I take it they won't recheck the self centring when you take it back for the retest?
No reason to, a retest is just for failed items, otherwise they would test the whole car again, not just random isolated items
Famous last words 
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mark chandler
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 08:06 AM |
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Corner weights is probably the issue, camber would have to be badly out between sides for this to affect the contact patch on the rollers but if one
front wheel is taking all the weight it will definitely lock the other.
If you don not have scales jack the rear up in the middle, have someone sat in the drivers seat and make sure the front chassis is horizontal to the
ground, adjust by twiddling the spring seats then repeat swapping front to back.
Regards Mark
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cps13
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 12:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Wheels244
Have you got all of the air out of the offending caliper - might be worth bleeding again.
Not sure that would be the problem if it is binding earlier. Just a thought but... you may be looking at the wrong caliper?
If one is binding ok but early, are you sure its not a case that the other one isn't binding correctly? Maybe that has an air lock or bigger
issue.
Just a thought. Slap me if i'm wrong.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 02:25 PM |
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One thing it won't be is air in the brake system, it was different in the days of drum front brakes air could cause a front brake to snatch
but not on front disc brakes with a front rear hydraulic split.
Check the pads and calliper pistons are moving freely but unless the brakes are pulling to one side in a moderately firm stop then the premature
locking on one wheel is down to corner weights.
[Edited on 12/4/13 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Agriv8
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 02:32 PM |
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My thoughts are Air in the system, weeping Brake joint or kincked fletened brake pipe
ATB agriv 8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 02:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
Brake issue could be camber - if one wheel is heavily cambered and one isn't, the cambered one will lock up first. I corrected this problem on
my car the other day and it made a big difference.
Camber alone won't have that big an effect but because of scrub radius adjusting camber by altering the top wishbone length has an effect on
corner weight
i.e. reducing negative camber on one wheel will increase the corner weight on that wheel.
It will also move the scrub radius on that wheel outwards which will increase the steering moment on that wheel caused by braking force reaction.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Markyb13
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 08:38 PM |
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The tester confirmed that he would only be checking the items failed on the original test.... I think unless it was some thing blatantly obvious that
you had changed since the first test ie. removed the padded steering or something like that, that might upset him.
When he weighed the car without me in it the front was pretty much even on both sides, funny enough the rear was slightly different from one side to
the other, he said the scales were really made for vehicles much heavier than a 600kg bike engined car?
I'm going to check the calipers, bleed the brakes again and check the pipes again for any kinks, I couldn't see any and nor could he, and
he went over every thing very thoughly, I'm sure by checking everything I've got to find something somewhere.... The thing that concerns
me most is the bloody emissions test again really need to try and find some where who really knows what their doing 
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/4/13 at 09:12 PM |
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I have more than 4 decades of working vehicle brakes covering everything from 1920s cars with rod operated contracting band brakes to modern ABS so
you can take my word for it
(1) Its is not air in the system
(2) It is not a crushed pipe
(3) It is not a weeping joint
It could be a sticking pad or seized piston in a calliper - easy enough to check just pull one pad at a time put a lever in in place of the and
get an assistant to gently work the pedal.
It is most likely corner weights it fits with everything you have described, corner weights should be set with the driver onboard, the wheel that
is locking first and the diagonally opposite rear are not carrying enough load when the driver is onboard. The stiffer the spring rates employed the
more critical setting the corner weights become.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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stevegough
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| posted on 13/4/13 at 07:29 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Markyb13
I've put a couple of photos in my archive from today, not great taken on my phone in the rain! haven't worked out how to put them in this
bit yet.
[Edited on 11/4/13 by Markyb13]
Adding pics to the thread is easy, open your archive (use a second tab on your browser and have two Locostbuilder pages open at once if you are going
to post a few).
Next, select the pic you want in your archive, find the 'forum code' window at the top, highlight all the letters and symbols etc. Then
copy it (Ctrl C). Next, move back to the post you are typing and copy (Ctrl V).
Good work with the car, it looks a treat! Keep at it with the IVA, you'll be driving it to Stoneleigh with a bit of luck, you've still
got 4 weeks!
 
Description
 
Description
 
Description
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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Markyb13
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| posted on 13/4/13 at 06:19 PM |
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Thanks for the help re getting the photos on here, hopefully this will work, here are a couple of snaps from the day.
[img] [/img]
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Markyb13
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| posted on 13/4/13 at 06:27 PM |
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Apologies they seem to be a bit BIG !!! As you can see we had to remove th rear diffuser during the test so he could examine everything.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 13/4/13 at 06:47 PM |
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Looks a nice build, out of interest what wing mirrors are they?
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Markyb13
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| posted on 13/4/13 at 07:03 PM |
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I think they are bike mirrors, e bay special, they have indicators built into them, which I quite liked, can't them in these photos, saying that
we've had to disconnect them for the re test as we had too many, got some built into the front wheel arches as well.
Here's a link to the eBay listing MOTORCYCLE FAIRING MOUNTED MIRRORS WITH INDICATORS FOR Honda CBF1000 | eBay
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cjwood23
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| posted on 1/7/13 at 02:22 PM |
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Nice build!
Good luck with the retest.
Whats' the screen on the passenger side in the cockpit?
______________________
Chris
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Markyb13
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| posted on 1/7/13 at 03:30 PM |
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Hi Chris
She past her re test in May and is now road legal:-)
The screen is linked to a colour rear view camera,more for passengers on track days really, not really nessersary but I like it and it actually works
quite well.
Cheers
Mark
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cjwood23
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 12:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Markyb13
Hi Chris
She past her re test in May and is now road legal:-)
The screen is linked to a colour rear view camera,more for passengers on track days really, not really nessersary but I like it and it actually works
quite well.
Cheers
Mark
Congrats on the pass!
Thanks for the info - quite a good idea!
______________________
Chris
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